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Discussion Starter #1
My plan is like this
wash
clay with mothers
Meguiars M105
Meguiars M205
Blackfire wet diamond
Poorboys world nattys paste wax

My questions are I plan to buy a porter cable 7424 from autogeek. They have combos avaiable and I haveno experience with these. What pads do I need to apply each product and at what setting to apply? And do I apply with mahcine and remove by hand for everything? Also do I need a fine polish after M205? I have been reading up for days and just want to clear these up. Thanks
 

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Happy Man
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Usually you compound at 5-6 (depending on how much you need to get out and the product you are using)
Polish at 4-5
Wax/Sealant 2-3

Remove everything by hand. I apply some liquid wax with my DA but most waxes by hand. I apply sealant using the DA.

I went from m105 - m205 straight to a wax (after doing an IPA wipedown and my car looks great. If you get done with m205 and see hazing still then I would get a fine polish. Your car looks like it's black so it will show most defects a lot better than mine does. Pick up some Chemical Guys v38 or some Menzerna sf4500 for finishing polish.
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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8,609 Posts
My plan is like this
wash
clay with mothers
Meguiars M105
Meguiars M205
Blackfire wet diamond
Poorboys world nattys paste wax

My questions are I plan to buy a porter cable 7424 from autogeek. They have combos avaiable and I haveno experience with these. What pads do I need to apply each product and at what setting to apply? And do I apply with mahcine and remove by hand for everything? Also do I need a fine polish after M205? I have been reading up for days and just want to clear these up. Thanks
Im a fan of final polishing but alot of people recommend just a 2 step correction on your first time, there is a learning curve with getting your polishing technique down, thats one of the biggest factors in getting really consistent results. So you dont NEED a final polish but on a darker color its a good idea, i always do on my black Mach 1

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Griots-Garage-6-inch-Random-Orbital-Polisher-Base-Kit_p_683.html
hats kit I would get..I would say 2 yellow, 2 green and a black pad
yellow would be for compounding green would be for polishing. Black would be for a final polish or glaze you want to apply.
Griots DA ftw man, i love mine.

Listen to this guy, he used to drive what you do OP lol. I would normally recommend an orange pad with 105 as a starting point but ive heard the newer mustangs paint is very hard and thus takes more time and more cut to polish, and since Vader has had some 1 on 1 time with a newer one, i think his suggestion of a yellow pad is most likely a good idea. I would order 2 5 packs if you can afford it, itll save you from having to wash your pads as often as you correct. I have about 20 pads and im about to order more lol.

I personally usually final polish using a blue pad and get stellar results, but if you get a really good finish with 205 then black pad should suffice. Just play around with polish/pad combos and see what you think looks best, every car is different.

Vader post some pics of that black beast you SO stupidly gave up, give OP some inspiration....lol
 

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Gg 5.5"
105 hydro tech cyan pads
205 hydro tech tangerine pads
Atleast 3 of each
I haven't been that impressed with the Poorboys products I've used id recommend a chemical guys wax or dodo juice wax
Sealant bfwdps is the ****
Sf4500 if you want to three step but, you won't lol
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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8,609 Posts
I would say go with a wax for now.

Chemical Guys XXX is an AMAZING wax for the money, its only 20 bucks pot.
 

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Happy Man
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I would say go with a wax for now.

Chemical Guys XXX is an AMAZING wax for the money, its only 20 bucks pot.
Dude, seriously. . . 20 bucks for a quality wax is ridiculously cheap. You'd pay almost that much for NXT 2.0 so +1 to this.
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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8,609 Posts
Dude, seriously. . . 20 bucks for a quality wax is ridiculously cheap. You'd pay almost that much for NXT 2.0 so +1 to this.
For sure, i cant wait to see how durable it is. Its a great starting point for beginners since it applies really well and has a bonding time. A good intro into the professional detailing world.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got it all done, ended up just getting griots grarage DA and claying and sealing with blackfire at speed setting 3 with a lake country blue pad. Didn't see the need to polish just yet with the car being new and didn't see any reason to apply wax over a sealant so I did 2 thin coats of blackfire. It looks great. I also clayed my windows while I was at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dude, seriously. . . 20 bucks for a quality wax is ridiculously cheap. You'd pay almost that much for NXT 2.0 so +1 to this.
I ended up buying the XXX but decided it was pointless to apply over 2 coats of sealant. I feel as if it would not bind to the paint and wouldnt last long at all.
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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I ended up buying the XXX but decided it was pointless to apply over 2 coats of sealant. I feel as if it would not bind to the paint and wouldnt last long at all.
When u layer BFWD, there is like a 6 or 8 hour cure time between layers dont forget, and 2 coats is plenty. Adding xxx on top will give u a better look and help your paint bead water, repel crap, and give u better beading than bfwd alone.

Your ride is very well protected now man, way to go.

Ps. About polishing: If u dont already have one, get a 1000w halogen worklight, wash your car, then turn that puppy on and look at it in the reflection of your paint and youll want to polish. New or not, there will be defects/swirls all over your paint from the "detailer" who washed your car at the dealership. Your car has alot more potential to reflect and shine once the defects are removed. If u use the light and dont see much its the bfwd/xxx covering them up.

Sent from the cell
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When u layer BFWD, there is like a 6 or 8 hour cure time between layers dont forget, and 2 coats is plenty. Adding xxx on top will give u a better look and help your paint bead water, repel crap, and give u better beading than bfwd alone.

Your ride is very well protected now man, way to go.

Ps. About polishing: If u dont already have one, get a 1000w halogen worklight, wash your car, then turn that puppy on and look at it in the reflection of your paint and youll want to polish. New or not, there will be defects/swirls all over your paint from the "detailer" who washed your car at the dealership. Your car has alot more potential to reflect and shine once the defects are removed. If u use the light and dont see much its the bfwd/xxx covering them up.

Sent from the cell
Yes I waited a full day in between coats, and I am going to order a light rite now with my other order from autogeek, but I have seen mixed reviews about applying a wax over a sealant. How does the wax adhere to a sealant when its supposed to stick to the paint? And does it not destroy the sealant when you are buffing?
 

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Potato
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Apply the wax by hand, it will only add more protection. If you have spent clay, use it on your wheels. Apply a coating to the wheels after the clay. If you apply sealant to your windows it acts like rain-x that lasts a hell of alot longer. Welcome to the addiction.
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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Yes I waited a full day in between coats, and I am going to order a light rite now with my other order from autogeek, but I have seen mixed reviews about applying a wax over a sealant. How does the wax adhere to a sealant when its supposed to stick to the paint? And does it not destroy the sealant when you are buffing?
Once the sealant penetrates the pores of the paint and is bonded and cured, its gonna take alot more than rubbing it with a Microfiber to get it off, while sealants are designed to repel rain/dirt/crap, they are not SO nonstick that a wax wont adhere to them. And most waxes and sealants dont interfere chemically to my knowledge. Just wait until your sealant is 100% cured. Id give it overnight, buff it, then wax it.

Wax over sealant is a winning combo man, Id do 2 coats of BFWD under 2 coats of XXX. Gonna look really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You guys have forced me to head to my garage and apply the wax by hand, as for the claying the wheels and wax, I think that would be a little hard to do everywhere on my AMR wheels but thanks again because now I have the idea in my head and am probably going to do it rite after I post this. Pics to follow. But honestly I really hope the wax doesn't compromise the hardwork of prepping and applying that sealant lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Apply the wax by hand, it will only add more protection. If you have spent clay, use it on your wheels. Apply a coating to the wheels after the clay. If you apply sealant to your windows it acts like rain-x that lasts a hell of alot longer. Welcome to the addiction.
Im going to give those suggestions a try, btw did u ever do the seat delete
 

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Someone correct me if im wrong but wont the holagen lights from say home depot/lowes work also
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Someone correct me if im wrong but wont the holagen lights from say home depot/lowes work also
Yeah I looked at autogeeks lights and there like 40 bucks for one little handheld bulb lol ill be getting the 1000w halogen lights and stand soon.
 

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I'm, Ron Burgundy?
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yes they work just as well. As long as its 1000w of light output. I bought my craftsman from sears
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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Yeah I looked at autogeeks lights and there like 40 bucks for one little handheld bulb lol ill be getting the 1000w halogen lights and stand soon.
I got a cheap worklight from Homedepot or lowes for like 35 bucks. Bought a 6 pack of 500w bulbs for 16 bucks, for if/when the bulbs go. I also have a dual xenon handheld spotlight i paid 31 dollars for. Love that thing, its a swirl finder for sure.
 
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