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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 94 GT and the Problem just started happening on my way home from work, where i heard a weird noise at first from the engine compartment and the exhaust tone had also changed. cleared up then came back as i pulled in. as i got home i let the car cool off went back outside this morning to find that i had 1 missing header bolt. thinking maybe that could've been it i replaced the header bolt. started the car right up sounds very good at idle, but then as i slowly rev up the car just sputters really bad, and a strong fuel odor coming from the exhaust and engine compartment, i adjust my fuel regulator and still having the same issues. anyone have anything else similar happen or know of any possibilities, thank you in advance
 

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Sounds like your running rich. I would check your plugs to see if there black. If you had a header leak it could have caused it to run rich and foul the plugs and now there not burning up all the fuel


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Discussion Starter #3
Its Definitely running rich. which is why i reduced the fuel pressure. if the plugs are fouled, and replace them could that fix the problem? or could it also be the distributor or ignition coil?
 

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Check the plugs, cap and rotor first. Never hurts to clean the MAF and do a general tuneup while your at it. If they are really fouled then replacing them could do the trick.

Should be no need to reduce the fuel pressure from base, if some are running rich from misfire and the ecm is pulling fuel then you could end up leaning the ones that are ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had to increase my fuel pressure to 48 after i installed a b303 cam. it would back fire thru the intake, since i increased the fuel pressure didnt really have any issues. ill def check out the plugs first thing tomorrow, next the cap and rotor.
 

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Why did you need to increase fuel pressure for the cam swap? If it was back firing through the intake that would be a timing issue and not a fuel one. Sounds like you have a few other issues lurking that need to be taken care of. What is your timing set at currently?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
See thats what i was thinking after i had the cam installed it would backfire, so i had contacted to shop that installed it and the guy said to adjust the fuel pressure because quote" its backfiring through the intake due to a lean condition, so increase it til it stops" not knowing too much about that aspect of cars i did so and it did stop. but i had set it to 48 psi then lowered it back to 40 today. and as far as the timing on the cam, i honestly dont know what its set at. :facepalm:
 

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You should definitely get a timing light on that thing and do a good tuneup. Once its in good order we can start narrowing down issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Getting my hands on the a timing light this morning, we'll see what it comes out to, and do a tune up on it and see how it turns out. Ill keep you posted on the status
 

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yeah take the spout chip out and set it to 12 degrees. and back the fuel psi down between 35-38 and it'll scream. put new plugs in it too. i had one fouled plug in mine and it screwed my car all up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah take the spout chip out and set it to 12 degrees. and back the fuel psi down between 35-38 and it'll scream. put new plugs in it too. i had one fouled plug in mine and it screwed my car all up lol.
I went to do the timing and noticed i dont have that bracket for the timing, this will be my first time doing it so im not sure what im looking for lol ill double check all my plugs again, i replaced my maf sensor, cap and rotor too it runs slightly better but it still sputters on acceleration and my exhaust tone has changed, also could it be a fuel problem if it is still running rich?
 

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id get that timing bracket asap. you dont want to change and fiddle with things when it could just be your timing.
 

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If your talking about the hold down, then yes.
 

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no i think hes talking about the timing bracket that mounts over the harmonic balancer for the timing marks. yes the distributor can move if the hold down clamp for it is loose. but none of that will help you if you dont pull the spout chip out. if your just going to set the timing back to 10 then you put it back in after setting it. but if you have a cam in it then set the timing to 12 and put the chip in your glove compartment. the spout chip is located under or near your air cleaner. its usually a grey square looking piece inserted into a black electrical connector, two prong, two wires. take that grey thing out. when its in it cause the computer to control your timing, with it out you can set it yourself. the dist will still advance but you wont have the ecu jumping the timing around causing it to idle rough or drive erratic. kepp us posted. look up on you tube to find videos of where and what the spout looks like. or how to set the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
awesome good to know bro thank you. while i was tinkering around just looking at basically everything i did notice my fuel rail is super loose, and while i moved the F.R i heard my number 1 injector hissing. i tried tightening down my bolts and came to find out the threads on the plenum where my fuel rail bolts down too are stripped.....could this loss in fuel pressure be my main culprit aside from my timing?
 

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Yea definitely.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok fixed the fuel rail issue and no change. car is still sputtering on acceleration, car idles perfect. scratching my head on what it could be
 

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hm, could be a bad distributor. i have no idea how to test that thing either. but still check the timing and all and make sure its all good though.
 

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An exhaust leak before the o2 sensor or an air (vacuum) leak can do that. Fix any vac or exhaust leaks and I think your problem will go away.
 
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