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I heard a good way to check for vacuum leaks is to create one on purpose, meaning remove a hose from a known vacuum source. If engine speed rises, you have a leak somewhere. If engine speed drops or cars tries to stall, then there are no vacuum leaks.
It weird but an easy and effective way to tell for sure.
You can check for vac leaks with brake kleen or carb cleaner. I would suggest
you do it with engine cold just for safty reasons. I perfer a hand held propane bottle, works best with a little hose extension, its very effective.. your idle may go up or down but you will know when you hit the spot. lol
 

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I heard a good way to check for vacuum leaks is to create one on purpose, meaning remove a hose from a known vacuum source. If engine speed rises, you have a leak somewhere. If engine speed drops or cars tries to stall, then there are no vacuum leaks.
It weird but an easy and effective way to tell for sure.
The best way I found with my vehicles to find vacuum leaks is to buy a PVC or ABS pipe plug from the hardware store that fits in the intake pipe. File the threads off, and tap in a quick connect air fitting. Insert into the pipe coupler and tighten the clamp. Connect an air source like mini-compressor with only 2 or 3 psi. and make sure the compressor is unplugged. It's easy to hear any leaks in a quiet place, plus a small tank will leak down fairly quickly if there are any leaks. Common places are hoses and the EGR.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'm sure all these methods work too, but mine requires nothing but an arm with a hand attached to pull off a vacuum hose.
 

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I heard a good way to check for vacuum leaks is to create one on purpose, meaning remove a hose from a known vacuum source. If engine speed rises, you have a leak somewhere. If engine speed drops or cars tries to stall, then there are no vacuum leaks.
It weird but an easy and effective way to tell for sure.
Usually if you pull a hose, the speed increases as it's getting more air as the TB is closed at the time of this test. If there is a leak, pulling the hose won't really tell you anything. The brake cleaner or other combustible method is a good one too if the leak is big enough to suck the mist in and you spray it everywhere there is a potential leak. I still prefer my pressurization method as you can solve them all this way.
 

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so went out this morning to start my 95 mustang 3.8 today and tunred the key and nothing happened. tapped on the starter with a hammer and it fired right up, so went to Advance Auto Parts after work and got a new starter and me and my dad hooked it all up and went to turn key and still nothing at all??? im confused does anyone have any ideas, like is it possible we could of have gotten the 2 wires backwards on the starter, which wires goes where?
 

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Check your battery cables, make sure there is no corrosion, even cut back some of the insulation. This happened to me not too long ago. Also check your battery's voltage, make sure it's getting charged.

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You turn the key and it just like clicks right? It doesn't try to turn it over. I can't think of the wiring off the top of my head. You can check the wiring again to be sure but i believe it's pretty easy. Again, my issue was corrosion. Not on the battery posts themselves but the cables underneath their insulation. I cut them back to clean copper and reconnected, haven't had a problem since. This was after i did you you did, threw money at a starter i didn't even need. You also want to check the battery's voltage though to make sure it is keeping it's charge and has enough juice to turn it over.

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My son and I installed a CAI on his '95 mustang 3.8 and now he says the engine sometimes hesitates when driving. Is there another mod that's commonly done while installing a CIA..like a bigger MAF or throttle body, or something? Does the MAF sensor need recalibrated maybe or is this hesitation a seperate problem?
I have had this problem and it threw codes exactly what you have plus misfire code, I replaced spark plugs and wires, my fuel injectors were spitting fine, I have heard that upgraded fuel pump and injectors would help because all of the extra air.... I cleared the codes and put my stock intake back on and haven't had any problems or codes since
I would check the distance of stock maf sensor to the cai, i heard that is a common problem,even though the cai is supposed to be standard specs but it could be different, i would also try aem air filter, heard k&n filters let in to much air
 

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I bought a K&N FIPK intake from 4wheelonline. No problems after the install. I'm pretty sure that your issue lies elsewhere. Check your plugs, wires, MAF, throttle body and distributor cap.
 
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