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Discussion Starter #1
went and bought one from autozone, installed it idle shot up to 2200rpms or it would just die! then i got p01506 :computer: guess ima just order a motorcraft one :cry:
 

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ive got the exact same problem man...my rpms dont hang when coming down but stops rite at 1500 when rolling but come to stop down to 800rpm...its stupid lol

im going with an oem one soon!
 

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mine was doing that fast idle junk then progressed to fast idle that dropped suddenly causing car to to stall in traffic tried 2 from autozone both wouldn't run put on motorcraft fixed problem
 

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went and bought one from autozone, installed it idle shot up to 2200rpms or it would just die! then i got p01506 :computer: guess ima just order a motorcraft one :cry:
LOL shame on you for cheaping out on this, the things we do to save a few dollars!:facepalm:
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Get the Motorcraft from rockauto, I believe it's about 80. I had the Autozone crap and it did the same thing. I swapped it out for another Autozone and it did the same thing but instead of 2200 RPM it was like 1800 or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Get the Motorcraft from rockauto, I believe it's about 80. I had the Autozone crap and it did the same thing. I swapped it out for another Autozone and it did the same thing but instead of 2200 RPM it was like 1800 or something.
whats the difference between these two:
MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1785 {#2R3E9F715AA, 2R3Z9F715AA, F539E857AA} A


$92.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1808 {#2R3E9F715DA, 2R3Z9F715DA}

---------- Post added at 11:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 AM ----------

You have to remember Cliffy is the exception he is a Mad Engineer Scientist he probally bought one from advance and then turned it into a space shuttle then forgot what he was doing and put his old one back on.
:eek:uttahere:
 

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The CX 1808 is the older Hitachi sourced unit, the CX1785 is the newer device supplied by Nippon-Denso.

Did you disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes during/after installing the new IAC? This is needed to reset the PCM's KAM (Keep Alive Memory) and force it to learn new idle air trim values.

Also make sure the IAC gasket is not leaking, and that you have no other vacuum leaks after the MAF...
 

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You guys can't crack your IACs open and clean them? IAC on my car has at least 300k miles on it. It acts up, I take it apart and clean the carbon out of it, good as new.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The CX 1808 is the older Hitachi sourced unit, the CX1785 is the newer device supplied by Nippon-Denso.

Did you disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes during/after installing the new IAC? This is needed to reset the PCM's KAM (Keep Alive Memory) and force it to learn new idle air trim values.

Also make sure the IAC gasket is not leaking, and that you have no other vacuum leaks after the MAF...
i did not do that :facepalm: n no vacuum leaks
 

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You guys can't cracks your IACs open and clean them? IAC on my car has at least 300k miles on it. It acts up, I take it apart and clean the carbon out of it, good as new.
It is a crimped assembly--no way to open it up non-destructively...
 

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ive got the exact same problem man...my rpms dont hang when coming down but stops rite at 1500 when rolling but come to stop down to 800rpm...its stupid lol

im going with an oem one soon!
That's exactly how it's supposed to work... That is how the tune is setup.. There is a scaler that sets the min MPH to return to idle which is why your car will hang around 1300 until your under 5mph or a complete stop basically.



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i did not do that :facepalm: n no vacuum leaks
From the shop manual:



Here are the TPS output specs, if you open and close the throttle while observing the TPS output voltage it should follow these tracks. It also needs to be smooth with no dropouts or surges:

 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok thanks cliff, guess i'll give it another try and see what happens
 

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Not to thread jack but what is the proppwr way to test the tps? Do I disconnect the and test off the pig tail or keep plugged in and expose the wires and test off that?

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The best way is with to with the key on and engine off (KOEO) back probe or use insulation piercing probes to monitor the TPS output signal--between the gray/white wire and ground--and compare it to the graphs I posted above. This one test confirms or denies both the consistency of the Vref (+5 V reference) signal from the PCM, and the TPS's operation.

The output voltage, as you open and close the throttle, should follow the line in the graph and be within the limits shown. As it changes it should be smooth and continuous with no glitches, dropouts or surges.

I use these insulation piercing probes from EZ Hook:



They have stainless steel tips and will easily pierce automotive wire leaving just a small nearly self-sealing hole in the insulation. Use dielectric grease to weatherproof the puncture, or RTV sealant for a more permanent seal...
 

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