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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got my car back last night from getting the hood repainted (under warrenty), stealer had it for four days. The sevice rep told me "we did the hood repaint but could not get to the rattle in the door around the window switch, you'll have to bring it back". Last night on the way home I put the window down and now the damn thing goes all the way up and then half way back down. It must be that stupid safety switch. Problem is now I Have to play with switch to get the window all the way up and I have to do it from the passenger side seat after parking the car, the door wont close from the outside when I do it from the driver side because of the window gasket.:wtf
Car is going in tomorrow morning AGAIN, I am so ****ing tired of this, I am gonna puke.........:puke
Sorry, end of rant..............................
 

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I hate ford dealerships!!!!! We should buy our stangs factory direct!!!!! Mine goes in on Monday for 4 days to take away a dint those bastards did!!!
 

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You just need to do the power window calibration procedure. I believe it's described in the owners manual. I forget the exact sequence, but raise the window all the way up and continue to hold the switch in the up position for about 5 seconds. Then lower the window and continue to hold the switch down for about 5 seconds. I could have those steps reversed - don't remember for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You just need to do the power window calibration procedure. I believe it's described in the owners manual. I forget the exact sequence, but raise the window all the way up and continue to hold the switch in the up position for about 5 seconds. Then lower the window and continue to hold the switch down for about 5 seconds. I could have those steps reversed - don't remember for sure.
Thanks, I'll try that tonight:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looked around on the internet, apparently this is a common problem with our Mustangs. Here are the Ford instructions for re-programming the power windows.

ISSUE:
Some 2005-2007 Mustang vehicles may exhibit issues with the functional
power window features including one touch up, short drop, and bounce back.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition if the root
cause is incorrect or no window initialization of the Smart Window Motor.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Perform a de-initialization procedure of the smart motor / side window
glass, followed by re-initialization procedure.

NOTE: WINDOW RE-INITIALIZATION MUST BE PERFORMED WITH THE DOORS CLOSED.



NOTE: ON [COLOR=blue! important]CONVERTIBLES, WINDOWS COULD BOUNCE BACK IF THE SIDE GLASS IS OUT[/color]
OF ADJUSTMENT. REFER TO THE WORKSHOP MANUAL (WSM), SECTION 501-11.



NOTE: CHECK TO MAKE SURE THAT THE DOOR SEAL OR MIRROR SEAL IS NOT ROLLED
OVER OR BINDING. ALSO, THAT THERE IS NO OBSTRUCTION IN GLASS SEALING AREAAND THE GLASS FITAND/OR REGULATOR MECHANICAL FASTENING IS NOT LOOSE.



DE-INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE

De-initialization (un-learning) of the smart window motor clears the
memory of the module and shuts off the One-Touch UP, Bounce Back and Short
Drop functions.
The smart window motors can be de-initialized in two (2) different ways:
Disconnect the battery cable from the battery WHILE THE WINDOW IS MOVING.
Remove the window motor fuse from the Power Distribution Box WHILE THE
WINDOW IS MOVING.
After performing one of the above procedures, the smart motor must be
re-initialized, see Initialization Procedure.
INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE

INITIALIZATION MUST BE PERFORMED WITH THE DOOR CLOSED! (For convertibles,
top and the quarter glass must be in the up / closed position.)
From the window switch, perform the following steps without stopping:
Operate the window UP and stall for 2 seconds. (Hold The Switch)
Operate the window DOWN and stall for 2 seconds. (Hold The Switch)
The smart window motor will be initialized and one-touch-UP and Short Drop
will be operational.
Cycle the window glass an additional five (5) times to set the window
"Soft Stop" for the down position.
TIP - VOLTAGE RANGE OF OPERATION: 9-16 VOLTS (AT THE MOTOR)

The smart motor will ONLY function in the 9-16 volt range; if the voltage
at the smart motor drops below 9 volts, the window may not function
properly or prematurely stop moving
If the voltage drops below 9 volts while the motor is moving, the motor
will become de-initialized (one-touch UP and Short Drop will be
inoperable)
If the motor becomes de-initialized due to low voltage, see initialization
procedure. for instructions
 

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Mine is going in on monday for transmission locking, Dash acting crazy, and to get my trunk light cover replaced since I found out the ****ers must've broke one of the clips when they fixed my trunk lock.
 

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Where's the Brake Pedal?
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Hate to bump a 5 year old post, but I swear this happened to me this morning. Looked around for a few tips on the web and ran in to this...gonna go try and see if this works. The last time I drove they worked just fine. Go out this morning to go to my uncles and they wont roll down...so mad right now. I'll be back with results on whether or not the above procedure helps.

EDIT: No dice. The battery is reading fine on the power, the windows just wont roll down. There are no clicks or anything that I can hear when using the switches. This sounds like it could wind up being expensive.
 

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Mine is gonna have to go in to have the damn dash leak fixed.
If your dash leak is water on the passenger side floor just remove that plastic cowl cover below the windshield and unclog the drain down in there on the passenger side. Leaf debris gets in there.
 
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