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Discussion Starter #1
Background information:
Two months ago I replaced my motor and transmission mounts with polyurethane style. One month before that I did the front brakes and rotors. Idler pulleys, tensioner, and serpentine belt are all less than a year old. Stock manual transmission.

Progression:
Noticed a slight squeak at low speed usually when breaking one week after replacing the mounts (month and half past the brake job). Determined it might have been the breaks because the weather was getting nice and started driving with the windows down roughly round same time as I did the mounts. Figured I hadn’t noticed this noise before, with the windows up. However I could swear I’d hear the squeak at stand still just for a brief moment and at times when I was not braking (in neutral coasting to a light usually) but played that on someone near me with dirty brakes. Because it wasn’t always consistent but defiantly often enough to bother me.

Worsening conditions:
I let my car sit for a week in a covered garage at the air port. Upon returning at engine turn over I heard the typical worn belt or failing idler pulley squeak, squeak, squeak and noise continued till I hit the freeway (Highway speeds, windows up, a/c). When I got to the sub streets and started stop go driving. A new noise occurred, when I depressed the clutch pedal a creek much like an old worn door opening (not a squeak). Deep from within the lower engine bay.
*note the constant idler puller style squeak well in the car park, had gone and not come back.

Testing: over the past 10 days
This creak is clear and 100% constant to the following:
Engine running, parked, neutral, pump the clutch, any number of times (very clear)
Shifting to 1st (very clear)
Shifting to 2nd (clear)
Shifting to 3rd (less)
Shifting to 4th (faint)
Shifting to 5th (nothing)
Turn engine off, parked, any gear or neutral, pump clutch 1 (clear), pump second time (less), pump a third time (faint) further pumps result in no noise.
Have adjusted the stock quadrant, resulted in no change.

Theories:
One thought was the clutch cable was rubbing but the noise goes away when engine is off and a few clutch pumps.
Next idea is the throw our bearing because I know that moves on the input shaft well depressing the clutch.
I think after the new mounts an alignment might have been thrown off and is starting to cause failures.

I know along read but I feel the details will help. If you have ideas as to what is going on please help! I’d like to fix whatever is wrong before I get stranded somewhere or cause further damage. Many thanks fellow MM’ers!
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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put front end on ramps, get under car while running, and see how pronounced sound is from clutch area. OR if its idling and making noise, slowly put pressure on clutch pedal, and if noise is changing then its probably tob.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
put front end on ramps, get under car while running, and see how pronounced sound is from clutch area. OR if its idling and making noise, slowly put pressure on clutch pedal, and if noise is changing then its probably tob.
When at idle since day one with the new motor & trans mount I’d hear a constant rough noise (best description). However when I depress the clutch the noise does go away.

For a while now past 6 months I’ve been trying to track down why at turn over I get a shudder ever so slight down the drive train. My mounts where shot and blamed it on that. After replacing the mounts it did get loads better, however was still present. Then thought it was a lose exhaust hanger, but everything checked out with that. Now however I think the clutch is dragging and catching at startup.
What adds to this idea as well, tonight at the lights I turned the a/c and radio off and pumping the clutch I could hear a slight idle change not enough to register on the cluster gauge but auditable. RMP’s would rise when clutch was in and drop with the clutch out.

Adding more to a TOB issue and maybe clutch?

Thanks SWEET2KSTANG for the reply.
Chime in experienced forum’ers
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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personally, i would just change clutch, install factory tob, and change pilot bearing. you will feel vibrations from the poly style mounts because they are very firm, so some of the vibrations will be normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
personally, i would just change clutch, install factory tob, and change pilot bearing. you will feel vibrations from the poly style mounts because they are very firm, so some of the vibrations will be normal.
Thanks this is the plan. Been doing research on parts and process and seeing how the transmission has to come out for any of this work might as well knock it all out.

Currently deciding on parts list:
Ford TOB
Ford Pilot Bearing
MM quadrant set up and cable
Centerforce Dual friction clutch
Aluminum flywheel pending budget and recommendations???
Oh and might as well get a new fork and rear main seal

Missing anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
mid day bump
any one else fell like chiming in
 

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Its ur TOB my car used to do that. When I finally changed the clutch we saw that the bearing was shot. Some how it got so hot it melted and freezed. Once changed car was fine. Just make sure u put plenty of grease on it so it wont happen again.
 
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