[jonwrong]

First, I have read at least 10 threads on this issue. I know they are out there. My problem is no one has specifically identified the right glue/adhesive and/or technique so I can complete the repair. The issue caused my window to roll to high so that it hits the roof when closing the door.

I have re-glued this thing twice now, and they both failed fairly quickly. I tried to find the right product from other threads with no help. Thanks!

 

[rex11]

I tried several types of epoxy without success. Finally I took some thin wire and wrapped it around the regulator and a metal tab that is on the window close to where it sits on the regulator. Then tightened tight with pliers. It has held up fine for over two years. If you think that sounds fishy you could always try some type of strong slow curing epoxy and use the wire to hold it in place long enough for it to cure completely. The wire worked good enough for me, it just makes an tiny clank when it rolls up, so not factory perfect.

 

[Jazzer The Cat]

OK..... I just did this repair a month or so ago :yes

The bracket is a funky one and ALL the pressure is placed on the rear of it, while the only support is way up on the other end. I ended up using 3 small bolts/nuts and drilled through the braket and to the small bracket behind it. The circumference of the screws I installed is only about 1.5" or so, but is very strong considering the way it had to be done.

If you have seen these brackets up close, you will be able to figure it out. If not, there is no possible way I can explain it better.

Jazzer

 

[jonwrong]

OK..... I just did this repair a month or so ago :yes

The bracket is a funky one and ALL the pressure is placed on the rear of it, while the only support is way up on the other end. I ended up using 3 small bolts/nuts and drilled through the braket and to the small bracket behind it. The circumference of the screws I installed is only about 1.5" or so, but is very strong considering the way it had to be done.

If you have seen these brackets up close, you will be able to figure it out. If not, there is no possible way I can explain it better.

Jazzer

Ok, Jazzer. You have to be more specific... Below is a pic of the bracket I took from out of the car. It is facing you just like it would if it were installed in the door. It is the bracket closest to the rear of the car on the driver's side. The roller rides in the vertical post obviously. Where did you drill the holes? Did you use any glue at all? Did you drill the glass? I have had it with this POS. The glass is still in the car. I drilled the pop rivet out, which was the hole in the very bottom right of the photo. It was loose. I read somewhere that a nut and bolt there is better b/c the rivet allow the bracket to rotate and put even more pressure on the rear.

Again, where are these bolts you speak of? I don't see anywhere to do that other than to the bracket itself possibly.

 

[Jazzer The Cat]

OK, I took your pic and added some dots to represent where to drill the small holes for new bolts/nuts and outlined the "stop" bracket for those to see what is happening here:

The problem, for those reading this, is the bulk of the window is to the RH side of this bracket and moves up/down with the window. The "stop" is to the LH side (outlined in white) while the OEM pivot (hole where rivet connecting to window motor in the door) was) is to the RH side of bracket. When the window is rolled up, the "stop" hits a stationary tab in the door and ends up pulling on the adheasive holding the window in the groove running side to side along the top of the bracket (See "A"). This happens, because the motor is still rolling up (assuming you don't let go of switch yet) and the entire bracket pivots on the single hole over on the RH side. At this point, the point at which the rivet is connected to the motor, just keeps traveling upward, as the window is ripped out of the adheasive . This is why the window hits the roof and what mine did. I had to be careful NOT to roll the window up all the way until I fixed it. I ended up installing the small bolts where the white dots are and re-glued the window with silicone adheasive. The drivers side did not have this issue.... YET!, so I went ahead and opened it up and installed three bolts/nuts in the exact same way.

Those three little bolts add shear strength to the bolster the single rivet and works perfectly :yes

Jazzer

 

[GtUnit]

Lol i have same problem i i used this white rubber cement its like 4$ at walmart they are the long tubes where u use a gune to press the paste out

Its been 3 months and everything seems to hold

 

[mrbigjeep]

i just did this today on my 94gt. the bracket had come off and so the back of the window was just loose and flopping...

i just cleaned it real good and used JB weld to hold it on lol...we shall see how it holds. i used the JB weld, rolled the window up a few minutes later and will leave it rolled up for a couple days so it can dry super good

 

[jonwrong]

Thanks for the great advice Jazzer.

 

[jonwrong]

I have had more of an opportunity to comment after completing the repair and driving around for a few days. Jazzer's fix is 100% the only way to fix this permanently. I used three 2.5mmx12mm bolts and nuts with a washer on each side. I used blue loctite as well.


To glue the window, I used E-6000 available at Michel's craft store and most super Wal-marts. If you google gluing glass to metal, it is highly recommended. And it did the job. This is the third time I have glue this, and the only one that lasted more than 6 roll-ups. I hope others find this thread in the future and can avoid the headache.

 

[Jazzer The Cat]

Happy to help :yes

Jazzer

 

[jonwrong]

E6000 and screws still holding strong!

 

[timmaayy2323]

i can fix it pm me if u still need help

 

[Silver GT]

I hate to revive an old thread, but I didn't want to start a new one and try to explain this, so my question is, can I do what Jazzer suggested with the factory rivet still in place, or do I need to remove it before I put the 3 screws in?

 

[lowstang]

pm me if you need help been doing auto glass for a long time

 

[kweimer]

pm me if you need help been doing auto glass for a long time

Can you please help me out? driver side window keeps coming out of the metal holders on bottom of window. Have tried epoxy, e6000 and super glue.....any suggestions as to good adhesive?

Kevin Weimer

 

[jonwrong]

Can you please help me out? driver side window keeps coming out of the metal holders on bottom of window. Have tried epoxy, e6000 and super glue.....any suggestions as to good adhesive?

Kevin Weimer

Did you replace the rivet with four small screws to keep it from becoming a pivot point. That is the trick. My repair is still going strong without issue using this method and E-6000.

 

[Scottydsntknow]

Thread necro... or I guess someone else already necro'd it.

I'm in the same boat. And I'm in Europe and don't want to risk (or have to) buy all new glass with the revised full bottom brackets that eliminate this issue completely.

So... I'll probably have to Amazon in the E6000 but what is the point of the 4 bolts again? I had this whole thing apart yesterday but I cannot visualize it... like... you need the regulator to pivot at that point so the window can go up and down right? Or am I missing something? My door glass is in perfect shape its just these goddamn brackets on BOTH windows to the point I don't want to drive the car until I get a permanent fix. If that means I need to do 2 new windows so I know its good to go then I will (and hope they survive milair shipping) but I'm open to a $10 fix instead...

Also how do you get the 4 screws into the front bracket or do you just leave that one? Seems like that done doesn't need it...

My other issue is that the front bumpstop bracket just completely ripped off both sides too... Would the E6000 be strong enough to hold that on? Again, this would be remedied by the new 1 piece window design.

I guess I might as well order it and give it a shot but I'm still confused about the 4 holes and how that works. I guess I'll have to pull the door panel off again and I'd probably be able to figure it out.

And I'm guessing 5-6 years after the original post the fix is still going strong or do you not have this car anymore?

Thanks, sorry for all the questions.

 

[ZEN357]

Either JB Weld it or Liquid Nails FuzeIt.

 

[Scottydsntknow]

I ordered the E6000 from Amazon, it'll take about a week to get here MilAir... I'll have to pop the door panel off again to see if I can understand what the bolt setup they are talking about does.

And if not... $200 for new glass and never worry about it again. Bleh.

 

[Eagle2000GT]

jonwrong, welcome back. It's been three years since you've posted. If I recall you had over 100,000 miles on your Saleen supercharger back then. I had over 100,000 on my ProCharger. How's that Saleen doing?