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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, just got off the phone with steeda, and I finally have my suspension upgrades in mind, I just want to get final thoughts from you guys before I hit the "order" button. I'm doing it in 3 steps, for money reasons...
Step 1: (to be ordered asap)
steeda sport springs
tokico dspecs
steeda adjustable panhard bar
steeda hvy duty strut mounts

Step 2: (when funds present themselves)
steeda front/rear swaybars
steeda "stop the hop" pack(lower control arms, upper 3rd link)
steeda bumpsteer kit
steeda x5 balljoints

Step 3: (when I hit the lottery)
steeda front brake upgrade

Sound good? Any suggestions?
 

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Add LCA relocation brakets to that list to set the pinion angle correctly, and camber bolts so the alignment will be right. Everything else looks good. And the Steeda brake upgrade is just stop tech stuff branded Steeda.
 

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sounds good but I would hold off on the ball joints untill you need them, and do the lower controls arms with (step 1) also bmr might be a little cheaper and they really have good suspension parts
 

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Discussion Starter #5
red, i was hoping that the strut mounts would mean i wouldnt need camber bolts because there suppossed to give +/- 1 deg of camber...still need the bolts? Thanks for the brake info...i'm not dead set on a brand for that yet because that will be awhile
 

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Discussion Starter #6
...and do lca relocation brackets need welded in?
 

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The strut mounts should give enough adjustment and you shouldn't need the bolts. The LCA's are bolt in or weld in
 

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if i were you, i'd get the LCA and 3rd link now... i've already blown my stock LCA bushings out.. in 6500 miles if that tell you anything... LCA on these cars are some of the worst in history. and the articulation the stock upper gives is pathetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
k...now do i need an adjustable upper 3rd link, then...a little bit more pricey than the one in the stop the hop pack. Grabber, thx for the link, I'll check it out
 

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the relocation brackets just change the angle of the lower control arms when the car is lowered. With the BMR lowering springs mine are in the bottom hole which keeps them straight to eliminate wheel hop. To adjust my pinion angle I have an adj. upper control arm. To me it was easier to get the adjustable upper instead of adjustable lowers. Its easier to adjust one piece instead of both lowers
 

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+1, you don't have to worry about one tire ending up a little further forward than the other. I was under the impression the LCA relocation brackets helped to keep the car from squatting under hard acceleratoin, essentially putting more weight on the tires by preventing the LCA's from going "over center" during a launch. I assume it makes the ride pretty harsh. I'll know for sure by this weekend when I install them.
 

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The strut mounts should give enough adjustment and you shouldn't need the bolts. The LCA's are bolt in or weld in
Didn't know that.

k...now do i need an adjustable upper 3rd link, then...a little bit more pricey than the one in the stop the hop pack. Grabber, thx for the link, I'll check it out
If you get an adjustable UCA you won't need the relocation brackets.
 

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+1, you don't have to worry about one tire ending up a little further forward than the other. I was under the impression the LCA relocation brackets helped to keep the car from squatting under hard acceleratoin, essentially putting more weight on the tires by preventing the LCA's from going "over center" during a launch. I assume it makes the ride pretty harsh. I'll know for sure by this weekend when I install them.
no harshness at all grabber and I have my d specs set pretty firm also. My suspension is tight, I get a much better feel of the road, but it's not too harsh. No noise in the cabin either. I'll adjust the tokico's in a few weeks to be softer when I put the 20's on
 

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If you get an adjustable UCA you won't need the relocation brackets.
Redfire, the relocation brackets do not adjust the rear end. They just allow the control arms to sit lower for a lowered car so they are parallel to the ground. When the car is lowered more than an inch in the back that will tilt upward accenting wheel hop. With them parallel they hold better and don't allow the car to jump and skip. Adj. lca's would lengthen and shorten the lca moving the axle and adjusting pinion angle. The problem is that you have two control arms to worry about, with the adj. 3rd link (upper control arm) there is only one and and it makes adjusting pinion angle much easier
 

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Redfire, the relocation brackets do not adjust the rear end. They just allow the control arms to sit lower for a lowered car so they are parallel to the ground. When the car is lowered more than an inch in the back that will tilt upward accenting wheel hop. With them parallel they hold better and don't allow the car to jump and skip. Adj. lca's would lengthen and shorten the lca moving the axle and adjusting pinion angle. The problem is that you have two control arms to worry about, with the adj. 3rd link (upper control arm) there is only one and and it makes adjusting pinion angle much easier
Oh really. I was under the impression that the relocation brackets adjusted the pinion angle. rep to you
 

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Discussion Starter #18
When will you replace your tires?
the car is mainly for street action. Its not my daily driver, but probably will only see the strip a couple times and i may take it to a track a couple times to have some fun. I hadn't really thought about tires yet, until I can find a set of wider lightweight rims that suit my taste.
 

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no harshness at all grabber and I have my d specs set pretty firm also. My suspension is tight, I get a much better feel of the road, but it's not too harsh. No noise in the cabin either. I'll adjust the tokico's in a few weeks to be softer when I put the 20's on
I'm keeping my stock ride height to get the nose up and the ass planted...they won't be level...a little "under level" towards the rear if that makes sense...increases leverage the car puts on the wheels...
 
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