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Discussion Starter #1
Well today I returned to the track after 8 months of waiting. No new changes to the car except the Hot Rod cams. Total chaos and crap track conditions I could not get the tires under the car.

Was a heads up Pro tree program where I on a normal day can get 1 or 2 test passes before qualifying starts. I did not get to do a test and tune so I had to do it on the fly.

1st Qualifying pass was without the juice and I had a problem at the waterbox. I have normal street tires on the front and wanted to drive around the water and back into the box but they watered guardrail to guardrail so we had to drive into the water. I was about the 20th car in that line so it was real wet before I got there.

I did the usual and when the yellows popped I hit it. 1.986 60' the car slushed to a 8.58 in the 1/8 and stuttered at the 1,000 and dug back in but too late and finished with a 13.367 @ 103.71.

My best run on streets was with a 1.8 60' 12.8 @ 109mph and that was with a stock converter and 127200 cams from Comp. I was a little bit annoyed at the run but nothing I could do.

Opening the bottle I gave it a chance and found again no traction and ran a 1.981 60' and tires screaming off the line and had to peddle it :surprise: and ran a 12.659 @112.23

3rd pass was the same only different lane, nothing gained 1.992 60' and 12.596 @ 112.26 but most of it was my fault not adapting to the track.

I dropped the air to 15lbs stayed in the burnout longer and then gave it my last shot for the day. 1.807 60' and spun a bit in second too but did not lift finished the run 12.342 @112.34 mph. Faster and quicker with the Hot Rods over stock cams.

I bet with better track conditions I can run a 12.1 without making any more changes but that is not the goal. I need to swap out the stock springs and shocks and pull the swaybar out and run without the cats.
 

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Nice to see improvements for the hard work I'm sure! Honestly, you'll gain more by buying a set of real slicks with a spare set of rims than you would by removing the cat's IMHO. I'll run bottom 13's on Nitto Street tires & 12.30-12.50's on little 26x8.5" wide M\T Drag slicks. Dropping the cat's only gains me a 10th at best.... The MPH times tell me you'd run at least 12.30's with a good slick launch; 12 flat if the air is good, the planets align, your suspension is dialed in, you shift well, etcetera.... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Went back and found track conditions just as bad. They are not preparing the track for our program so I am sol. I have to get linelocks and the suspension right. Dropping the ass down too far and have too much rebound.

I made no changes and did the same.

12.34 with a 1.78 60' the car is a dead on 12.3 112mph almost every pass. Spending the $ and the time to square this away. Going to run with a 125 shot if the car sticks to the track. Racing in street trim is rough.

Program won't let me use a slick. Oh I wish they did....lol.
 

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Went back and found track conditions just as bad. They are not preparing the track for our program so I am sol. I have to get linelocks and the suspension right. Dropping the ass down too far and have too much rebound.

I made no changes and did the same.

12.34 with a 1.78 60' the car is a dead on 12.3 112mph almost every pass. Spending the $ and the time to square this away. Going to run with a 125 shot if the car sticks to the track. Racing in street trim is rough.

Program won't let me use a slick. Oh I wish they did....lol.
The rear of the car shouldn't squat at all in an ideal world. You need to set up your suspension with a larger anti squat %. This should actually lift the rear end of your car. That, along with good weight transfer is going to hit your tires harder and possibly help with your traction issues. Along with some good dedicated track tires.

What are the requirements for tires in what you are running? Our street race nice are limited to DOT approved tires and I use Hoosier QTP's on a 15" rim. They are basically a slick with a couple of grooves but it has a DOT stamp on it. Otherwise I would think about some ET Streets on a 15" rim.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Before changing tires I am looking to correct the stock geometry and fix the antisquat. I can't get under the car with my back as it is to get a proper measurement but according to some information on the stock positions and the car's front and rear weight I am close to 33% antisquat. Looking at the only picture I have of my car 5' into the run I believe it.

Looking at BMR adjustable upper mount and lower adjustable mounts. If I am correct if they are 1" adjustments down. 1" drop on the front upper and 1" in the lower rear will give me enough movement to work with. If BMR did make these mounts with stock height in mind I should be alright and adding Viking double adjustable shocks will get what I need done.

Unless I am not looking at this right.

I have not laid eyes on a installed set or talked to anyone who has them on the stock night car.
 

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33%, wow. Tires are actually unweighting. When you squat that hard on launch the axle is a actually trying to lift itself off of the ground. You shoul try using the antisquat calculator on S197 forum. You should try and set it up around 110%-130% anti squat. I know a few guys who are having pretty good success with it set up this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
33%, wow. Tires are actually unweighting. When you squat that hard on launch the axle is a actually trying to lift itself off of the ground. You shoul try using the antisquat calculator on S197 forum. You should try and set it up around 110%-130% anti squat. I know a few guys who are having pretty good success with it set up this way.
Control arm relocation brackets are going to correct some of it. Just a 2" drop will bring the antisquat to apprx 97% and the instant center to 61" not bad since the stock position is 97". Height will move to 11.5".

I don't know if I want to move the upper chassis connection point down more than 1/2 inch still looking at how much the car really needs.
 

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Yeah, it's gonna be a trial and error thing. Every car and how you launch is different. Just gotta find your sweet spot, but it looks like you're heading in the right direction. I just got new 90/10 struts and 50/50 shocks, new K-member and front control arms. Extreme anti roll bar for the rear is next and then I'm really going to try and dial in the geometry. Keep posting up as you go along as will I. Maybe we can help guide a few lost souls.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, it's gonna be a trial and error thing. Every car and how you launch is different. Just gotta find your sweet spot, but it looks like you're heading in the right direction. I just got new 90/10 struts and 50/50 shocks, new K-member and front control arms. Extreme anti roll bar for the rear is next and then I'm really going to try and dial in the geometry. Keep posting up as you go along as will I. Maybe we can help guide a few lost souls.
Save a few Souls...lol

Every time we change something we have to change other things to make the best use of it and plot our next Mod.

Waiting for the shocks and relocation brackets to arrive. I don't know if I need the upper bracket and like I always do I'll take the set up as far as it will go. Every pass at the track for the last 2 years have netted me gains. I am done trying to get any more from the stock suspension geometry and stock shocks in the rear. If this gets me a better 60' I will add a bigger pill.

What you are doing up front is where I might go later on and will no doubt be reading what it does for you if you post it.

Don't forget pictures. I take pictures but hardly post them because I am way behind the curve as far mods but if I have a picture to give someone a look at what I'm doing to help them.





12.3 112 mph 1.78 60' 100 shot full weight

As you can see I have some corrections to be made. If I am successful and lucky the guy with the amazing camera will catch it I will post it.
 

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I already have the Cobra Jet RA springs and no sway bar. Waiting on a K-member, A-arms, new front spindles (with longer studs to fit some RaceStars and skinnies), and some Lakewood 90/10 drag struts will round off the front end. Maybe a new radiator support too but it's not an essential piece. Hoping to knock a tenth off the 60's and Run full time in the 11's.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Shocks and brackets are installed and I set the shocks to the lowest recommended settings and it feels stock. I then turned them to the highest setting recommended setting for my HP and damn they are hard. Can't imagine needing them that high but I will start low and move it up as needed. Next track appearance will be at the end of the month and this time I hope to remember to turn on the data logging.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Went back to the track with new shocks and brackets I was having issues with squat and rebound and I fixed the squat problem. Now that I have that squared away there is the timing of when to hit the juice. I hit it too early in the 60' and blew off the tires. Rebound setting was too high and I was more focused on how the car responded and did not adjust the rebound where I should have. Lowest setting might have been the right choice.
I had one 60' going good but I hit the juice and spun. Ended up with a 1.84 and if I would have waited until second gear I might have seen a 1.70 or even a 1.6 if I had the rebound set right.

I also did not remove the front sway-bar, I wanted to see how the brackets and shocks changed the car.

Thinking about the relationship between compression IC and the rebound the less the car squats the sooner the rebound happens and the more important the weight needs to be shifted to the rear tires. I will pull the sway-bar for the next event and see if that will help.

Also, I broke another chunk off the programmer plug and it falls out too easy to datalog. Might make a bracket or just buy a new unit that reads everything on the screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Went back to the track Friday and no change with the shocks and the relocation brackets.

Need to get line locks and other things. I need to get it together, this is a 11 sec set up and and should be there already.

Sept will be the last shot of the year
 

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Went back to the track Friday and no change with the shocks and the relocation brackets.

Need to get line locks and other things. I need to get it together, this is a 11 sec set up and and should be there already.

Sept will be the last shot of the year
Wow, the Brackets didn't help at all? What shocks and springs are you running?

Sept is your last track day? That's a bummer. I think I'm going to start running again in Sept. i just put in some 50/50 drag shocks in the rear and some 90/10 struts up front along with a new K-member and A-arms. We'll see what this nets me. If I can go from a 1.7 to a 1.6 60', I will be skippy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow, the Brackets didn't help at all? What shocks and springs are you running?

Sept is your last track day? That's a bummer. I think I'm going to start running again in Sept. i just put in some 50/50 drag shocks in the rear and some 90/10 struts up front along with a new K-member and A-arms. We'll see what this nets me. If I can go from a 1.7 to a 1.6 60', I will be skippy.
I am running Strange double adjustable and still have yet to figure out the settings for this car. The springs are stock and this off season I will be lowering the car.

I am not doing a good enough burn and as soon as these tires start to get warm the grab in the burnout box and me holding the breaks the tires slow down too much to get them hot enough. I tried starting out in drive and dropped it to 3rd but the car walked sideways in the box every time so I had to stop. They are the stock pads and rotors back there and very worn so I don't think they grab evenly. No mater which lane I am in it walks to the right in the box.
 

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You need tires. You're still running a normal street tire, right? Just because you're running i
on a prepped track doesn't mean it works for any tires. A prepped track is very smooth, unlike the texture of a concrete road, and a all season tire is like driving on ice when you put it on a track. A drag radial will net you a greater improvement, especially with nitrous you'll never get a regular tire yo work with nitrous.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was getting 1.8 60's on the stock 235/17 Pirelli tires but that was while I was NA. Now I am running Drag Radials @ 16 lbs 275/40R 17 MT. It's what I am failing to get done in the box that is making me fail on the run. I am hitting the Juice off the light at 2,500 rpms with the 3k stall converter and this combination is too much. Still no Video to see what both tires are doing in the box. All I have is the ability to drop both mirrors and look and see just a wisp of smoke before the I have to get out of it and it just is not enough information so I have to assume.

If I use the line locks I believe I can stay in the box longer and centered.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Line locks arrived, looks like this weekend I will see if I can do the install and try out the launch control.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Line locks worked fine, got the tires hot after dealing with some other issues. Tires hook finally but I also pulled back the Nitrous so the hit came later. 1.83 60' leaving at 3k off the engine.
The nitrous before was hitting at 1/2 throttle and that was way too soon. I was very lucky I only went sideways and had to get out of it.

8 more months before I get to the track.
 
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