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Discussion Starter #1
So, I don't really understand this topic very much. Reading some topics about it I get what the difference between a "Forged" part is, and what it is not. Although I'm not too sure on what makes an engine forged, or whatever. I'm going to do more home-work on this tomorrow.


Either way, I was told I would be better off getting my stock-shortblock forged, instead of doing a MMR-900 SWAP, considering I don't have a huge pocketbook. I'm hoping to make somewhere between 500-650 HP, w/ a KC S/C

I don't know anything about this process, how it's done, or whatever. perhaps you guys can nudge me in the right direction. Is it something that you can do yourself, do I need to take it somewhere. Etc... I'm not too mechanically inclined, although like everybody else who is starting out. I'm attempting to learn. :dunce:
 

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Chitty Chitty Bang Bang
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Its not getting your motor forged but putting in forged components ie crank rods and pistons. And your stock iron block and cast crank should be up to your goals. A good set of forged pistons and rods will handle the KB very well



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King Trashmouth
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So, I don't really understand this topic very much. Reading some topics about it I get what the difference between a "Forged" part is, and what it is not. Although I'm not too sure on what makes an engine forged, or whatever. I'm going to do more home-work on this tomorrow.


Either way, I was told I would be better off getting my stock-shortblock forged, instead of doing a MMR-900 SWAP, considering I don't have a huge pocketbook. I'm hoping to make somewhere between 500-650 HP, w/ a KC S/C

I don't know anything about this process, how it's done, or whatever. perhaps you guys can nudge me in the right direction. Is it something that you can do yourself, do I need to take it somewhere. Etc... I'm not too mechanically inclined, although like everybody else who is starting out. I'm attempting to learn. :dunce:
"Forging" your engine is replacing the stock rotating assembly with forged components.

Forged refers to a manufacturing process which is significantly stronger than methods such as casting or sintering. To forge a part they essentially apply thousands of pounds of pressure to hammer a billet or blank of material into a die to form a net shape. From there it is machined to the final shape. Through the immense pressure and deformation of grain structure within the part, the part is strengthened significantly.

In contrast, cast is simply when molten metal is poured into a mold of the part. This results in a much coarser grain structure with regular planes, which is weaker than a forged product.

Sintered is even weaker. Sintering is like forging, often why they are referred to as "sinter forged" but with a twist. Sintered products are actually where they take a powdered material and press it so tightly into a die that it becomes a solid shape. This process requires minimal machining and can be highly efficient, but it's fairly weak. This is what the stock connecting rods are made out of.


Now to the motor itself. Chances are if you've never opened one up in your life, you'll probably want to buy a shortblock.

If you've got some experience or are just downright adventurous, you can piece one together cheaper. However you are going to need to know what you're doing and have a plethora of tools. You'll want to pick up a book on building engines, a crank, rods, rod bolts, pistons, wrist pins, piston rings, bearings, and main bolts for engine hardware. Tools include sockets, torque wrenches (in-lb and ft-lb help) lots of assembly lube, plastigauge, a dial indicator, prybar, piston compressor, and likely a few more. Anyone can do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I love the random "Anyone can do it" at the end of the 75 item list of things to do.
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Thanks for explaining this, are there specialized shops that do this, or could I take it to any mechanic? I won't mind reading on it, but I'm going to wait until I can practice on something that's not my DD
 

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unless you get a really good deal somewhere down the line in doing it yourself, i would recommend buying an assembled forged shortblock as you will probably spend the same or maybe more by doing it yourself with the help of a machine shop. its much less stress and time as well, my 2 cents brotha!
 

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my shop is charging 3k in labor to take out engine, tear it down, and install rotating assembly, cams, ect.

i'm about 7k into my build after parts/labor/dyno tune, it's not cheap
 

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thats not too bad of a price yet even though your not mechanically inclined i advise you to take the opportunity to remove the engine yourself, it should take a day or two, and learn from it! it is exactly what i did and it shaved off 900 bucks off the machine shop price.
still, mmr-900 are about 2700 for shortblocks and 6000 for longblocks as far as what ive seen. plus they are top of the line stuff that most likely you wont regret!
you could go either way, although less hassle with mmr.
 

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thats not too bad of a price yet even though your not mechanically inclined i advise you to take the opportunity to remove the engine yourself, it should take a day or two, and learn from it! it is exactly what i did and it shaved off 900 bucks off the machine shop price.
still, mmr-900 are about 2700 for shortblocks and 6000 for longblocks as far as what ive seen. plus they are top of the line stuff that most likely you wont regret!
you could go either way, although less hassle with mmr.
Mmr route will also take time, they quoted me 8-10 weeks to assemble

Just something else to consider

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King Trashmouth
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I love the random "Anyone can do it" at the end of the 75 item list of things to do.
--------

Thanks for explaining this, are there specialized shops that do this, or could I take it to any mechanic? I won't mind reading on it, but I'm going to wait until I can practice on something that's not my DD
It's really quite easy. Watch some Powerblock or read some MM&FF features. It's not that frightening. I know we all think that the engine is this massively complex voodoo machine, but it's not. It's a bunch of metal put together with basic hand tools.

Lots of shops can do this, but I would stick with performance shops/engine builders. They often can do it faster, cheaper, and more importantly correctly.
 
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