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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is probably a million threads asking this question but I couldn't find any. heres the motor:

2v teskid alum block.
comp 270 cams.
bee hive springs.
port polished pi heads.
billit intake
mahley rods and pistons.
balanced crank.
its 11:1 compression.

here is a indirect picture of a injector because I feel this may be m deciding factor; I was told they are 30lb injectors but look like 19s to me.


I know they are hard to see but those werent aimed at the injectors exactly lol.

also he says he thinks its a 85mm MAF that came with it. I still have my complete factory set up. who thinks what on this? sorry if things are spelled wrong I can hardly see this on my phone.
 

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So are you dropping that motor into your car to replace a stock motor, if so then of course you're going to need a tune.
 

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30# injectors will be red on top. 19's are orange I beleive. You most definitley will need a tune and you will probably need some sort of base tune just to get he car to run. Beyond that get it tuned on a dyno and don't throw your money away on some mail order BS.
 

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I have a similar setup in my car. I had Justin at VMP send me a tune and it seems to be working well. I had it dyno'd then he adjusted the tune after i sent him the dyno graph. If money is keeping you away from a dyno tune thats the route i would go.
 

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Those look just like my 19# injectors.

And I've got a question about your fuel rail setup. Are you converting the car to a return style fuel setup and deleting the FPDM? Because a 2000 isn't going to run right with that fuel rail/regulator setup using the returnless setup with the FPDM.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Those look just like my 19# injectors.

And I've got a question about your fuel rail setup. Are you converting the car to a return style fuel setup and deleting the FPDM? Because a 2000 isn't going to run right with that fuel rail/regulator setup using the returnless setup with the FPDM.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I still have all my old stuff which I may just swap over, what do you think? I was also debating just deleting the return side.
 

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If you want to stay returnless, like you have now, you'll have to swap out that fuel rail to the newer style one like what's in my picture, and put the FRPS on it.

If you want to go return style, you can keep what's on there, and run a return style fuel system from the 96-97 Mustang.
 
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