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448 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been around here for a couple years and never officially introduced myself. So I'm Kevin and am from Michigan. I bought my 98 Mustang Gt with only 40k miles about 4 years ago. I learned pretty much everything I know about Mustangs from this site so I'm going to try to give back by posting lots of pics and info and I'll try to list prices to give you guys an idea (I like to think I got some really good deals by being patient so you may not always see the same pricing on stuff. Just be patient and don't be afraid of used stuff). Mostly this will be centering on my current mark viii and t56 swap.

A year after having my mustang I decided I needed more power.
Started with flowtech ceramic longtube headers. I went with flowtech because they are made by Holley who also makes Hooker headers and both brands are the same dimensions. Install took me like 20 hours.

just taken on an older phone but you can hear the open headers.

Then I installed the side pipes to be original and my dad had side pipes on his cobra when he was younger.

very difficult to do. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it.

Did the PI swap. Was able to get the heads, cams, and intake manifold for 250 locally off craigslist.

difference between intakes

PI on left in both pics, and you'll need the PI intake drilled and tapped for the second sensor on the driver side. A friend helped me out and did it for free but I can't imagine it would be more than $20
-keep in mind you will also need a head change kit. I think it was 115 from summit. I went a year with high temp hose in place of PI coolant tube. The coolant tube eventually cost me like 35 or 40 from ford.

parts you have to take off for the PI swap. Honestly, It's an easy swap. It just takes time. You replace everything just like you took it off. And I highly recommend some sort of mechanic book. I have the full Ford mechanics book for my year but alot of people like the Haynes.

So with longtube headers to the side pipes and a cheap eBay CAI and a self tuned Sniper E85 tune and my first time to the track I ran a 14.2 at 98mph or something like that.

I will update this when I can. I have so much more info and pics. But I am in school alot. 10-12 hours a day 5 days a week. So when I get to the current stuff. I only get to work on my car on the weekends :(

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
By the way, after doing it a couple times, now I can put on my headers in probably about 4-5 hours. Still not an easy job though. Its all about learning tricks of how to get your hand to the bolts.

So the next year I did a 31 spline rear end upgrade including 3.73 gears and MT ET Slicks. My car is a 5 speed by the way. As you can see, I try to do things as cheaply as possible. I've gotten burned a few times and learned from cutting corners.

The Explorers come with a 31 spline diff and either 3.73s or 4.10s. The rear end is a direct swap for the jeep guys though so they are a little harder to get and more expensive at the junk yard.

I got this from a 99 explorer for $100 from a local junkyard. He originally wanted like 300 so don't be afraid to talk them down and work the junkyards against each other. It has 3.73 gears.

I did consider welding the mustang brackets to the explorer rear end and just put the whole thing up there but there are a couple problems with that. The biggest, which you can see in the above pic is that the pumpkin is offset to one side (one axle is shorter than the other). This would cause some severe vibration if you could get it hooked up if your mustang (I read about a couple fox bodies that tried it). Another problem is that the entire thing is two inches too short.

So I pulled the diff out of the explorer rear end. Here it is in the explorer rear end.

explorer 31 spline diff with 3.73 gears on right. Stock mustang 28 spline 3.27s on the left

cleaned it up and installed it

went with alloy usa 31 spline axles through summit because they were cheaper than the moser axles and they came with new axle bearings. They $229.95 plus $11.95 shipping and I launch pretty hard on them with no problems.

I ended up caught in a bad deal where I got some MT ET Drag slicks and 15 in. rims off Craigslist a couples hours away for $185. They were dirty and it was dark. When I got home and cleaned them, they had some slashes in one tire. So I bought two brand new MT slicks for $186 each minus a $50 gift card from MT.

I think these might still be the junk slicks.

So with the gear change the speedometer gets off. People say to just get a cheap speedo gear. Waste of time and money. You go from being 5 off at 30 and 15 off at 80mph to being like 2 off at 30 and still 8 or 10 off at 80. And the gears get chewed up real fast. Your speedometer will just one day stop working. The gears were $16.95 each. I got suckered for 2 of them before I realized what I really needed. Get the Dallas Speedcal ( I think there is another brand one now too). I got the Dallas Speedcal new off Craigslist for $50 but I think they may be closer to 100 at the store. Then call Dallas Mustang, they will give you a code to put in and it makes the speedometer exact.

I also got the Ford Master bearing/install kit off eBay for $60 plus $10 shipping to replace all the rear end bearings. Very large, like larger than 1in, sockets are good for knocking in the new bearing races. I was able to make back most of the cost of the 31 spline rear end and 3.73:1 gear ratio and the speedcal by selling all of my stock parts. Ended up costing me under $300 not including the speedo gears or diff fluid or tires.

With the change of 3.73 gears, 31 spline, slicks, and a cheap eBay short throw (mistake) I was able to run a 13.7 at 98mph making just rear end work worth half a second.

Here are some excellent resources I used during my rear end conversion:

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Next I tackled the fuel pump which is an issue for the 98 mustangs. The 98s are a mixture of the old return style and the up and coming newer returnless style. Essentially, the 98s have a return line set up with a returnless style fuel pump. After lots of research, I ended up going with a walbro 255 eBay knock off which cost me $39.98 with free shipping. Its a little big for the returnless style "bucket" but I made it fit. I drilled two holes in the front bottom part of the bucket to prevent the bigger pump from sucking it dry. The first time I put it in I didn't put in a new line to it. Keeping the "coiled" stock line has a pressure safety thing that kicks the fuel back into the fuel basket if a certain pressure is exceeded. so make sure to swap in the 1 foot gates fuel line that everybody suggests. Here's some pics:

new bigger pump on right with supplied foam around it to decrease noise. Which I don't hear any cabin noise from the pump now while I drive, but my exhaust is also kinda loud

I had never thought I would do nitrous until I found the NOS direct port injection noszle kit on eBay for really cheap. I got it for $305.74 plus 25 shipping and it included the kit plus a fuel pressure safety switch, WOT switch, and window switch, and bottle heater, bottle pressure gauge, and remote bottle opener. That explains why I couldn't pass it up. It just needed a bottle which I got off of Craigslist for $40. I installed it set up for a 100hp shot. The window switch was bad so I bought a summit brand digital dual window switch from summit for $52.

deleted my rear seats too which is still a work in progress. Still have to replace the seats with an actual delete to make it look nice again

I also took this time to install some Glowshift tinted gauges. I got the triple pod pillar and got a fuel pressure, oil pressure, and wideband air/fuel ratio gauges.

There were a couple other little things that are boring.

With this setup I ran a 13.0 at 107mph and I kept getting faster everytime but then it started raining. I think I could have, even with my limited driving ability and lack of experience on slicks, been able to get well into the high 12s.

At this point I realized I needed to get off my stock clutch

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Alright, so finally to what I've been working on recently. So I always thought having a T56 would be cool for the 6th gear and increased strength but they were always too expensive. Then this last winter I came across too good of a deal on Corral to pass up.

All from an 03 cobra. Low miles too. The cobra was rear ended and the owner was parting it out. Got everything there for only $1000 plus 100 shipping. So now you see why I couldn't pass it up. The aluminum driveshaft should be pretty sweet too. I'll work on installing that when I get my mark viii motor done.

I was told the transmissions throwout bearing retainer sleeve was broken so I decided to upgrade that to the hardened one I got off eBay for $90. I think the stock one was $50 and is apparently prone to breaking.

I knew my stock clutch was giving me launching trouble. So I wanted to do it right. So I am upgrading to an 11" clutch while I'm at it. Bought this new 11" Billet steel SFI approved flywheel for $110 shipped off eBay. I thought long about an aluminum flywheel but decided that since I DD my mustang in the summer, my rpms falling fast would be bad for the street. Plus it was a good deal.

Even though I was running low on cash, since I was upgrading my clutch anyways, I thought now would be the best time to do the 26 spline input shaft upgrade. Here seems to be the cheapest location: 26 spline input shaft
With shipping it ends up being like $338 which is how much it is on their eBay store shipped so I bought it there. There is a cheaper one on another eBay store for about $315 but it doesn't come with the bearing so you would have to buy the bearing and have it pressed on. It seems like its the Liberty brand that have the bearings pre pressed on and supposedly they are less likely to need shims.

So then I was looking for a good clutch. I was concerned about overclutching until I was informed by a terminator cobra guy that overclutching isn't an issue with 26 spline t56's. It seemed like alot of people ran the spec clutches so I thought I'd give it a try. I ended up with deciding on the stage 2+ because I read a couple places that the + series chatter a bit less. Not sure if that's true for all of them or not. I also hear that the specs chatter initially but the chatter stops after the break in miles. The stage 2+ is rated for 669 ft lbs of torque and is supposed to grab pretty hard.

I got it for $350 new off eBay. If you want one go through this guy on eBay: He was already the cheapest for a new spec stage 2+ at like $370 then I just made him an offer for $350 and he took it.

Everyone says the aftermarket throwout bearings are junk, including the ones from spec and they start squeeking after only a couple hundred miles so I bought this from LRS:
Throwout Bearing (apparently, according to some Ford employees its the same as the $20 more expensive FRPP throwout bearing)
and I bought some extra stuff for my engine at the same time
Pilot bearing (necessary because the mark viii engine is automatic and a manual is going behind it)
Bought 6 flywheel bolts
11" flywheel/clutch dowel kit
Coolant hoses kit
and lastly, Mach 1 throttle cables (I'm kinda trying something new here with this. I'm keeping the mark viii intake for reasons I'll say later but I've seen the 99/01 cobra cables work on the mark viii intake and I was looking at the 99/01 cobra cables vs. the 03/04 mach 1 cables and they look identical, along with the throttle body location too. And the mach 1 cables were $36 while the cobras were $53. I guess we'll find out if thats a cheaper alternative or not).

I also bought off eBay for $65 a kit with all new Granatelli adjustable clutch cable, UPR tripple hook quadrant, and UPR firewall adjuster: clutch adjuster kit

Here's some useful info links I used:
frpp tob pilot spec 3 tob retainer 26 spline info here
I'm thinking about doing the Anti-venom mod found here: Want smoother shifts?

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ok, motor stuff. I thought a long time about the 5.4 4 valve and then about the 351w swap fuel injected like the Saleen S351. I wanted to do the 351w because it has cheap forged internals and big displacement but decided against it because I realized that I drive my mustang so much, I would have to change so much that it would no longer be a reliable car. I decided against the 5.4 4v because of the expensive intake and mostly because it has the same cheap internals as the 4.6. I figured I could make a 5.4 4v probably easily make 400 rwhp and a buttload of torque N/A while a 4.6 4v would have 350 rwhp N/A, but I wouldn't be satisfied with either of those power levels, so eventually I would have to do forced induction and forged internals to both. The only difference would be like 2-3 more lbs of boost on the 4.6 4v for the same power as the 5.4 4v. So at that point I found out about the awesome Teksid block. I figured might as well take about 80lbs off my front end from my stock engine and then the 5.4 4v is another about 50 lbs more than that. It just didn't seem worth it to me.

So anyways, I say all that to say that I landed on wanting a 98 mark viii engine. I saw most people getting them for $400 so I was determined to pay that. I only found one locally even close to that price. I finally talked him down to $400 with a little bit of a fight. So I got my motor for 400 and they checked it and had it running right before they pulled it for me. The bad: it has about 100k miles but its what I could find so hopefully this works out.

brought it home, Its really dirty. Looks like a typical Lincoln owner that never touched the engine or opened the hood

I got it home before I realized they took the alternator off it right before selling it to me. I called them and they wanted $35 for a 100k mile alternator that should have come with the motor so I said forget it.

My Dad helped my pull my stock motor. Probably took about 8 hours. First time pulling the motor and I had LT headers which took quite a bit of time on their own

leave the A/C and powersteering connected. That will transfer onto the mark viii motor and will save you depressurizing the lines

brought the engine and trans home to tear down and put back to stock to sell

put it on the motor stand and swapped the heads, intake, cams. Took off the nitrous stuff, aftermarket fuel rails, etc... to sell separately. Good thing I kept all my stock stuff

back to stock

One of the reasons I bought the mark viii engine:

The mark viii's exhaust cams are the same as the cobras but the intake cams are smaller, so I bought the intake cams off a friend of a friend for $100 and he threw in the exhaust cams too. They are off of a 97 cobra with 39k miles. I bought the alternator off the same cobra from him too for $25.

much better than a 100k mile alternator for $35

dirty intake. removed upper here, then removed lower and IMRC plates along with the motor off the back of the driver head.

I don't think this engine has seen higher than 3000k rpm in a very long time. The secondary ports were sealed shut really well with carbon. I bent the lever a little bit trying to get them to open.

even with seeing all this carbon, I debated on whether to delete the IMRC plates or not. I have a window switch laying around that I could wire up to open at 3200rpm.

I obviously, ultimately decided to delete them mostly for simplicity reasons. I'd have to run power to the motor and find a place to mount it and find where to run the window switch too and cause me to loose power up top which is where I will be at the track. I figured I could make up for it in the tune.

so there's two little screws in each plate that are easily stripped that you have to remove. Try to remove most of the carbon first. I found that helped. The carbon buildup was so bad it sealed the screws in a little.

then pull the rod out threw the end. It is pretty hard to pull out. Try hitting something into the other end of it to knock it loose. It seems to be a general consensus that you lose about 15 ft. lbs. of torque down low but gain about 15 hp up top by doing the delete.

I used JB stick which is a type of JB weld. Use that or some type of epoxy that you don't think will come out. After drying, I hit on them pretty hard and none of them were budging so I don't think they'll come out under a little vacuum. Just use the epoxy or whatever to fill the holes the rod was in.

I spent a ton of time on them, cleaning the carbon out. But the delete is done here and the plates are lined up.

I thought I took a picture of it but I can't find it. But when you see the lincoln motor mount it will be very obvious that it cannot be used. Expect to either buy new motor mounts or use your stock motor mounts. I painted mine up and threw my stockers on it.

I started cleaning up the engine too. I have used a steel brush on an electric drill so much to clean this engine up and it works great. Got to love an aluminum block

supposedly this block, the Teksid, has been used in up to 1500hp applications.

This thread: 98 Mark VIII in a 98 GT has been very helpful. As well as the two threads on this site: step by step guide to installing a mark viii motor in a 96 gt and the bigger infamous thread, infamous lincoln mark viii engine swap thread

I've done a bunch more little things. Almost caught up though.

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I ended up going with exhaust manifolds this time around to save some money and because I was really unhappy with the tight bend from my longtubes out to my sidepipes. It was two small of pipe and it was kinda crushed because of the tight turn. So this way I can run nice big mandrel bend to my sidepipes. Plus, cobra longtubes are like $700 which I don't think is worth the like 15 hp and I never thing short tubes are ever worth it, but that's my opinion. Also, they use the stock manifolds in turbo kits where the exhaust flow is very important. So anyways, I bought some 03 cobra exhaust manifolds for $55 shipped.

03 cobra on left, what came off the mark viii on the right (I'm assuming its stock). If you are using exhaust manifolds, then you want them from the newer 99-04 cobras because they don't have some goofy air injection thing on them.

installed on the passenger side using my old header bolts

its kinda hard to tell, but this is the driver side. The dipstick gets in the way of the exhaust manifold and keeps it about an inch away from seating. I guess I'll have to bend the dipstick a little.

I removed the coolant crossover that was really rusty and needs a second coolant sensor tapped on the driver side but I wonder if I can just splice into the other sensor on the passenger side or if I need the two sensors? If you can find a 93-95 mark viii crossover, it has the two bungs there for the two sensors. Getting the coolant crossover out is pretty tricky, and you have to be careful not to bend or break it since it is a discontinued part from Ford. I probably spent like an hour and a half trying to get it out. What ended up working is a crowbar jammed were the alternator would have been (mine is not installed) and underneath each elbow separately. Be very gentle though. Mine dented ever so slightly. That will just loosen the crossover. Then wiggle that crossover to death. What ended up getting it out was getting some help and as you pull up on it as much as hard as you can, put a flathead screwdriver under the bracket that bolts down and tap it with a hammer. It will finally pop out. Try to do both sides slightly evenly.

after getting the coolant crossover out, I slide the two halves apart and sandblasted them. They take three O rings. I bought a new set of three from TSC for like $2. I sandblasted the powersteering bracket too.

put on three coats of high heat rustoleum paint from home depot. I think it was 5 or 6 dollars.

finished. after being baked in the oven a couple times to increase the heat strength.

took the intake off to clean it up. You can see the ports are just caked with carbon build up.

I decided to stick with the stock intake, instead of getting a 96-98 cobra intake which flows better because they cost about 400-500 plus you have to get the 96-98 throttle cables for them which cost 200 on eBay right now. I found one for 100 on craigslist but I think that's kinda ridiculous. The cobra intake does look alot nicer and flow better but not more than 10-15hp better seeing as the mark viii is rated at 290 and the cobra is 305 and I already got the better cobra intake cams. Plus, I didn't want to pay all that money for the intake when I may down the line upgrade to C heads and intake and I can do the intake swap whenever I want if I decide I want the B head cobra intake, cams you kinda need the engine out to do.

So anyways, I decided to do a minor port and polish on my intake with like $5 of dremels from Harbor Freight. I figured I couldn't mess up this poorly flowing intake. So I just gasket matched it. Put on the old gaskets and sprayed black paint so I could see where to go to.

it actually took a very long time. I removed alot of metal. And of course my dremel only fits like 4 or 5 inches in.

I spent alot of time cleaning out the carbon inside. I probably spent ten hours out working on port and polishing this intake.

To make it look nicer, I polished the outside using a steel brush in a drill which I have used all over this engine. Its a great little tool.

When you read people say they just unhooked the knock sensors and stuffed the wire in the valley this is what they mean

Our computers can't read knock sensors so they unfortunately are of no use to us.

My dad guilted me into putting the sound deadener thing back in. After all, it only weighs a couple ounces probably. Definitely not even a pound, and my car is a daily driver with occasional visits to the track, not an all out track car.

Put the IMRC plates on. Apparently the IMRC plates are actually the lower intake manifold according to Autozone and O'Reilly and the lower intake manifold is actually called the plenum. So if you want new gaskets for your intake, order plenum gaskets. So I put on new "plenum" gaskets and then the intake manifold.

I think it looks much better with a little polish.

then I installed the mark viii 26 lb injectors and the fuel rail. I cleaned most of the surface rust off the fuel rail with that steel brush on my drill again.

bolted on what I consider the plenum and the throttle body after I painted a couple of the rusted parts a flat black.

deleted the EGR (since I live in Michigan where we have zero emission testing). Its just a piece of aluminum with two holes drilled in it. Kept the egr gasket in there to prevent leaking. Had to use old extra header bolts I had as the egr bolts were too long.

And here's the whole motor

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So yesterday I did the cams. As I said before, the mark viii has the same exhaust cams as the cobra, but the intake cams are different. So I bought the intake cams off of a low mileage 97 cobra for $100 and the guy threw in the exhaust cams for free. I believe the 96-98 cobra cams are actually the best N/A 4v cams. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I removed the valve covers, cam caps (make sure to note which cam cap goes where, they are not interchangeable and are all similar looking), and the stock cams, and timing chains.

other side. Lifters were bled with a big ol vice and then reinstalled along with the rockers.

these are the primary timing chains. They have two copper links opposite of each other on each chain but they are kinda hard to find. So I just lay them out and paint two links perfectly opposite of each other. Like so...

These painted links get lined up with the dots/marks on the primary cam sprockets and crank sprockets after you time the secondary chains. The dots mark the single tooth to put the marked chain on. But first I put the cams on...

97 cobra intake cams just set on.

I ended up using the cobra exhaust cams too just because they had less miles on them. Now the exhaust cam secondary sprocket from the mark viii was used and it has a key on it and the cobra exhaust cam has a keyway slot that is slides on but the cobra exhaust cam keyway slot had a small key in it which I just removed with some needle nose pliers. Sorry I didn't get pics. Kinda tough to explain but hopefully it will make sense if you come across it

So first before you bolt anything down, turn the crank to top dead center. I usually just estimate it to the crank key about at the 11 o'clock position. I don't do it the most exact way but it works and I don't have to use any special ford tools. Anyways, after that, set the cams down in their spots with the keyways in the 6 o'clock position, relative to the heads. There will be a dot on the secondary sprockets at the 12 o'clock position to help visualize. Then I just put the cam caps on in their right place and zip the bolts down real quick, don't torque them. The cams will probably move a little from the valves resisting it, just keep it close to the keyway at 6.

Now the secondary timing chain has two copper link on it too. You have to find these links because they are not across from each other as they will line up at the 12 position on each sprocket. I then took the secondary sprockets off the cams, lined up the copper links with the dots on the secondary sprockets. Then have a friend put a 3/8 drive ratchet in the back of the cams to align them so you can wiggle the sprockets on the two cams. When you get them partially on, put the tensioner spring in and compress it and slowly wiggle the sprockets back and the chain onto the tensioner. Repeat on the other side.

Put on the primary sprockets, start with the driver side and line up the painted links with the dots/marks on the sprockets. Just like the 2v.

all timed up.

Put the timing chain cover back on and the valve covers back on with new valve cover gaskets because the spark plug gaskets were leaking oil. I also painted the water pump pulley before putting it back on.

Sarcastic Sally
3,352 Posts
This awesome bro! I was in the middle of doing the swap myself and got distrcted with a move, ended up buying a 2001 cobra vert:dunno so now m stuck with a 98GT and a 98 Mark VIII motors with a S***load of new parts as well, I guess im gonna end up selling everything off to get money for my FI, or do the swap and keep it as my DD...either way, you write up is amazing, pics and all, reps bro!:cool:

889 Posts
looking good!

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Today, I didn't get alot done but I tackled the oil pan and pickup tube.

Here's the stock mark viii oil pan with that goofy side thing. I don't know what that's for. But I believe that is why it doesn't fit on the mustang k member.

So I bought a sn95 cobra oil pan and a matching oil pickup tube for $65 plus $15 shipped.

The oil pan had a couple scratches on it and I had some paint laying around so I thought I'd just put a little flat black on it

the difference in baffling in the cobra oil pan on the left and mark viii oil pan on the right. Supposedly the 96-98 oil pan is the best because of the baffling. But any GT or cobra pan will work.

Here is the stock mark viii pickup tube installed. I was told that the mark viii tube would not work because it would not allow the pan to seat. That the tube was too tall. Well...

The oil pan seats just fine over the mark viii pickup tube.

But I noticed that the cobra pickup tube might actually be taller. So I measured the mark viii tube. It was about 5 1/4 in.

The cobra tube here is about 6 1/4 and quite a bit farther toward the front of the engine so I installed the cobra one because I figured it would reach down further into the pan to get oil in low oil situations. But you could use the mark viii tube if you were in a pinch. Can't use the gt tube because apparently it doesn't have a big enough diameter to fit the 4v oil pump.

Got it all installed with a new oil pan gasket from autozone.

And now I'm all caught up with where I am now.

Thanks for your support guys.

305 Posts
Great read and awesome build. What kind of power are you expecting? Any plans for the new motor, like heads, cams or anything for more power?

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Great read and awesome build. What kind of power are you expecting? Any plans for the new motor, like heads, cams or anything for more power?
I am shooting for about 300rwhp N/A for now. I installed 97 cobra cams and did a mild port and polish of the intake manifold. I have a direct port injection Nitrous set up that I will probably be selling to make some money and I'd like to convert it into a plate kit. And I'll be running a 100hp shot. Eventually, like a year or two I'm planning forced induction. Debating between a centrifugal supercharger of on3performance's new forward facing turbo kit. But that's awhile from now. And then probably a couple years after that buying another mark viii engine to do a forged build on the teksid block, maybe C heads, so I can keep my mustang running and take my time on the build.

I have alot of stuff to update you guys with. Hopefully I can do that tonight.

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Quick update before I go to school...

So this is how I deleted the EGR on the Exhaust side

This is the driver side head with a tapered cap I got from Home Depot for like two bucks.

I mentioned before how the dipstick was in the way of the driver side exhaust manifold and kept it from seating. I was contemplating some complicated ways of bending it out of the way, then I just thought I'd try hitting it with a hammer. Worked perfectly. I just took a standard size hammer and used like medium force in a couple spots.

it doesn't take much to get it out of the way

Be careful not to kink it. With this much bending the exhaust manifold fits perfectly and the dipstick goes in and out without a snag.

Driver Exhaust Manifold installed using old header bolts.

The rear passenger side coolant lines need cutting, otherwise they will hit the firewall when you are trying to install the mark viii motor and prevent you from putting your motor in.

Here are the lines cut. I just guessed at what length to cut them. Later you will see that the coolant line to the right was not cut low enough since it kinda sticks out and was hitting the firewall.

I have alot more to update. Stay tuned

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I basically finished up the motor aspect so I took the motor off of the engine stand and lifted it on the cherry picker so I could put on my new flywheel/clutch etc.

I bought some replacement bolts from Late model resto for like $2 a piece that I think I mentioned earlier

cleaned it up a bit. Notice how that since the Lincoln is an automatic that there is no pilot bearing. So I bought a new Pilot bearing from LMR I put a link to earlier.

Apparently, the pilot bearing is a frequently forgotten thing and will cause unwanted vibrations if you forget to install it. I tried freezing the pilot bearing for like an hour and a half but it didn't go in any easier. It probably has to be in the freezer over night. Idk. So I just used a rubber mallet to really pound it in.

put the block plate on first before other parts. It just slips on over two dowels in the block and falls off alot.

Flywheel I got new off eBay for $110 shipped. I think I talked about why I chose the billet steel instead of aluminum before.

installed with the six new bolts. Keep in mind that the mark viii is a 6 bolt crank

dowel pins installed in the 11" clutch, outer rim, position. Just hammered them in. Some didn't want to go in right away

dowel pin locations. There's three of them. I bought the dowel kit from LMR as stated earlier

I used my input shaft as a more exact alignment tool than the provided plastic alignment tool which can distort from the weight. It was suggested in the awesome video that I will put a link to at the bottom. And I was upgrading to a 26spline input shaft anyways so it was already out.

I bolted up the pressure plate and put the plastic alignment tool in as a place holder, then bolted on the T56 bellhousing to make it easier to put the transmission on in the car. I also put on the starter at this time.

Ready to be dropped in

Wearing my sunday best, excited to drop her in.

It took a little bit of wiggling, but it pretty much dropped right in with the exception of one coolant line hitting in the back. So I had to cut that a little shorter.

So cut it like 3 inches above the bend and it will drop right in. Without the transmission the engine tilts back in that area too. Worst comes to worst, it wasn't difficult to get to to cut a little more off.

Dropped in on its motor mounts. Not really that big of a deal to drop in. Bellhousing wasn't even an issue really. Also keep in mind that I didn't have my radiator overflow tank or fan in, but radiator was still there, and watch for your A/C and power steering compressors. I did have a little trouble with the hydroboost brake stuff getting in the way just because of the way the cherry pickers legs and jack stands were hitting the engine was favoring the driver side a little. But nothing that can't easily be handled. Other people claim it is tough to drop in, but I don't see it.

References: Awesome clutch install video
American Muscle Spec install write up

448 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Moved on to upgrading the input shaft and throwout bearing retainer sleeve on the T56. Honestly, probably the easiest thing I've done on my car so far with the exception of one stupid easily fixed mistake which I will help you steer clear of.

Stock, 10 spline input shaft, broken throwout sleeve. Remove the 11 bolts on the outside rim of the front cover, then just tap it off.

With the front cover off. Still stock parts. Didn't get a pic of it, but I hammered out the old throwout bearing sleeve and hammered the new one in. I wouldn't suggest hammering directly on anything by the way. And assuming the bearing races will fall out of the front cover, there are only two spots for them and one shim and one race goes in each spot, and they should be somewhat obvious which spot they go in since each spot has a different diameter.

The input shaft literally just pulls out. Turn it a little as you are pulling helps. The new one goes in the same way. Here is the 26 spline input shaft installed.

So the mistake I made was with putting the front cover back on. Cleaned up the surfaces, put on RTV, lined up the dowels and slide the front cover on, started the bolts on and then thought I would just barely zip down the bolts with the impact to tighten it up for the RTV drying. Well then the input shaft didn't want to spin. Took it off, cleaned off RTV did it again. Looked up the torque requirements. Apparently it only needs 11-19 ft lbs so I torqued them to 14 which is like nothing and the input shaft spins perfect. By the way this pic is with the billet steel throw out bearing sleeve installed too which I talked about earlier. Apparently the stock ones like to break, hence why mine was broken.
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