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Discussion Starter #1
Last week I posted about my '00 mustang randomly not starting sometimes and then working fine after a little bit. Now, it doesnt start at all(cranks but no start). I can hear the fuel pump prime and I checked the battery and posts and they are all tight and clean.

Before, when I started the car, I could hear what sounded like a relay kicking on and then the fuel pump would prime. Now, the fuel pump still primes but I don't hear that "click" of a relay kicking on before it primes.

Is there a master relay under the dash or hood that controls the coil or something? I swear I heard a relay clicking before but not now.

I know the CKP sensor will cause a "no start" situation and I thought it was that but now I can tell if the car will start or not as soon as I turn the key to the "on" position, so it can't be that.
Is there a main relay that I can check somewhere?
 

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The starter. Jump the car. Doesn't matter if the battery is tight and clean. The battery itself could be taking a **** or has a low charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That doesn't make any sense. The battery is a year old and cranks STRONG.
 

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Unplug the battery "-" terminal. then tighten it back on then try again. if it doesnt work try jump starting.
Could be a pats system problem. Is the key chipped and programmed to the car?
 

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A 2 week old battery could **** the bed just as good as a 10 year old battery, further more it could crank and crank and crank all day, but if those cranks aren't putting out a certain level of power it wont start. Especially if something is ****ing it like the alternator. In my past experience with cars that clicking sound is usually the solenoid for the starter, could be an easy $20 part to check and replace (though from memory I cant actually remember even noticing if mustangs have one in the same respect as the other cars im thinking of)

Also if its a standard bomb start it and see if itle start that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A 2 week old battery could **** the bed just as good as a 10 year old battery, further more it could crank and crank and crank all day, but if those cranks aren't putting out a certain level of power it wont start. Especially if something is ****ing it like the alternator. In my past experience with cars that clicking sound is usually the solenoid for the starter, could be an easy $20 part to check and replace (though from memory I cant actually remember even noticing if mustangs have one in the same respect as the other cars im thinking of)

Also if its a standard bomb start it and see if itle start that way.

It's NOT a selenoid clicking sound. I know what that sounds like.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Unplug the battery "-" terminal. then tighten it back on then try again. if it doesnt work try jump starting.
Could be a pats system problem. Is the key chipped and programmed to the car?
I don't know if the '00 mustangs came with chipped keys or not. I'll try unplugging the negative terminal the next time it decides not to start, which could be who knows when.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A 2 week old battery could **** the bed just as good as a 10 year old battery, further more it could crank and crank and crank all day, but if those cranks aren't putting out a certain level of power it wont start. Especially if something is ****ing it like the alternator. In my past experience with cars that clicking sound is usually the solenoid for the starter, could be an easy $20 part to check and replace (though from memory I cant actually remember even noticing if mustangs have one in the same respect as the other cars im thinking of)

Also if its a standard bomb start it and see if itle start that way.
FYI, Ford no longer uses the fender mount selenoid. It's mounted on the started like the GM cars always did.
 

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FYI, Ford no longer uses the fender mount selenoid. It's mounted on the started like the GM cars always did.
Yeah, ever since I wrote that first post in this thread I've been trying to remember seeing the solenoid and I couldn't, lol.
 

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2000 have chipped keys. Mines chipped
 

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Discussion Starter #11
2000 have chipped keys. Mines chipped
Yeah, I looked it up and found that out after I posted that. Does the PATS system sometimes screw up like that? (work one day and not the next)
 

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Yeah, I looked it up and found that out after I posted that. Does the PATS system sometimes screw up like that? (work one day and not the next)
Yep. I'd say PATS biggest flaw is that it sometimes decides to **** up your day and your wallet.
 

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If it's cranking strong I don't think it's the battery or the starter.

Is there a way to check the PATS?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What does Ford usually charge to reset the PATS system or make another key?

If I am correct, the "theft" light will either blink rapidly or stay solid, with the key in the RUN/START if there is a problem with the PATS system? I'm looking for a way to rule out that problem if possible.
 

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Fee Fie Foe Fum
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I am still dealing w a pats issue... To the point after the dealer taking $200 from me and still couldnt figure it out I pulled my motor and waiting to finish my swap before taking the car to have it tuned completely out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just now read online that disconnecting the negative battery terminal for one hour should clear the DTC codes if the PCM is not disabled.
 

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I paid 100.00 for ford to reset mine. plus 100.00 tow.
is your theft light flashing or not.
If its pats you may be able to clear with SCT if you have one
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I paid 100.00 for ford to reset mine. plus 100.00 tow.
is your theft light flashing or not.
If its pats you may be able to clear with SCT if you have one
I went out and it started. I did not notice the "theft" light flashing. I turned the key to "run" first before I started it. The light came on(solid) for a few seconds and then when out.

It might not decide to start an hour from now though. I have it narrowed down to either the fuel pump going bad, PATS, or CKP sensor but I kinda ruled that out for now.

There is a noticably louder "hum" sound when the key is turned to "run" and the car starts than when it doesn't start. When the car doesn't start, the "humming" sound is not quite as loud and fails to start. I can tell if the car will start or not now without having to actually start the car.
 

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I went out and it started. I did not notice the "theft" light flashing. I turned the key to "run" first before I started it. The light came on(solid) for a few seconds and then when out.

It might not decide to start an hour from now though. I have it narrowed down to either the fuel pump going bad, PATS, or CKP sensor but I kinda ruled that out for now.

There is a noticably louder "hum" sound when the key is turned to "run" and the car starts than when it doesn't start. When the car doesn't start, the "humming" sound is not quite as loud and fails to start. I can tell if the car will start or not now without having to actually start the car.
when you first get in car the theft light is flashing,(normal) turn key to on and light stays on a few seconds then goes off,(normal)
I think your looking in the right direction with pump, or just a stab in the dark but maybe fuel filter plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It always fails to start after it's been shut off. It's never just quit on me while driving and it runs great when it does run.
 
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