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Discussion Starter #43
Haha you know I'm just messing with you, but like I said you will never be done there is always some kind of fiddling to do with a build time this.

Those stainless rings need immediate action 10 minutes is to long as you'll be in operating temperature and your seat window has disappeared.
I have no problem always tinkering with it. Keep in mind that I've been boosted for 3 years or so now, there is always something that needs attention with those setups.

But I'm not loving having the transmission and engine out for months at a time. I look forward to getting it assembled and limiting my work on it to several hour long projects that can be done over a 6 pack on a lazy Saturday.

Seems awful quick. How can you even be sure about your tune by then?
If you have made major changes since the last tune, the average guy can't be sure about his tune if he is doing it on the street. When I had my old setup with SS rings, I tried to setup the new motor as closely to my old one as possible when I was breaking it in. Fortunately for me, I was already tuned on e85 with cams and 12psi, so all I had to do is keep my stock blower pulley on for break-in, then pulley it down once the rings were seated and I could start messing with the tune.

Normally your best option is to break it in on a dyno. Loading the car on decel really helps seat the rings, and that is more easily accomplished on a dyno rather than trying to downshift in traffic to slow it down haha.

Yeah,me. Not a failure because i'm not installing that crap. I hope you own a micrometer. Id be curious to see what you find
I don't own a micrometer, but I do have access to one. I might bring them in to work and check them if it looks like this really could be an issue. Like I said though, I have yet to hear of any first hand accounts of them being out of spec.
 

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Thats because most people just put things in and dont know any better
How are they supposed to know any better not to trust the gears? You cant know any better then me or you sitting here telling people our thoughts on something. Ive still not seen any proof that these are junk why dont you prove it? I would love to see some facts on these oil pump gears, not that i would ever use them but for other people who might think they are great and end up costing them a motor if they are crap as you mentioned.
 

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Dont have them here to prove,nor do i need to to myself. They werent flat or round by any means. They are machined with an endmill,which is not correct to me. Tool marks everywhere. Gears wont turn inside each other smoothly. Ill pass. The
Tss gears it has now are perfect in every way in comparison. Maybe his are fine,i have no idea. See if theres a ridge on the outside would be one thing to chck for
 

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Yes ide prefer not to have all those marks in mine even if they were silky smooth, it tells me that either the tooling process or the quality of the metal is a little sketchy.
 

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Id like to see a picture of his up close to see if its like this. All the pics i see are of them still in the shrink wrap with that awesome certificate that means nothing.lol
 

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It sure can kinda like those bottom head bolts on the 5.0 motors if yo dont RTV them it will leak.
Just an update Pate and flyboy. Wasn't leaking out of the side bolts, turns out it was the oil filter adapter housing gasket is just barely leaking. That will be changed next oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Did you see an issue with your gears?
Still haven't seen the car since my initial post. It's 2 hours away from where I live and work now. It'll be another week or two before I have time to drive out to work on it.

Just an update Pate and flyboy. Wasn't leaking out of the side bolts, turns out it was the oil filter adapter housing gasket is just barely leaking. That will be changed next oil change.
Thanks for the info. I still might RTV my washers to the block to be safe. I don't see how it could hurt really.
 

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Id like to see a picture of his up close to see if its like this. All the pics i see are of them still in the shrink wrap with that awesome certificate that means nothing.lol
As far as I can tell my company is the only company that actually inspects the gear for the operating performance in the oil pump housing. We have over 450 units shipped in the mustang markets with 0 failures, and 0 reports of abnormal pressure\operation. I know this because my parts come with a full refund or exchange policy, and I would have been contacted if there was an issue to at least get their $200 back.

So far a company in Florida has said my Coyote gears exploded in a car 2 months before I shipped the first Coyote unit, and that same shop said one of my gears chipped in a housing, but can't produce any pictures or get me in contact with the customer to learn more about the issue.

You are welcome to check the factory manuals in Mazda, Nissian, and other makes which state the critical clearances in the oil pump and check it against our numbers.

We have been doing this for 12 years with the exact same tolerances and finishes we use in the Mustang market and we have zero failures and zero issues in every single car market. My only complaints and critiques came from competing shops, and the biggest complaint I get from vendors is that I don't mark the product up enough for them to sell it for enough profit. They may refuse to sell it as is, but I offer to private label for the company, they take my 200 dollar product and mark it up to 350 and sell it. Same gear, different logo, suddenly my gears go from "low quality" to "XYZ BRAND!! NOT LIKE THAT OTHER TRASH!" Interesting to see really ;)
 

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As far as I can tell my company is the only company that actually inspects the gear for the operating performance in the oil pump housing. We have over 450 units shipped in the mustang markets with 0 failures, and 0 reports of abnormal pressure\operation. I know this because my parts come with a full refund or exchange policy, and I would have been contacted if there was an issue to at least get their $200 back.

So far a company in Florida has said my Coyote gears exploded in a car 2 months before I shipped the first Coyote unit, and that same shop said one of my gears chipped in a housing, but can't produce any pictures or get me in contact with the customer to learn more about the issue.

You are welcome to check the factory manuals in Mazda, Nissian, and other makes which state the critical clearances in the oil pump and check it against our numbers.

We have been doing this for 12 years with the exact same tolerances and finishes we use in the Mustang market and we have zero failures and zero issues in every single car market. My only complaints and critiques came from competing shops, and the biggest complaint I get from vendors is that I don't mark the product up enough for them to sell it for enough profit. They may refuse to sell it as is, but I offer to private label for the company, they take my 200 dollar product and mark it up to 350 and sell it. Same gear, different logo, suddenly my gears go from "low quality" to "XYZ BRAND!! NOT LIKE THAT OTHER TRASH!" Interesting to see really ;)
Its nice to see a product sold at a fair price im glad you came on here to set this straight. Had these gears been out before i paid 400 for mine i would have used them. There is way to much mark up on some parts.
 

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These didnt fail,cause im not putting that in a motor...every tolerance on that part (in my hand)was garbage. And no,i have no interest in selling competing gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I still have not had time to go to the garage since my initial post. I'll be there this weekend I imagine, so I'll get some close up pics of the gears for you all then.
 

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What clearances

These didnt fail,cause im not putting that in a motor...every tolerance on that part (in my hand)was garbage. And no,i have no interest in selling competing gears.
So what handbook where you using to make that determination, or is this your opinion? What clearances are acceptable? I have a stock Nissan pump setting in front of me that has 60 times the axial clearance of the Ford Coyote. It measures .0065 and the ford unit measures what .0002? I have a manual from Mazda that states .001-.007 (or more) on all clearances. I have gears from ford that have .125 inch slots cut in the top face that went to the V6 engines in the 90s. I guess you would throw a dial caliper across the top of these and say they aren't flat within an eighth inch!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7w_XI6fXAjdUzJ4NjJRclRjNjg/view?usp=sharing

I currently make\house brand 15 different gears for many different vehicles and I can tell you there is a VERY WIDE difference in clearances across these different brands and makes. One of the reasons the Ford unit breaks is because its too tight. The crank starts oscillating and suddenly there is no place for the gear to go. I guess you are the type of guy that tightens your main caps and rods to the lowest clearance possible, meanwhile the professionals are doing it all wrong running .003 rod and .002 main clearances.

Do you have anything to back up what you are saying, or is this all opinion?
 

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Typical response...you have them back. Measure it yourself. And youre not talking to an average person with no experience. Dial calipers were not used here. Bt im sure you already know that,and will have another neat response. Stock gears are flat and round.other billet gears are flat and round.yours were about .003 difference. Im very aware of machining procedures,and cutting these out on a mill is not the way i want it done. Circle milling is not a preferred method of getting something round.which was obvious on the part in question. The OD,and the ID is rough as ****. Wont even rotate correctly inside each other. You run em,ill pass. And not sure where i said anything about them being tight.
 

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Don't scare me like that Pate! I'm glad you agree on the clearances though. An extra set of eyes always helps.



I'll go ahead and give you all an update:

Boundary billet gears came in. They came with a spec sheet with a wax seal saying they were hand inspected. I absolutely loved the quality of the packaging.


Here is where I messed up:


I had several beers in me when I started filing the ring. Those of you familiar with Total Seal rings know that they come almost gapless from the factory. I was getting about about .006" of gap per revolution of the ring filer (I was checking it in the bore after every rev).

So I started off, gap was .008". No problem. Turned it again.
Gap was .014". Gave it one more spin hoping to get close to my .022" target and went to check it in the bore.

It measured somewhere between .030 and .035". No idea what I did different that time. Must have pressed harder or something. Either way I ****ed up my $30 spare ring lol. At this point, I am going to just order a new set of 8 so I don't cost myself anymore down time.

My main issue with this thing is time. The car is still in my hometown sitting 2 hours away from where I live and work. It's hard to get off work, make that drive, and bust your ass on this thing. In May/June I will be getting a house with a garage and can continue working on it then.

So anyway, long story short, I'm not losing interest or anything. Life is just crazy for me right now. Keep an eye on this thread, I'll keep updating it as I make progress. This will not turn into another Wickedsnake or SSG Pate build thread, I promise. :grin2: It'll be done in a month or two tops.
Hey its been a month since you were talking smack about how long my build and others was taking and your still not moving very fast LOL i told you that these things can take forever.
 
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