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Discussion Starter #1
alright so I have assembled 90% of the motor and I have 2 questions:

One I am using my stock rockers on the heads but I broke 2 of the bolts out of the 16 from "over-torquing" I would assume since I was tighting them down... should I be worried about the other 14 breaking in the future? and if so where can I order a set because advanced, napa, and/or autozone only have packs of 4 for $17

And two I have a stock coil and distributor running on this 10.9:1 CR motor... I am running 93 octane with 1 gallon of 110 for "added protection", as well as 9mm wires, should I be worried about the spark blowing out? should I replace the coil and distrib.? what kind of spark plugs and gap should I run? and where should I initial set my timing to for the first start... 0* or -1*?
 

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if u broke 2 headbolts u need to get them out and replace them... they have 8 on each head for a reason. your spark shouldnt blow out u should get a new like msd blaster coil and cap and rotor just in case. as long as its timed right i think 11-14 drgreese advance.
 

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yeah your spark wont blow out unless you have a ton of boost but since that isnt the case. I would change the bolts for sure ( what are you torquing them to?). The coil is def a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
they were rocker arm bolts, and I bought a coil and new cap/rotor.... but I am not really sure what to set the timing too.
 

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with the timing start at about 12-14, just for break in

im not sure, are they pedestal?, or stud rockers?.....you should replace them just to be safe
 

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ya i say replace them 17 dollars now could save u hundreds later.. cap/rotor/coil is a good idea.. there is a guy on craigslist here in phoenix selling a mas 6A box for $70
 

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i would go buy enough bolts to replace them all. thats just me, but if i broke two i would replace them all, just incase they decided to break on me later. getting a new MSD coil and ignition box is your best bet, and i agree with the 11 to 14 degree timing just to start out with through the break in period, but i would start there and maybe while its running adjust it so it runs the best and adjust as needed throughout the break in period, then after its broken in you can adjust for performance or whatever you desire

your plugs will be fine, just go buy the plugs you want to run and check the clearance fot the stock 302 then adjust it slightly open for your 306
 

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Discussion Starter #8
...well can someone explain to me advancing and retarding timing using the distributor...

I know it has to do with the angle of the "connector" when compared to the block, but I dont know what each angle advances/retards timing?
 

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you rotate the distributor to advance or retard timing. One way is advance, the other is retard. You have to use a timing light to set the timing.
 

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Dont forget to pull the jumper before you do so, otherwise the computer will just compensate for the advance or retard.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea the motor is out of the car right now... but when I put it back in I will do that.

I have another question that popped in my head last night, after being so wrapped up in rebuilding this engine I completely forgot about fuel...

the engine is a 306 with GT-40 heads and KB domed pistons... I have no clue how much power its going to make and thus what size injectors I will need or if I even need larger than the stock 19lbers. any guesses?
 

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yea the motor is out of the car right now... but when I put it back in I will do that.

I have another question that popped in my head last night, after being so wrapped up in rebuilding this engine I completely forgot about fuel...

the engine is a 306 with GT-40 heads and KB domed pistons... I have no clue how much power its going to make and thus what size injectors I will need or if I even need larger than the stock 19lbers. any guesses?
It's going to depend on your car. Mine has H/C/I and it ran rich with 19lbers Get it dynoed and have your A/F ratio checked. I can't imagine you needing anything over 24lbers with that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
if I can get 30# inj and 70mm Calibrated MAF will the engine's comp. compensate for the "oversized injectors"? because I can get that for about $180 but 24# w/ 73mm MAF for $230..
 

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