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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reseaching this for days and weeks now. I have done so much research my head is starting to spin. I need to know for a high reving, high boost 4.6 that is a daily driver i need to know what is the STRONGEST rod PERIOD. I was looking at Carrillo H-beam rods. I also was looking at Titanium. Is Carrillo the best rod manufacture. They gave me a quote of 2700 for the set of 8. O my gosh yes i know its expensive. IF these are BULLETPROOF i don't mind spending that. When this motor goes together it will not come apart. i was looking to run very very low boost for daily driver setting and upwards of 18-20 psi for track and racing. It is also to point out that this will be probably a bored teksid that will be re-seleved to 3.7 and with the stock stoke. Also can you use 7/16 bolts? Thanks i need concrete help! Thanks!
 

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that kind of boost are you running because 18-20lbs isnt **** lol...and how high are you trying to spin it? you can only spin to about 7200 when boost on the stock computer..

need more info but on what you are doing manley hbeams will probably be just fine..

what your goal with the car hp and track wise?
 

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What do you consider "high reving, high boost?" Any billet rod will work and cost a lot less than Carrillo's or a Ti rod.

...and how high are you trying to spin it? you can only spin to about 7200 when boost on the stock computer..
01 and up computers are done at 7200, 96-99 computers are good for well into the 8k range.
 

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Oliver Billet Rods
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
i was hoping to be able to spin 8000 at the track but that would be at the track only. I mean this will be driven but others than me (on occasion). Well and the reason i was keeping the boost down is i want this motor to last....a long time. i mean i want this motor to live past 100,000 miles. I am not trying to be an amateur i've done a lot of research on this topic but does the titanium rods make up for the strength deficit they have compared to H-beam rods? I figured almost 9 grand in the motor alone. I mean price no object what is the strongest and most reliable rod?

I would like to make 800 under high boost (21-25) on race gas. And honestly i would like to have around 400-600 at 12psi on a daily driver tune. I will also have an 87 tune with like 8 psi i think to maybe make it more drivable (around 350 at that point). Am i making any sense? This is my first big build. I want the best of both worlds...in fact i'll probably have a 2.73 gear in the back so i can cruse completely out of the turbo and try to achieve mid-high 20's.
 

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An 87 octane tune will have worse driveability; no need for it.

Oliver Billets will be fine as 8k rpm and 21-25psi both aren't considered that high for a well built 4v. However, a combo with that much boost and RPM will not last for 100k miles.

Ti rods are overkill and a waste of money at your intended power level.

A 3.27 gear will perform much better than a 2.73.

Build it with the right components and you can get great pre-boost power and driveability along with high hp. 9.5:1 CR, stock cobra cams, ported heads and intake will easily get you the power and driveability you want. Oh, a 3.7" bore engine doesn't like high boost; not enough meat between the cylinders so I recommend you keep the stock bore or lower the boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
How about lowering the boost and maybe a shot of nitrous instead? As well i really need to know i have only heard amazing things about Carrillo rods...will it help longevity?

O and also i want this to be SO FAR OVERKILL...that when i throw what i want at it it will be like...is that all?

Also i thought that the big bore helps unshroud the valves to help it breath better?

I keep editing this because honestly even at the track i probably won't rev it past 7200 like 02 Gt said. Honestly i just want something that will produce 400+ hp but with a bottom end that will survive nuke...and if i wanted crank the boost of for a cocky LS1 or maybe even the occasional Vette Z06 ;) It should be said i will probably have 4 tunes. One for pump gas, one for an idiot tune (DETUNE IT SEVERELY), one for race gas, and one for nitrous.
 

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The bigger bore does unshroud the valves but with boost it doesn't matter. Worry more about the pistons than the rods. The Oliver billets hold up to well over 1000rwhp and 9000rpm. The pistons however are going to be much harder to make last.

As for the nitrous, dual power adders is a recipe for burnt pistons. Stick with one and make it efficient.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well then maybe i'll stick with a cobra crank to save some money. I was looking at a billet crank as well.
Can anyone answer my question about steel vs billet vs titanium? I really want rods that are going to take everything i throw at them. If it makes any difference i think im going to do torque plates as well.

I was looking at CP pistons as well i would like a 9.0:1 compression ratio.

This is a complex build. I know the Carrillo rods are expensive and the CP pistons are as well but if we are talking about outright strength would titanium handle what i want with lower reciprocating mass?

Also i will probably be using a main cap griddle i know its not strictly necessary but again i want this to be bulletproof
 

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Sounds like a build funded by hopes and dreams... Na svt pretty much just gave you the best advice anyone is going to give you and it almost looks like you ignored much of what he said. Oliver Billet Rods are going to take anything you throw at them. I would personally recommend JE Pistons. I hope you have an aftermarket transmission in mind for this build. No stock transmission is going to like shifting at 8k+ rpms...
 

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The stock crank will take anything you can throw at it. The Ti rods are a waste of money at that low power level. The oliver Billets will take more than you can throw at them. Also, stop worrying about the rods, the weak link at 800 will be the pistons. I recommend Diamond or JE. The pistons will need to be coated if you want them to last.

I understand wanting to "overengineer" the combo so it will last, but their are better things to spend your money than Ti rods.

Torque plates are SOP when boring an aluminum block.
 

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The stock crank will take anything you can throw at it. The Ti rods are a waste of money at that low power level. The oliver Billets will take more than you can throw at them. Also, stop worrying about the rods, the weak link at 800 will be the pistons. I recommend Diamond or JE. The pistons will need to be coated if you want them to last.

I understand wanting to "overengineer" the combo so it will last, but their are better things to spend your money than Ti rods.

Torque plates are SOP when boring an aluminum block.
What does SOP mean? My aluminum block was machined with torque plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the help it really does clear so things up. I did have an aftermakert transmission in mind. I had a tko500 or 600 or a built t56 in mind. Thanks for the advice guys i didn't mean to seem like i wasn't listening. Maybe you guys can give me advice about how better to spend the money. What do you guy think about big bore vs stroking?
 

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Thanks for the help it really does clear so things up. I did have an aftermakert transmission in mind. I had a tko500 or 600 or a built t56 in mind. Thanks for the advice guys i didn't mean to seem like i wasn't listening. Maybe you guys can give me advice about how better to spend the money. What do you guy think about big bore vs stroking?
high hp FI combos work best with automatics, but if you must have a manual go with a t-56. The TKOs will not handle that much power.

Big bores are great and so are strokers, but only for n/a and moderate boost levels. I know people with 600rwhp strokers and big bores and they're holding up just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well i would like to have a 6 speed (always wanted one). I thought that if you stroked a 4.6 the piston speed would be too high and there would be a lot of issues with the the piston coming too far out of the cylinder with a stroker? My goal was to get close to 5 liters with a bore but not totally necessary. I was going to go turbo and custom fab my own.
 

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I am running a 5.1L Stroker utilizing a .020 over bore with a cast iron block and Oliver billet rods and probe pistons. I am right around 800rwhp and it seems to be doing fine. But I am CERTAINLY not spinning it to anything close to 8k rpms. In fact, I have not taken it past 6700 rpms, even though the power curve was still increasing when we let off on the dyno. Just don't see the point in risking anything trying to spin it too fast.
 

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I am running a 5.1L Stroker utilizing a .020 over bore with a cast iron block and Oliver billet rods and probe pistons. I am right around 800rwhp and it seems to be doing fine. But I am CERTAINLY not spinning it to anything close to 8k rpms. In fact, I have not taken it past 6700 rpms, even though the power curve was still increasing when we let off on the dyno. Just don't see the point in risking anything trying to spin it too fast.
I thought that if you stroked a 4.6 the piston speed would be too high and there would be a lot of issues with the the piston coming too far out of the cylinder with a stroker?
People who know nothing about strokers have been spreading that crap about the pistons coming out of the bores for years.

There really isn't a reason to spin a boosted combo past 7k, especially with 3.27-3.55 gears.
 
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