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Old School Racer
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Subbed!!!!
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #82
One interesting note to make about the dot to dot process; if done as stated in the FSM, there shouldn't be a concern about one bank being 180 deg out of phase with the other. As long as the dots are in the prescribed positions, you should be ok. The only way to get it out of phase would be to rotate the crank 1 time, at which point your other cam dot should be blatantly out of position. If you do 2 full revolutions of the crank, you're back to exactly where you started, and things will be in phase.
 

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:drink
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #85
Not real sure why youd need to advance the cam a whole tooth....
Math time.

These cams (FR500s) install straight up at 109/109. Let's just talk about the exhaust cam for simplicity sake, since it's the one driven off the primaries.

Now I wanted to put that at a more blower friendly ECL on the stock block. That meant 114/114, and then throw a +3 advance on it to be healthy. That brings our total to 117. That means that I had to run the crank gear on A8, advanced 8 degrees, so my advance was maxed out.

Now the heads had to get thrown on the new block, which at this point the heads and new block were milled. I throw them in and degree it with the gear at A8 again. It comes out to 112, which is 5 deg out from where I want to be. I can't advance it anymore with the crank gear, so I advance it one tooth (+17 deg) and then change it from A8 to R4 (-12 deg) on the crank gear, which totals out to 5 deg total advance, which gives me exactly 117 again. Right on the money!
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #86
Now for the bottom side. The oil pickup tube got a new o-ring. I also checked pickup to pan clearance with a piece of clay (protip, put plastic over it to keep it from sticking to the pickup.) You place it on the bottom of the pan, bolt it up with the gasket, then unbolt it and measure it with calipers. After some adjustment I got it to my intended depth of 3/8" and bolted everything in place.
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Now with all that done it's time to button up the engine. With one last check of the timing and valvetrain, I cleaned up all the surfaces, installed the gaskets, and put dabs of RTV at the joints to the head and pan gasket. Keep in mind you don't want the pan snugged down when putting the timing cover on, otherwise it won't want to go on. It's also a good time to replace the front crank seal while it's still off the engine.
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I also got the engine mounts on. The passenger one took some clearancing to get it to line up properly, due to the tolerance on the casting of the block. No big deal.

Next up: balancer install, and all the rear work with the seal, cover, and flywheel.

The balancer needs to be drilled/tapped since the threads were all boogered up anyway.
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #88
Nice! Keep it up the great work Wicked! Btw, I don't think I recall what car this motor is going inside of?
Going right back into the dumpsterfire.

Tried working on the engine again today; very little progress, too goddamn cold. Looks like the header flanges may be warped. More work for me.

In other news, might be too goddamn cold for awhile to work on the engine. Don't know how I changed out the front suspension in single digit temperatures.
 

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a.k.a. Racecougar
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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #90
I've been occupied for a bit so I may have missed the backstory, but I thought you sold it?


It was all an elaborate ruse; the car was actually getting some stainless FF headers welded up on it. Truth be told, I wasn't quite as happy as I was hoping. The guy was going to use it as a mock up car to make a 4V turbo kit. What really happened is I got the headers and half the downpipes, no cold side, dump pipes, or rest of the downpipes, and it took 5 damn months, at which point he threw in the towel and closed up shop. So basically par for the course as far as luck on this car goes.

So basically, this is what happened-

:baller:

Which reminds me, I probably won't get around to grinding the flanges flat for another week or so, because I fully intend on enjoying a week off from work, stuffing myself with turkey, and not freezing my ass off in the garage.
 

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It was all an elaborate ruse; the car was actually getting some stainless FF headers welded up on it. Truth be told, I wasn't quite as happy as I was hoping. The guy was going to use it as a mock up car to make a 4V turbo kit. What really happened is I got the headers and half the downpipes, no cold side, dump pipes, or rest of the downpipes, and it took 5 damn months, at which point he threw in the towel and closed up shop. So basically par for the course as far as luck on this car goes.



So basically, this is what happened-



:baller:



Which reminds me, I probably won't get around to grinding the flanges flat for another week or so, because I fully intend on enjoying a week off from work, stuffing myself with turkey, and not freezing my ass off in the garage.

You keep mentioning your cold garage... You should get a propane heater for it. Makes working on the car so nice
 

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You keep mentioning your cold garage... You should get a propane heater for it. Makes working on the car so nice
I'm in the same situation, the cold weather is stopping me from getting out in the garage. I need to find a good portable heater so I can move it around where I'm working since the garage isn't insulated.
 

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This may be a stupid question, but what assembly lube are you using? I ask because I'm about to do the same build basically. I built a 5.0 roller engine for a fox and everyone was totally against assembly lube. My teksid is gonna have to sit for a bit while I get the rest of the car ready. So I would think the lube would be the way to go? And maybe get off your arse and post some progress?
 

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King Trashmouth
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Discussion Starter #97
This may be a stupid question, but what assembly lube are you using? I ask because I'm about to do the same build basically. I built a 5.0 roller engine for a fox and everyone was totally against assembly lube. My teksid is gonna have to sit for a bit while I get the rest of the car ready. So I would think the lube would be the way to go? And maybe get off your arse and post some progress?
For assembly lube I used the Permatex brand stuff. I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that assembly lube was a bad idea. Some guys get away with using something like 30W or heavier oil on everything, but that's usually more of a shadetree mechanic building SBC's for his El Camino.

Of course that's for the bearing surfaces, not the cylinders. Cylinders you should just use straight motor oil.

And if you're referring to the moly lube for fasteners I use the ARP stuff. It also can be substituted with 30W, but moly is more accurate.

I'd love to get off my ass and finish it, but my hands are tied at the moment. The long block is more or less done, but if you've been following the car build thread the flanges to my headers are incorrect; they're off by about 1/2." If I bolted them up it would blow out the gasket in an instant. The fabricator has offered to make me a new set, but that won't happen until early January.

Back to waiting.

 

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Assembly lube is fine, but i use engine oil all the time. It will be fine regardless which. Never had an issue in the many years ive done it. Oil pressure comes almost instantly anyway, so it really doesnt matter
 

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Cruising the backroads
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Assembly lube is fine, but i use engine oil all the time. It will be fine regardless which. Never had an issue in the many years ive done it. Oil pressure comes almost instantly anyway, so it really doesnt matter
False. On new unworn parts the tolerances are much tighter. And seeing how most of your bearings are friction bearings you need the higher lubricity from the assembly lube. Not always does oil pressure come instantly. I had a 2v in an old truck of mine that wouldn't get oIL pressure for a good 5-10 seconds upon starting after an oil change. Imaging what a dry engine is like. Also, assembly lube doesn't drip and drain out like standard oil. Yes there will always be some there, but not enough to float the crank or cams.
 

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Canon Gang
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False. On new unworn parts the tolerances are much tighter. And seeing how most of your bearings are friction bearings you need the higher lubricity from the assembly lube. Not always does oil pressure come instantly. I had a 2v in an old truck of mine that wouldn't get oIL pressure for a good 5-10 seconds upon starting after an oil change. Imaging what a dry engine is like. Also, assembly lube doesn't drip and drain out like standard oil. Yes there will always be some there, but not enough to float the crank or cams.
I thought diesel mechanics just took turns licking the bearings before they go in
 
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