Not false. True life events. Been doing it for years. Weird. Always worksFalse. On new unworn parts the tolerances are much tighter. And seeing how most of your bearings are friction bearings you need the higher lubricity from the assembly lube. Not always does oil pressure come instantly. I had a 2v in an old truck of mine that wouldn't get oIL pressure for a good 5-10 seconds upon starting after an oil change. Imaging what a dry engine is like. Also, assembly lube doesn't drip and drain out like standard oil. Yes there will always be some there, but not enough to float the crank or cams.
Don't get your panties in a bunch..A damn joke.lol. Tell me again how something ive done a hundred times doesnt work.oil is not going to drain away when sandwiched between a bearing. I use assembly lube mostly,but i run out alot. It really hasnt made a difference either way
I dont think theyre TTY? Ive never had a additional degree to torque to on mine...? Now im wondering lol.After a nice little bit of much desired rest, I got the header flanges sanded down. They look even to the eye, and are less than 0.010" out of true, which should be plenty with those thick Felpro gaskets.
I also just remembered I need a new set of pressure plate bolts since those are TTY.
According to the manual it's 33 ft-lb +60 deg. The old SBF ones are non-TTY though.I dont think theyre TTY? Ive never had a additional degree to torque to on mine...? Now im wondering lol.
As for assembly lube, ARP moly is what I prefer. Not worth the risk of damaging bearings/crank for a 10$ bottle IMO.
Oil changed after 100 miles lol. Next one was 500, then 1000, then normal changes after that.As long as we're beating this horse to death, heres one more blow-
If you use a lot of moly assembly lube its a good idea to swap the oil filter after the initial fire up. If you used a lot of moly it can partially plug up the filter, causing it to go into bypass mode and not do any filtering.