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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the car with the engine as is, but have pieced together some info, thanks to a weepy head gasket.
70's heavy metal block, supposed to be same casting as a Mexican block
Flat top 4 valve relief pistons, 30 over
Converted to roller, with small base, unverified Comp cam, good lope
Gt40x heads, 62cc upgraded with better springs
1 5/8 LT headers , 2.5" H-pipe dumped
RPM Performer intake
Holley 650 DP
MSD box and Distributor
T-5 5 speed

Any educated guesses on what I'll put down?
I'm guessing 265/280 is what it is now, maybe there is more waiting to come out.

I currently limit RPM's to 6200, seems to start dropping power at around 6000.
The guy tuning said he thought it should rev a little higher, any thoughts?

Have really been thinking about new heads. Am I thinking right in that Twisted Wedge's probably won't work for me? Due to inline valve relief pistons with bigger cam. Making AFR 185's my best choice.

My old car had 2.73's that I upgraded to 4.10's. I thought they were a bit low. This car has 3.55's, I'm not to unhappy with them, but they still have a big spread. I couldn't bring myself to just upgrade to 3.73's so I got 3.90's . Hopefully they'll be the Mullet of gears, get the business done when need be, but be there to party when the time is right :naughty:
anyone know which speedo gear I'll need?

What do you think the car could run with a decent tire?
 

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Trick Flow 170s will work with stock pistons. In fact, they're the only head that allows you to run a 2.02 valve and a decent sized cam with stock pistons. With the AFR 185s you'd have to notch the pistons if your cam is decent. Even if both heads fit, I'd pick the trick flow 170s still.

Without knowing what cam is in your engine, I would say your guess is a good one. I'd say 260rwhp myself. My turd put down 293rwhp/311ftlbs with performer heads, b cam and a ported explorer intake with all the bolt ons; 73mm MAF/70mm throttle body/long tubes/h pipe etc.

With a Tire and 410s I can see you pulling off some 12.70s if you're a driving mofo. Most likely 12.90s/13.10s. Somewhere in that range on a slick.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Trick Flow 170s will work with stock pistons.
I don't have stock ones, though. They are inline notched .30 over flat tops. Which is why I don't think the 170's will work.
 

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I don't have stock ones, though. They are inline notched .30 over flat tops. Which is why I don't think the 170's will work.
Im so tired... Totally missed the 30 over comment.

The only thing is your intake valve relief would have to be notched to accommodate the twisted wedge valve placement. I see your predicament now, though. If I were stuck on getting a 20* (inline) cylinder Head for a 306, I'd go ahead and grab some Dart Pro 1's. The 190cc versions... Bret Bauer (a cam grinder) quoted me at 1600 for a pair of those heads. Mind you that price included a full valve train to match his cam and also a little bit a bowl work, hand blending and milling/spring install.

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And I didn't mean the CNC version of the dart pro 1's. Those are like 1900 for the pair, without specific valve train and what-not.

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Are the trick flow high ports inline valves or are the staggered too ?

I know we have gotton past this point but id like to say that if i had a choice between trick flow 170s and AFR 185s id go with AFR. Now.... if i had a choice between Trick flow 185 or AFR 185 id go with trick flow.
 

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For what it's worth, I ran those specs through Dyno2003. Of course, the cam is the wildcard, but for a good street profile cam w.510 lift I got 289 hp estimate. With a bigger street/strip .550 cam ... 335 hp.
 

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Are the trick flow high ports inline valves or are the staggered too ?

I know we have gotton past this point but id like to say that if i had a choice between trick flow 170s and AFR 185s id go with AFR. Now.... if i had a choice between Trick flow 185 or AFR 185 id go with trick flow.
High ports are inline. They have a 20 degree valve angle. BUT you need custom headers for them.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Of course, the cam is the wildcard, but for a good street profile cam w.510 lift I got 289 hp estimate. With a bigger street/strip .550 cam ... 335 hp.
I would be very happy with the 289. Because of options available I would say it's closer to the bigger cam.

Curious about the Dart's. My buddy runs them on his Chevy, but they don't seem real popular for the Ford. Why would those be better then the AFR's?

Here's the heads I've been looking at Ford 302 351 KCR Ported afr 185 Heads | eBay, AFR SBF 185, supposed to be in house CNCed with upgraded valvetrain.

I don't have a budget for heads, within reason, If there's better heads for an extra 500 I would get them. But I would prefer not to replace my 3 week old headers....
 

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I would be very happy with the 289. Because of options available I would say it's closer to the bigger cam.

Curious about the Dart's. My buddy runs them on his Chevy, but they don't seem real popular for the Ford. Why would those be better then the AFR's?

Here's the heads I've been looking at Ford 302 351 KCR Ported afr 185 Heads | eBay, AFR SBF 185, supposed to be in house CNCed with upgraded valvetrain.

I don't have a budget for heads, within reason, If there's better heads for an extra 500 I would get them. But I would prefer not to replace my 3 week old headers....
Im not quite sure why the Darts over the AFR's. The cam grinder I was speaking with said they are one of the better 20 degree castings. I tend to believe him... He's a smart man. He did a custom solid roller for a stock bottom end/stock head 6.0 LS and it made 650hp....he's good at what he does.

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Without the cam specs everyone is pissing in the wind. Secodly, no performance piston worth a **** has 4 valve reliefs for a fird, so your camshaft isnt thatbig in the lift department imho, but again, that is an assumption. Thirdly, a mexican block is a mexican block, all others carry the same weakness gene as the roller emgines. Make sure your gear installer has installed motive gears with success in the past before letting him tear into it. If he doesnt have a specual pinion depth tool and a dial caliper, your gear will howl like a coyote. I bought the tool and will set them up, but I hate to do them over the ford gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I wish I knew the cam specs. I would just get one ground, but that means getting link lifters, Which doubles the price, for a bottom end that I really don't have a clue about. Makes me leary. Tentative plan is to put heads on this, then get a 347 shortblock put together to meet my final goal. Mid to low 12's on a street tire setup, maybe mid to high 11's if I was on a tire.

Thirdly, a mexican block is a mexican block, all others carry the same weakness gene as the roller emgines.
Do you believe what makes a Mexican block special is it's nickel content?
With a search of my block # ( D8ve-6015-a3a) this is what I turned up
after aquiring a D1ZM Mexican block, 2 D8VE 302 blocks and a 69 302 block: All four castings are identical except for the bolt bosses found on the front of the Mex blocks and the crankshaft position sensor boss found on the D8VE blocks above the rear main bearing. That plus this: Both the Mex block and the D8VE-6015-A3A have the beefier main caps. The D8VE-6015-3A casting has the std main caps. The 69 C8OE block is in every respect the same as the Mex block, except for the missing bolt bosses in front and the std main caps. I weighed all 4 blocks(completely bare with the main caps bolted down) and all four weighed in at 134-136 pounds. The lighter weight was due to the 60 overbore of the D8VE-A3A. Both the C8OE and the D8VE-3A weighed 135 pounds, which is attributed to the std main caps. As far as these compared to the 86-2001 roller blocks, these year's roller blocks weigh 10 pounds less (126 pounds) The 302 blocks to avoid like the plague are the 1980-85 blocks, these weigh in at 120-122 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally got it back.272/285


I'm happy with that torque curve, he said it took alot of tuning to get it there. Started out around 245hp. He used a Dynomax dyno, supposedly on a Dynojet it would be around 12% higher.
 

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He of Long Wind
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Finally got it back.272/285
For the record, I'd like to note that my guess was the closest. :)

Assuming a race weight of roughly 3,100 lbs. with driver, that should get you into the mid-13's (13.1 max - if you don't slip a tire and you shift like Flash Gordon).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For the record, I'd like to note that my guess was the closest.
:kneel

I'm gonna weigh it today. Not slipping a tire is gonna be hard, she's wanting to let go with 2nd gear rolls, now.
 

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For the record, I'd like to note that my guess was the closest. :)

Assuming a race weight of roughly 3,100 lbs. with driver, that should get you into the mid-13's (13.1 max - if you don't slip a tire and you shift like Flash Gordon).
It'll go faster than that.... Lol.

I asked my chassis guy how fast a car like mine can go with 350hp at the crank (which is what I have) and he said "into the 11s if everything works right". So I think he could bust off mid 12s with some practice.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Weighed it, 3020 empty,3200 with me. It had a half tank, around 100#'s of stereo stuff, spare tire, jack, tool kit, ac, power windows, a console full of change, ect. If I were going to the track and emptied it I could get it down to around 3000 with me.
The calculators, which I know aren't accurate for et, say a 12.9 at 105
 

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Yeah, I wish I knew the cam specs. I would just get one ground, but that means getting link lifters, Which doubles the price, for a bottom end that I really don't have a clue about. Makes me leary. Tentative plan is to put heads on this, then get a 347 shortblock put together to meet my final goal. Mid to low 12's on a street tire setup, maybe mid to high 11's if I was on a tire.

Do you believe what makes a Mexican block special is it's nickel content?
With a search of my block # ( D8ve-6015-a3a) this is what I turned up
You didnt post a casting number on your block, you just said 70's heavy metal block, whatever that means. And if you search the web enough, you can find what you want to hear. The caps and metal of a mexican block have withstood a lot of power, but none of them compare to a dart block.

Those are decent numbers for your combo. My friend james just went a 12.4 with 260 rwhp in a coupe with slicks and suspension. Stock camshaft. So you should go quicker with some effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm not sure where I picked up the heavy metal thing, probably from the 80's, referring to the older blocks. I didn't/don't really have a clue about the block I have, and I guess really it doesn't matter, other then it's not the stock 84 block.

I'd love to get it down to those times. It's just to bad the track closed down here last year. Makes finding out alot harder.
 

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My 82 Capri made 248rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics dyno, & ran 7.83 1/[email protected] 1/4 the 1st time out, later went 7.69 1/8th with a swap from 3.73 to 4.10 gears!
 
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