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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a na 2.3 I've done a fair amount of work on but it needs a little more done so I thought id ask opinions on some things I've been debating on doing or not doing when it comes time to do the work. It needs a head gasket and valve cover gasket at this point so I was planning on finding a spare head and having it milled down .15 or .015 can't remember which it is right now, having the valve seals done, and grinding down that little notch in the ports. Proly new valves too. Any suggestions there?

Also I want to maybe do some conservative mods while its apart.

I've heard that the 3.8 maf will work on the 2.3. Idk how true that is tho. I have a cai system set up ready to go in now but I was also throwing around the idea of moving the maf to the end of the throttle body. I've heard it gives a more exact reading.

I've also heard there are some guts in the intake u can take out on the 87 to 90 models but not the 91 to 93 models like mine. I guess u can't get to the guts. Are the intakes interchangable?

I know I'm gonna remove the egr since I've proven that mod and I'm gonna add a ranger header. I've heard tho that the later 2.3 rangers had better cams than my 92 cam. True or not???

Other than that I'm potentially thinking about 17lbs injectors. I'm kinda doubting that tho. I've only heard a few people said it helped compared to a lot of people saying its pointless but I know if I do even half of what I'm thinking it will add more horses to it so it may be helpful. I know I'm not gonna be even close to 200 but I still think the 14lbs may not be enough.

Any info or links would be super helpful
 

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I'm actually learning more from reading your post than I am answering anything...

I believe you can use the older intake, but I think the ports changed shape between the heads so maybe not. The later 2.5L Ranger/B-series (1998-2000, and some 2001) intakes flowed the best. A small port/polish on one of those might get you more. I've got a couple spares that I plan to do that with on my cars, eventually.

I also thought the 1991-1993 roller cam was the same as the later Ranger cams.

Here is a link I've seen posted all over the place. You've probably seen it: Ford 2.3L Performance - HotRodHigh.ca
 

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The later cams were a different profile, don't know about better though and they can take some playing with to get good. I believe it was the site quikstang2 posted that had a list of different cam profiles matched to different rockers but IIRC it required some finagling. Find something aftermarket imo.

The ranger header typically has fairly nominal gains. Speedway sells long tubes for $100.

Believe the intake ports are all different, never paid a whole lot of attention to them though.

I would shave the head .100"-.150". Injectors are a good idea. I'd use 19# and a tuner.
 

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The later cams are not a different profile, OHC and i had a discussion on this a while back. The cams are almost identical, but the newer motor gets the higher lift from the altered lifter boss position, which increases the follower ratio. Buy an aftermarket cam if you want power.

Speedway header, dont waste your time on the Ranger header, its useless.

The intakes are all different, change heads to change intakes. A 2.5 ranger head swap might be the best thing to do if you are going to stick with the 8 plug setup. I personally re wired my harness and swapped to the 4 plug D port head and intake, with the distributor.

Mill the head to .100", .150" is too much for the 8 plug in my opinion, i have it done on my ranger and it spark knocks a little even running 93 octane.

The 3.8 MAF sensor might work, but unless you put a tuner on it its not going to run right, stick with the stock MAF and throw some 19 or 17 (i run 17's) in it and call it a day. The 14lb injectors are only good to ~110 HP the stock ECU is only good for about 130 maybe 140HP without a tuner and bigger injectors.

As for moving the MAF to the throttle body, i doubt it helps, the same amount of air moves through the intake tubes no matter where you measure it. Its best to keep it close to the cooler air up front.

When you do CIA on any car the most important thing is to never leave the filter open to the engine bay, it needs to be completely boxed so no hot post radiator air gets to it, if you dont do this you are wasting time and reducing potential HP.
 

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There shouldn't be any HP gain by removing EGR, as it disables during WOT.
EGR 'should' improve fuel economy, but I've yet to see this documented and haven't tested it myself.
With that said, I have removed the EGR on my 2.3

I'm using a Moates QuarterHorse. For the MAF and injector changes you are mentioning, it would be worth it to have the ability to tune...

On the MAF location, just make sure it isn't immediately before or after any bends in piping.

If you do decide to get a head/intake from another year, I would suggest getting everything; head, intake, fuel rail, any brkts that bolt to the head, etc. The exhaust sides all seem pretty close, but there were differences over the years on the intake side of the head... some stuff is compatible, but other stuff isn't ... I don't know all the specifics, but I did have the issue when I switched to a DP head.

If the head has to come of, then its worth milling it for CR.
An adjustable cam gear might be nice too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've decided to keep the maf where its at. I haven't heard anything good yet. I'm deff gonna go qith bigger injectors. Proly 19lbs since I've already got some. I do want to stick with the dual plug tho. I'm not really trying to rewire anything. Is the 2.5 head the best for this route. I've heard it does flow better.I also may try boring out the maf like in the link posted up there. Seems like it may be a decent idea.
 

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Dont mod your MAF, the computer is built for that MAF putting different injectors in is already pushing the limits of your ECUs self tuning capabilities. The 2.5 head only flows a bit better and most of it is because of the valve lift that the design change enables. Its only the best option if you are not looking to do much to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah im not trying to get too in depth with it as its my dd. Realy not trying to do any diff wiring either. I can change physical parts all day but im worthless when it comes to wires. As for the maf sensor the link up there had a part about boring out the maf and said it was a recommended mod. Im thinking it basically tricks the ecu. Pretty sure im just gonna find a 2.3 head and go to town on it tho. I know it will slide right in place of mine with no modification other than proly a cam timing adjuster.
 

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My opinion... grinding/drilling on the MAF housing is hack work.
Either buy a MAF cal'd for your injector/ecu combo, or get a tuning chip setup... preferably the tuner, but it all depends on how far you want to go with the car.
 

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You can drill it it if you're careful and you're drilling to the correct size to account for whatever size injectors you put in it. It is hack work, but it is cheap and can work. Obviously I'd still use a tuner on it, especially if you do this.
 

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I don't know why that site is always recommended as a 'great' resource. Honestly, the more I read on there, the more I find that is wrong or flat-out irresponsible...

You can drill it it if you're careful and you're drilling to the correct size to account for whatever size injectors you put in it. It is hack work, but it is cheap and can work. Obviously I'd still use a tuner on it, especially if you do this.
Honestly, the linked site is irresponsible for recommending to drill the MAF... especially when the only supporting data presented is the guys personal opinion.
The first run without the mod, with my foot to the floor, I was only able to reach 95 km/h (59 mph) in 5th gear at the top of the hill. With the mod, I was able to go 105 km/h (65 mph) at the top - I accelerated up the hill! An increase of 10 km/h - that is impressive and one of the best improvements yet.
Without before and after data (AFR from a WB), one has no idea why/how this modified MAF made an actual difference...
This is a WOT test... what happened to the AFR at cruising/idle?
Was the car too lean on the first test, then richer after the mod?
Maybe it was too rich on the first test, then leaner after the mod?
How was the LOAD calculation impacted, and what did that do to the ignition timing being looked up in the Spark table?
Was the car even in good working order for this testing?

What I'm getting at is this test is kind of a joke for supporting a bold recommendation to others... which could potentially damage someones engine...

If someone wants to modify their MAF housing as a method of 'calibrating'... then they will need a WBO2 sensor to monitor the impact of the MAF modification, some way to log/record data, as well as a tuner to make tune adjustments to account for the modification.
Anything less and a guy is just guessing...
Personally, I prefer not to guess with my AFR.

jason
 

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I got a spare junkyard MAF and tried it out using 24# injectors (for shits and giggles). Drilled out the MAF accordingly. Worked well at top end with increased compression but at idle sometimes it would run a bit dodgy and throw a code. Eventually bumped down to 19#s and ran for a while like that, then eventually reverted back to all stock. It can work, but I agree, without being able to monitor AFR it's kinda stupid. I did it for research, didn't care too much about the motor. Wanted to turbo swap it anyway lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I may pick up a jy maf and try it just to see. Worst case scenario I just put my stock one back on. I do need a little help with the machining part tho. I know i need to mill down a little but what else should I do and what new parts are recommended
 
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