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Discussion Starter #1
Do i need a gasket for both sides or just the passenger cause it seems to be the only one leaking, and also is there a torque spec on these bolts cause they keep working loose and i am just curious, i am gonna use some blue locktite this time to ensure they won't come loose.
 

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i think i turned mine toward the exhaust manifold. i think, don't take my word for it. there should be a lip in the manifold or the midpipe for the ridge.
I think you're right about that. I believe I turned mine the same way.
 

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thanks man, just wanted to make sure i was doing it right the first time!
NP bro. BTW, I had it flipped when I put my old mid on, and it had the slightest leak to it. It wasn't a horribly loud leak, but it was noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
NP bro. BTW, I had it flipped when I put my old mid on, and it had the slightest leak to it. It wasn't a horribly loud leak, but it was noticeable.
I've been running mine for two years with no gasket imagine how bad my leak was! at about 2000 rpm it has that tapping leak noise to it and it drives me ****ing insane:mad:
 

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i had a simular problem, but mine wasnt loose by 1/2 inch. what i used was a fender washer and a lockwasher on both bolts and then put the nut on. idk what the torque value is on that nut, but i hit it them with my impact and that solved the issue of the pipe not meeting the collector. just a thought and it was $2 in hardware
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i had a simular problem, but mine wasnt loose by 1/2 inch. what i used was a fender washer and a lockwasher on both bolts and then put the nut on. idk what the torque value is on that nut, but i hit it them with my impact and that solved the issue of the pipe not meeting the collector. just a thought and it was $2 in hardware
You are the man thanks for the input:cool:
 

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i doubt i put 100 lbs of torque on my nuts. maybe 50-75. like i said just a quick hit with the impact. you dont want to bust those bolts off.
unless you were wanting to upgrade to longtubes like tomorrow.
 

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I figure about 100 ft lbs with the torque wrench should do it:yes
Did your mid-pipe come with new driver's side bolts? I tried to use the stock studs when I put my new mid-pipe on and it was very loose. I had to remove the stock studs and use the bolts that came with my kit. I don't think the stock studs are threaded far enough down to allow the flange to sit snugly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did your mid-pipe come with new driver's side bolts? I tried to use the stock studs when I put my new mid-pipe on and it was very loose. I had to remove the stock studs and use the bolts that came with my kit. I don't think the stock studs are threaded far enough down to allow the flange to sit snugly.
No just the pipe, and the problem i am having now is one of the nuts got to the bottom of the thread on the bolt then it got really tight so i went back up and tried again after some wd40 and now the nut is at the bottom and spinning freely but wont come off WTF:mad:, and another thing how did you get your old studs out?
 

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No just the pipe, and the problem i am having now is one of the nuts got to the bottom of the thread on the bolt then it got really tight so i went back up and tried again after some wd40 and now the nut is at the bottom and spinning freely but wont come off WTF:mad:, and another thing how did you get your old studs out?
Sounds like you overtightened and stripped the threads on the stud. You'll probably have to replace the stud now one way or another. I got mine out with some vice grips. I think I had to put something on the end of the vice grips to get more leverage. Don't be afraid to soak them in penetrating oil. Those studs get heated and cooled a LOT, so they'll be stingy and you DO NOT want one of them to break off. My mid-pipe was not attached to the manifold when I did this. If your stud threads are stripped with the pipe still attached, it's going to be much more difficult.

Hope this helps.
 
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