That question comes up often in these forums and unfortunately, there is some bad information circulating the internet on the virtues of disconnecting the EGR. Your car will actually work better with the EGR connected and if the EGR is working properly, it can reduce the tendency for the engine to knock under part throttle load. If you have some kind of tuner, such as a Tweecer or a Moates, you can disable the EGR quite easily, but other than that, there are no easy ways of doing what you want to do, that I’m aware of.
If you do the following, you can delete the system while keeping it intact and you will NOT have a check engine light.
Disconnect the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold, you can place a penny over the EGR port on the exhaust manifold and then screw that EGR tube back onto the exhaust manifold port.
The second step is to unbolt the EGR valve from the upper intake, place a dime into the open port of the EGR gasket and bolt the EGR valve back onto the upper intake.
For 11 cents you have effectively prevented hot exhaust gases from entering the upper intake and prevented a possible vacuum leak at the upper intake all while keeping that emissions system visually intact.
For what its worth, I am still getting 30mpg highway and 22-25mpg city with the EGR deleted like this. My tube is completely removed though because I couldn't get it unscrewed from the EGR valve.
If the EGR valve is blocked off but sticks open, it is still likely to generate a check engine code, so I don't think that is going to solve your particular problem. It might be a good idea to remove the valve and see if you can clean it, so at least it will cycle and if you decide that you still want block it off you can, but just re-install the valve in place with the sensor still attached and it might not trip a code again.