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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to do a nearly complete suspension overhaul on my 06 GT. I'm looking to lower it either 1.5 or 2". I've done my deal shopping and just ordered all the parts I believe I'll need to do the drop properly. I'm looking at possibly getting into autocross, so feel free to point me in the right direction! Keep in mind it's my quasi-DD as well (It gets driven about 3-4 times a week) :cool:

Based on the following list of parts I've ordered, is there anything else I will/might need? (Note: the abundance of Steeda parts is due to their 20% off black friday sale, for those wondering lol)

-Eibach Pro-Street Coil Over Kit

-Steeda Bumpsteer Kit

-Steeda X5 Ball Joint Kit

-Eibach Anti-Roll Sway Bar Kit (front and rear sways with endlinks)

-Eibach Pro-Alignment Camber Adjustment Bolts

-Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (weld-in)

-Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates

-Steeda Billet Lower Control Arms

-Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar w/ aluminum brace

-Steeda Adjustable Upper Control Arm
 

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FBGM
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I guess the only thing I would ask is do you have the tools. Not trying to sound like an ass, but Ive had to go back to the store just to get a tool I thought i had.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess the only thing I would ask is do you have the tools. Not trying to sound like an ass, but Ive had to go back to the store just to get a tool I thought i had.
Like what sort of tools? We have the spring compressor and almost every standard tool imaginable, but are there any specialty tools I'll need?
 

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might need a bracket for that upper control arm, here if you put them in the stock bracket it can be noisy... not 100% sure though.. badass list man!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
might need a bracket for that upper control arm, here if you put them in the stock bracket it can be noisy... not 100% sure though.. badass list man!
Noted. & Thanks man! I'm itching to get it all installed!
 

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Want Camels?
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Nice setup indeed, yet everyone got his own taste, as you can see in my sig I have a different setup. The only thing I would make concern at is the endings of the LCA and PHB "poly or spherical?", you mentioned its DD so polys are less in transferring road noise, spherical will do more but better for performance.. All the best, and keep us posted how its gonna turn out, and also if you could measure the Gforce :)
 

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MM's Resident Male Nurse
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Can I ask about how much all those suspension parts cost you?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I made sure they were all Poly bushings, for sure! & All in total it was around $2,500 :) I found a killer deal on the Eibach coilovers, and AM price-matched them for under 1000! They're listed at 1200 on AM normally.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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My thoughts, and thinking out loud here too so don't expect "nice"! :)

-Eibach Pro-Street Coil Over Kit
I wouldn't waste money on any of the cheap coilovers... the least expensive set I would go with are the Ground Controls which use Koni shocks and custom valving to whatever spring rates you choose. At ~$1800 they come WITH camber plates (and nice onces too).

-Steeda Bumpsteer Kit
I would check with your local Autocross group if these are legal for where you run at. For SCCA autocross these will put you into Street Modified (not a Mustang friendly class) or C-Prepared (not a 3500lb Mustang friendly class). Without these and a few other of the mods you could run in ESP where a 3500lb Mustang is competitive (on slicks) or STX (where the Mustang is potentially competitive).

-Steeda X5 Ball Joint Kit
As with the Bumpsteer kit, straight to SM or CP if it's an SCCA region.

-Eibach Anti-Roll Sway Bar Kit (front and rear sways with endlinks)
Non-adjustable rear swaybar makes this kit a non-starter. Look at Sam Strano's swaybars or Hellwigg's (makes Sam's bars). Strano's/Hellwigg's bars are adjustable front and rear and come in various sizes for the rear (22, 25, 28) and are adjustable. There is also the Whiteline bars which are most likely good bits of kit but I'm not a fan of adding more unsprung weight to the rear axle or adding the weight of a solid front bar to the front...

-Eibach Pro-Alignment Camber Adjustment Bolts
No, definitely not. Especially not if autocross is going to be serious thing for you. The only Camber Bolts I would run are the Ford OEM ones and even then, I wouldn't. You'll get plenty of camber from the camber plates.

-Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (weld-in)
Check with your autocross club to make sure these are legal for lower classes... they aren't legal until SM (if you torture the suspension rules a little bit) and CP.

-Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates
Good bit of kit, not be necessary if you invest in the Ground Control coilovers.

-Steeda Billet Lower Control Arms
Check with your Autocross club to make sure these are legal for lower classes... in SCCA it's straight to SM/CP again

-Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar w/ aluminum brace
PHB's are nice for a quick and inexpensive fix for the axle stepping out, but you'll probably be able to drive the car harder with a Watts link... It's expensive, but trust me, worth every penny. The transitional feel between a PHB and a Watts link can't be compared, the Watts is THAT much better. No planting/unplanting of tires in quick transitions. On a roadcourse a PHB is fine because the rate at which the car transitions is usually much less frequently and the use of stupid stiff springs can limit the feeling of the axle moving under the car but a Watts link removes that movement and allows you to use springs that aren't waay too stiff for DDing.

-Steeda Adjustable Upper Control Arm
Not sure how much of a difference this will make for autocross use. I would look into the mount to go with it to eliminate any likelihood of it making noise.

Missing from this list are your wheels and tires... Getting a set of lightweight wheels and putting some good tires on them is absolutely the most important modification for any car regardless of motorsport choice.

To each their own on parts, but I think you'd be better off with a much nicer set of coilovers then the Eibachs. Heck, I think you'd be better off with a set of Koni Sports and some good lowering springs then with those coilovers. Not to mention those Eibachs aren't even adjustable. You are literally relying on Eibach to make the same assumption you are about your intended use for them on the shock valving. I can almost guarantee you will find that they simply don't do what you ask and for $1000 you can get a set of Koni yellows ($770 with free shipping from Sam Strano) and a set of lowering springs ($200 used on most forum classifieds) and have the opportunity to do a little tuning of the shocks/struts yourself with the adjustment on them.

Lastly, what is your driving experience when it comes to pushing cars hard? Previous autocross/roadcourse experience or just wanting to have a nice parts list? If this will be your first time ever autocrossing or any serious corner carving I wouldn't touch a damn thing on the car until you've spent at least 3 events on the car stock then fix what you don't like about the car rather then dump a bunch of money into the suspension to spend a lot of time chasing your tail wishing you could catch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, definitely didn't realize there were part regulations. Should've known lol. Being in college though, idk how much time I'll have for xcross anyways. I may just sport around on the Sebring International track on occasion when I'm home. Thanks for setting me straight Whiskey!
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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Wow, definitely didn't realize there were part regulations. Should've known lol. Being in college though, idk how much time I'll have for xcross anyways. I may just sport around on the Sebring International track on occasion when I'm home. Thanks for setting me straight Whiskey!
Yeah the SCCA uses your modifications to class your car. Stock allows shocks/struts one swaybar, stupid sticky "DOT" slicks (don't ask), Ford OEM camber bolts, catback exhaust. STX and ESP allow a lot more (including coilovers) but no lower control arms or any relocation of the various control arms. You can use an aftermarket UCA mount but it has to use the stock location if there are multiple locations. Beyond that you get into some seriously big money classes with big wings, stripped interiors, etc. You can still have fun but it will be hard to be competitive.
 

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Damn boy, I always read posts about suspension, from now on; the first advice I will give is "wait for Whiskey's response"
 
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