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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finally starting assembly of my motor after it has sat for nearly 4 years and I learned some important lessons.
1: Apparently its bad for your crank to store it laying on its side for extended periods of time.. Most of you proabaly already know this, but you are supposed to store it standing up, to keep it from warping... There goes a brand new crank, DOH!
2: Don't get all your machine work done, cover the block in oil and a garbage bag, and not check it for a year or two. The oil can sometimes drain from the cylinder walls and leave them bare for rust to work its magic.. I may have bored the cylinder walls another 10 thousandths with just the hone just to get the pits out, haha oops.

I'm sure there will be more screw-ups to come on my first build, so stay tuned for more "what not to do's"
 

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I've had a motor stored in oil for 7 years in a garbage bad and it never rusted...did you store it outside or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, you would think so right?? Thats what I was thinking.. I doused that thing too, and I made sure that there were no holes in the bag. Beats me, I screwed something up somehow. It was in a dehumidified (and finished) basement of a brand new house too.
 

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that's weird...leftover coolant in the block maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know.. would that be possible after having all the machine work done? I had it hot tanked, bored, and align honed. I would think that the magnaflux would rid the block of any coolant left in it, right? I've never actually seen it done, so I'm just assuming it is filled with fluid when they hot tank it.

In any event, I'm allright as for as bore goes, because I'm doing a nitrous motor and end gap is right where I want it now.. and I didn't even have to do any filing, haha.
 

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Well after machine work...it should be good for storage with a little oil.
That sucks. Make sure your piston to bore clearance isn't too big. They'll rock in the bores and cause premature ring failure and piston skirt damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
you store heads stood on end too...........for the same reason...........
.... oh crap.

How do I check piston to bore clearance, just like it sounds? Whats acceptable clearance? I am .030 over if that makes a difference.
 

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Your pistons should have a recommended piston to bore clearance, much over that is no good.
 

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mic the piston at top and bottom - if there is any difference, use the large end. That should all be on the instructions though.
 

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sorry to hear your having trouble man......i had heard that about storing the crank but not the head like tmoss said.....thats cool
 

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When I store blocks for a long time, I either smear grease on the cylinder walls, head surface, and oil pan rails (if it's been machined) or spray WD40/PB blaster, etc. on the surfaces (if it's torn down but not machined) to keep rust away. That usually works. This post made me realize I have a crank on it's side in the garage, I moved it while I was cleaning last fall and left it on a shelf! D'oh!

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok thanks guys, I'll definitely check the clearance and make sure I'm within tolerance. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress of the build.
 
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