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I have a fidanza flywheel and love it. word of advice, if you do an aluminum flywheel, get studs for the pressure plate and dont use bolts
 
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Discussion Starter #3
great info

Thank you, I would never have thought of that!
:cool:
 

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I run the spec billet steel flywheel its only a little heavier than a aluminum one. And its stronger
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
thanks

:cool:Cool that's one of the one's ive been looking at too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
lol

Ya cosmetics will come later, right now it needs to run. I am about to do my clutch etc and since that happening i figure i might as well get the flywheel. I will most likely end up with a nice new deep dish, but that wont be for a bit. My priority is to get it back in service and running strong.:mad:
Hb new wheels instead of a flywheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
By the way, its funny about these wheels. I get so many mixed comments, both people online and in real life. I get tons of people who love the wheels and a few who dislike them, people actually walk up and touch them all the time and my neighbors kid is attracted to them like a shark to blood its really weird. lol Personally, its time for a change and I have had these rims for like 7-8 years or somethin. They were on my old front wheel drive intrepid and I kept them when I sold the car for next to nothing. They are bolted up with adapters right now and only rated to 400hp, I plan to exceed that number pretty soon I hope so they will no longer be safe to have on anymore. I might even throw my stock 17" Pony wheels back on, they are alot wider and made for the car. Honestly I am not into Blingy Chrome wheels anymore, i need a nice deep dish Cobra type wheel.
 

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Get a billet steel flywheel or have the stock one resurfaced and save a lot of money. The car will rev faster with an aluminum flywheel but because of the lost inertia you will have to rev the car a lot higher to get moving from stop lights, etc. The RPM will also fall off a lot faster between shifts.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
RRRReeeeaaaaaally

RRRREeeeeeaaaally, yet another brilliant comment from this forum. I never would have thought of that one. So If i dint want to pay to have it resurfaced which will also take alot longer and since Im not doing the work myself on this one I should just buy a new stock replacement? Which one should I get?? Billet:sorry
Get a billet steel flywheel or have the stock one resurfaced and save a lot of money. The car will rev faster with an aluminum flywheel but because of the lost inertia you will have to rev the car a lot higher to get moving from stop lights, etc. The RPM will also fall off a lot faster between shifts.
 

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Or find a good used one and have it resurfaced. It shouldn't really take that long to do the work. Its similar to machining brake rotors. I used my stock 98 flywheel with the spec stage 3 without a problem for probably 20-25K miles before swapping the stick for the automatic. The clutch and flywheel are still my buddies car that I traded with.
 

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It's up to you which flywheel. either you rev faster and free up a couple horsepower from relieving a slight bit of drivetrain loss from the aluminum, or you get to drive a bit easier with the steel. But I have a question from the pictures you posted, please tell me you're not only holding the car up with that mini-jack? You do have jackstands that just aren't in the picture correct? If not, you REALLY need to get some jackstands, especially for a job like this.
 

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agree on reusing the factory steel flywheel. have a machine shop prepped for when you take it off so they can turn it around right away. all you'll get from an aluminum flywheel in a mostly stock drivetrain is bragging rights and you'll pay too much money for that.

we went to aluminum flywheels on our race cars to get that last ounce of power to the tires when accelerating out of corners and i honestly didn't notice a difference with or without it. not saying you won't, i just don't think it's worth the money...
 

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Get a billet steel flywheel or have the stock one resurfaced and save a lot of money. The car will rev faster with an aluminum flywheel but because of the lost inertia you will have to rev the car a lot higher to get moving from stop lights, etc. The RPM will also fall off a lot faster between shifts.
i use to hear this all the time before i purchased mine and i have experienced absolutely none of these things after i put mine in.
 

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I say if your putting a clutch in your car and you want an alum flywheel go for it. That's exactly what im going to do when I replace my clutch. I would.def go with a good one tho not a cheap one. Weight off of the rotating mass=freed up power same concept as alum driveshaft
 
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i use to hear this all the time before i purchased mine and i have experienced absolutely none of these things after i put mine in.
I would say you are the exception rather than the rule then. I drove a fox GT that belongs to nxcoupe. It has a big inch windsor it in that makes north or 500 ft-lbs. of torque and the aluminum flywheel was instantly noticeable.
 

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we run an aluminum fw in our 800+ hp maverick and wouldnt have it any other way.
 

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my car came factory with a aluminum flywheel, so swaping out for a billet steel flywheel was a big change with the spec 3+ clutch. now that everything is broken in the car drives like stock even at low speeds. i like it but at the same time the car drove fine with the stock cobra clutch and the aluminum flywheel.
 
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