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Discussion Starter #1
ok went to the track yesterday and looked like a crazy man behind the wheel cause my car would not stop drifting due to rear end torque steer. i have been looking into a few combo's to combat the issue i have. one is the base line pro launch 2 relocated uppers with the pro launch track locater for the top and putting torque box re-inforcements in. i have the upr ajustible lower control arms with spherical rod ends on one side and a solid bushing at the axle housing. also i was going to buy a new rear sway bar since i dont have one right now. i looked into the mm torque arm and panhard bar combo but last time i talked to them they were not to crazy about how much power my car makes so i am not going to go that way. any other advice would really help since i really dont feel like crashing my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
tires is not my problem, im running hooser 26x10x15 drag slicks. there is always a little drift when running slicks but it gets real bad once i get in the top speed range.
 

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Just get a rear sway bar...i never had that problem b4...

And I dont think its called torque steer lol when I read the thread I thought it was about a honda lmao...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just get a rear sway bar...i never had that problem b4...

And I dont think its called torque steer lol when I read the thread I thought it was about a honda lmao...
Yeah im going to try the new rear sway bar. I hate how they hang down so low with after market control arms.

On the torque steer name I was not sure what to call it. Pretty much the ass end steering. Gets a little freaky over 100
 

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How much power are you putting down?

Has the car ever been in an accident in the rear?

I would also get it aligned at a GOOD alignment shop, preferably, one that works on race cars. Shouldn't be getting all squirly like that. The alignment shop will tell you if everything is square, front to rear, side to side. If things are out of square, you can throw all kinds of bars back there, and its not going to help.

I'm sure you check your tire pressure before each run, right?

Thats my .02
 

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I lol'd when i saw torque steer in the title.

So your spinning? Are you sure both wheels are spinning? For some reason i HIGHLY doubt your just spinning BOTH drag slicks to 100mph. Your clutchs might be worn out in your rear or something allowing only 1 to spin. Iv got the same issue with my car...its got 130k on it
 

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How much power are you putting down?

Has the car ever been in an accident in the rear?

I would also get it aligned at a GOOD alignment shop, preferably, one that works on race cars. Shouldn't be getting all squirly like that. The alignment shop will tell you if everything is square, front to rear, side to side. If things are out of square, you can throw all kinds of bars back there, and its not going to help.

I'm sure you check your tire pressure before each run, right?

Thats my .02
That in no way sounds like an alignment issue lol he didnt say it was pulling left or right. Just that it was spinning
 

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I had the same problem when I tried to run without a rear swaybar. You need the rear one, or get an ARB
 

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Here's my set-up. Notice the lack of swaybar. I run a 28x11.5x15 Hoosier QTP, built on the same mold as the 28x10 slicks. Even with
the taller tire I have very little sway on the big end with trap speeds of 123mph or so. I did have some severe sway with a 8" wheels but it mostly cleared up when moving to a 10" wheel. If I were the OP I would look into an airbag and check the rear axle location,:cool:


Fox-body V8 rear springs (cut)
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
Airbag in RR spring
No rear swaybar
UPR sub-frame connectors
UPR Pro Series Lower Control Arms, solid/spherical ends
UPR Pro Series adjustable uppers, spherical ends
Jegs Poly axle bushings
Torque boxes welded
No quad shocks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's my set-up. Notice the lack of swaybar. I run a 28x11.5x15 Hoosier QTP, built on the same mold as the 28x10 slicks. Even with
the taller tire I have very little sway on the big end with trap speeds of 123mph or so. I did have some severe sway with a 8" wheels but it mostly cleared up when moving to a 10" wheel. If I were the OP I would look into an airbag and check the rear axle location,:cool:


Fox-body V8 rear springs (cut)
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
Airbag in RR spring
No rear swaybar
UPR sub-frame connectors
UPR Pro Series Lower Control Arms, solid/spherical ends
UPR Pro Series adjustable uppers, spherical ends
Jegs Poly axle bushings
Torque boxes welded
No quad shocks
You and I have identical setups. As for the diff, I am running a 31spline detroit true track.
 

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You and I have identical setups. As for the diff, I am running a 31spline detroit true track.
True track for me too. Are you running a 10" wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I checked the tire pressure before every run. I ran plenty of air 15#'s
 

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Yes a 15x10 with a 6.5bs
The car should go straight if the rear axle was centered when the control arms were installed. A couple of other things come to mind as well as I've experianced both. One is a 1 pound difference in tire pressure left to right can cause swaying. Another is driver hand/arm position. I've found the only way to drive a stick car and not have the shifts effect the steering arm is to plant the left elbow hard into to armrest pocket with the hand on the wheel at 9 o'clock. This helped me so it's worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The car should go straight if the rear axle was centered when the control arms were installed. A couple of other things come to mind as well as I've experianced both. One is a 1 pound difference in tire pressure left to right can cause swaying. Another is driver hand/arm position. I've found the only way to drive a stick car and not have the shifts effect the steering arm is to plant the left elbow hard into to armrest pocket with the hand on the wheel at 9 o'clock. This helped me so it's worth a try.
Your not the only one to tell me about the hand position thing. I may try that. It could be me
 

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Your not the only one to tell me about the hand position thing. I may try that. It could be me
It should help. You don't need to move that wheel much to get that baby going and once it does it just keeps swaying. lol Also, shift with the arm, not your shoulder and torso. I've seen some guys at the track look like they're trying to rip that shifter outta the floor. Use finesse not power. :D
 

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Just get a rear sway bar...i never had that problem b4...

And I dont think its called torque steer lol when I read the thread I thought it was about a honda lmao...
Lmao, me too.


Torque steer is scary.....had many instances of that in my 92' turbo sentra. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok may have found some of the problems today. torque boxes looked ok and everything under the car looked bolted tight unitll i looked at on of my upper control arms. the jam nuts worked loose and i think one may have been slightly longer than the other. ill pull them out and measure them next week. another thing is the front tire pressures were out of wack. my passenger side tire was at 34 psi and the driver side was at 22 psi. pretty sure that would have made my car pull one way. i ordered a new sway bar for the rear and i will get my torque boxes welded up monday. going to try a few things to help out. i noticed my shocks are a little hard so my car does not squat so much on take off so im going to order ajustible ones along with a air bag and base line uppers and track locater bar. hope that helps. if not im going to pull everything and install a 5 link.
 

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just fix the torque boxes and get the sway bars b4 you spend the money on the unneeded stuff...i promise you those 2 things willl stop the sway...
 
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