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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan on building a motor for my '04 GT over the next year or so and putting it in next winter. I have been researching but I'm really confused on how to go about this build. Like everyone else, I want to do it as cheap as possible, but still have a motor that is capable of about 800 rwhp (I'm not going to ever have that much, the distant future plans are ~600 rwhp) I already have a D1SC on my GT, so obviously I want to be able to use that on the new motor (hopefully without having to buy new piping or mounting bracket, but idk if i'll be able to get away with that).

My main question is what block to start the build with. I dont know which ones will work with my tranny, supercharger, and wiring. I'm so confused on what parts work with what blocks and how much hp each can hold it's not even funny. Here are some options:

Stock GT Block - I can probably get one of these pretty cheap and it'd basically drop right in to my car. How much hp can they hold?

03/04 Termi block - I can pick one of these up for $100. I don't know how much of my stuff I could use with it, but MMR uses these in their builds so... Plus it's gotta be strong if they put them in termi's. I'm worried about the weight of the iron block though.

Teksid Block - Aluminum block would be nice to shave some weight off the front end, and teksids are really strong (I've heard 1000+ hp). Again, I'm worried it working with the tranny/supercharger/wiring that's already in my car.

I've heard that the block out of the newer GTs are strong and aluminum, but I don't know if I'd want to get into that...

Anything even close to helpful will be rep worthy, so post away! Thanks a lot guys, I'm not sure what I'd do without this site :D
 

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teksid.

/thread
 

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If you can get a termi block for 100, that might be a way to go. Personally i would go with a teksid for wieght saving, actually any alum. 4.6l block would hold the power(teksid,wap,05+). the teksid will bolt right in your car and accept all your acc. the only thing different is the parts required for the timing chains/guides and drill one cooling hole. not a big issue on either
 

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The block is not the weak point(stock block with some care can go north of 1000), the rods are. If you want 600-800 hp pick up a good forged rotating asembaly from mmr or other reutable companies. If you can get an aluminum block for weight reduction that would be ideal as our blocks are heavy for the strut tower design. Unlike popular belief, the curent production aluminum block is the strogest 4.6 block produced and are cheaper and more abundant than a teksid. Both are kick ass though. As far as compatibility, your trans and wiring should be fine unless you have some custom setup?
 

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the teksid block is more than capable of handling the amount of power you desire and you get weight savings to boot. it would probably be the best choice if you had one out of those 3 blocks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you can get a termi block for 100, that might be a way to go. Personally i would go with a teksid for wieght saving, actually any alum. 4.6l block would hold the power(teksid,wap,05+). the teksid will bolt right in your car and accept all your acc. the only thing different is the parts required for the timing chains/guides and drill one cooling hole. not a big issue on either
The block is not the weak point(stock block with some care can go north of 1000), the rods are. If you want 600-800 hp pick up a good forged rotating asembaly from mmr or other reutable companies. If you can get an aluminum block for weight reduction that would be ideal as our blocks are heavy for the strut tower design. Unlike popular belief, the curent production aluminum block is the strogest 4.6 block produced and are cheaper and more abundant than a teksid. Both are kick ass though. As far as compatibility, your trans and wiring should be fine unless you have some custom setup?
Yep, I plan on doing all forged internals once I get my block, but i'm just taking this one step at a time.

What is the weight difference between a teksid and termi block? If I can't find a cheaper aluminum block I might have to go with the termi, but I'd love to save that weight

Will the new aluminum 4.6s bolt right in like a teksid would?

Am I going to have to get different heads if I went with a teksid/termi/newGT motor or could I just port my PI heads and put them on these motors?

Are any of these blocks going to accept my supercharger mounting bracket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the teksid block is more than capable of handling the amount of power you desire and you get weight savings to boot. it would probably be the best choice if you had one out of those 3 blocks
It's nice to see you redeem yourself with proper reasoning ;) I'd like a teksid but I can get a termi for $100 and there might be more of the newer aluminum 4.6s available, making them cheaper.
 

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all of the above blocks will mount just fine and you can modd it to use your heads. However, you might as well use the 3 or 4V heads while you are at it. 3V heads will be more abundant, I found my 3V engine complete for $1000. I am sure you can fing a wrecked Gt with some usable heads
 

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if you can get a termi block for $100 it really isnt much of a choice. if your only deciding on the motor ignoring the price, then the teksid is the way to go but if its at the cost of multiple times the expense then is it truly worth it? its not me to say that but up to you to decide
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm gonna call MMR tonight and question them about all these things regarding a termi block since that's what they use for their 600-900 hp shortblocks. My sister works at a salvage yard so I'll see if she can find any newer mustangs or older cobras/mark VIIIs that would have an aluminum block and see how prices turn out. It'd be nice to get that extra 80lbs off the front suspension, but for $300 I don't know if it's worth it.

Does anyone know if my supercharger mounting bracket is going to work on any of these blocks? I think you need a different one even if you have a 99 GT vs an 04 GT, so I'm guessing I'll have to get a different one for each of these blocks...
 

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i would say if its $300 vs $100 id go with the slightly more expensive teksid but thats just me.
 

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****, $300 for an aluminum block is a done deal. Where you find that deal?

Anyone know how much a salvage 3v motor goes for? I don't mind hooking up the electronics if it saves me 300lbs in the engine bay and out flows the **** out of my NPI or PI heads.
 

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got mine for $1K and it only has 1200 miles on it, not that it matters because it is getting forged out
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Would I be smart to buy an entire 1994 lincoln mark VII. That should have the teksid block and 4v heads. He says it has the original motor with 108k miles and he did a tune up about 3,000 miles ago (doesn't really matter if I'm rebuilding).

I can probably get the whole car for $600 total

I think that motor is rated at about 280hp w/ a compression ratio north of 9.5
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think I'm gonna try to talk the guy down a little bit and get the whole car.

If I'm not mistaken, that would come with the B heads. They are 4v and outflow the C heads at higher rpms. Would these heads be good with a P&P or should I look at getting different heads as well? I don't want to put another $2k worth of heads on this project, as it's still a budget build.

I talked to procharger and they said that the head unit mounting brackets were dependant on the cover (I'm assuming he meant timing cover) that was on the motor. Is my timing cover gonna bolt to that block/heads? Everything I've heard is that all modular stuff is pretty interchangeable.
 

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it depends...if you are staying N/A i would say try to find a good set of c heads but if you are ever looking at boost in the future then there is no better than the b heads.
 
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