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Forged Rotating Kits

4K views 102 replies 19 participants last post by  willsurforbeer9 
o definatly if you stil want cams and heads their are some good ones out there go on summit and see they have alot of good stuff get comp cams and ford racing heads then forge and sc youll run in the 450 rwhp range
It would do more than that. I still stock heads and make more.
 
Show me a 4.6 2v making 450 at 9psi with stock heads and cams. Plus I would have to see what the car traps in the 1/4 to believe it.


Oh and one more misconception(on the web) to clear up. IF your not going to turn that motor more than 7000 RPM don't bother with the forged crank, stick with the stock and save yourself a grand(counting flywheel).

A 1000 dollars? :eek:

The MMR mod 600 is only 3 hundred less than the mod 900. The mod 900 has the forged crank and better rods. I used a 2k gt flywheel I already had.. You can get a 2kgt 8 bolt flywheel for about 150.
 
hmm the mod900 basicly is a direct swap right? i could just take everything i need from the stock motor and put it on that one or am i wrong? i was thinking of forging the stock block but it would be better if i could just slap another shortblock in it since my motor already has about 115k miles on it
Yep thats about it. By the time you buy all the parts and have all the machine work done its almost as cheap too, with out all the headaches.

Edit for my last post the mmr 900 is 400 more not 300, but you do get better rods and crank.
 
unless youve owned a car that has had 400+hp and you got the need for more just get the KB,exhaust and tune and you well put down about 400hp and you well be more than satisfied
It's never enough because it's an addiction. At first it's oh wow this is fun. But later on it loses it's appeal.

My car always feels a little slow to me now.
 
Well I have an 02 which means I would have had to buy the 3650 8-bolt flywheel. And I built mine didn't buy it so I would have had to buy the crank separate. It all added up to about 1000.00 with the tax and shipping.

I have had an 02 motor in mine when I did the swap. The block I bought would fit yours too. I also have a tr3650 trans in mine. The 8 bolt gt flywheel works in both the t-45 and the tr3650. A new Ford 8 bolt flywheel in only a 150.

I wanted a professional built shortblock with no short cuts taken.
 
Im between getting the MMR Street MOD 800 shortblock or the 5.0 stroker street mod 850. I would put stage 2 heads and cam in it. Cam depends on if I want to blow it or spray the motor.
The piston dish would be a factor too.

As far as nitrous vs blower. Do you want temporary or permanent hp? I mean if you like filling bottles every 90secs of WOT, then nitrous is for you.

The mmr 900 is their best value as far as I'm concerened. It also costs 400 less than the 850 strocker. I feel a stock bore and stroke allows for higher reving and more durability..
 
Yeah that is the better deal. Im thinking of getting their stage 2 heads as well. Are they better than the patriot heads? anyone know?
Well I had a friend that bought their heads and put them on my old short block so far he's happy with them, but hasn't dynoed yet because he's waiting for his stall converter. He put the motor in a 94 T-Bird.
 
The guy that balanced my assembly builds modified race car motors and owns his own team. Cool guy. He was the one as well he turned me on to the diesel spec oil (Rotella, ect). Obvisously the balancing you have to have done unless you have the ability to spin the assembly in your garage. But as far as clearances I disagree. If your not a complete dumbass and can read a shim gauge you can assemble the motor. It's NOT that difficult if you follow the correct procedures. And not saying that people that pay for it are dumb. I'm just a cheap ass and figured I could do it.

MMR has huge shop. a race team, and they specialize in building Modular engines.

I bet after you get everything together, machined balanced and assembled, if you save anything it would be very little. Plus running everywhere getting the work done is a headache. Not to mention its easier just to wait until the shortblock shows up. Then you can assemble it in any garage with basic hand tools. Plus in my case I received notched pistons and free APR main bolts. Plus a discount on their HO oil pump.

I want them to measure more than just the gaps with a shim gauge. I want the rod bolt stretch measured. The crankshaft run out etc. What kind of mircometers did you use? How about getting the file to fit rings measured just right for a particular application? MMR knows this because they build and test modular engines all the time, with different set ups and in different environments.

Hell you didn't know that you could use a 10.5" 8 bolt clutch and flywheel from 99-00 with tr3650. The input shaft on both the t-45 and tr3650 are the same.

I'm sure your engine runs fine but I wouldn't put as much stock in it, as a shortblock built by a company, that builds modular race engines exclusively, and does their own R&D
 
Ok got my mind set.

MMR street mod 900 block. All forged.
MMR stage 2 heads
Comp cam stage 2
intake im not to sure on yet.
Mac LT's
Prochamber
Flowmaster catback
JLT Intake
Suspension
315 tires on the back.

I will not be putting this motor together. A buddy of mine that just graduated from Wyotech is doing it. How much power should I be looking at? Im going with the high compression and spraying the motor.

Until you empty the bottle I would say high 400's and close to 600lbs of torque. I would ask MMR how much more they want have it ready to drop in. The could ship it as a long block with heads installed. You could ship them your timing chains guides etc.

MMR Street Mod 900 2V Longblock

This Fully forged MMR longblock can handle up to 900HP. They include the
MMR Street Mod 900 shortblock with Forged MMR/Manley Pistons, 4340
Forged Manley H-Beam Rods w/ARP bolts, Forged Crankshaft fully balanced
and blueprinted in a Brand new 03/O4 Cobra or Windsor Block, and fully
assembled with new Ford Motorsport PI heads, ARP head studs, MMR/Felpro
head gaskets, New factory Ford Motorsport Valves, springs, retainers,
lifters, roller followers with factory PI cams professionally
timed/degreed with new timing chains,guides, tensioners and a High
Volume oil pump.
Just add your Valve covers, oil pan and timing cover and GO!

Options:
Upgrade to BOSS 302 Iron block (will produce 5.0 Liters) +$2099.99
Brand New Current production Aluminum Block +$799.99
Upgrade to Stroker shortblock (Produces 5.0 Liters or 5.3 with BOSS 302 Block)+ $799

Upgrade to MMR Street/Racing Oil pump +$99
Upgrade to Stage 1 Ported Heads +$599
Upgrade to Stage 2 Ported Heads +$699
Upgrade to Stainless steel Valves +$275
Upgrade to High Lift Valve springs +$239
Add ARP Main Studs +$169
Upgrade to Stage 1-3 Camshafts +$639
Add MMR 7qrt Street/Racing Oil Pan +$209
Upgrade to ARP 2000 Rod bolts +$99
 
Wouldnt the short block plus the stage 2 heads and stage 2 cam make more power over the longblock with the ford motorsports heads and factory PI cam? The long block might be a little cheaper but are the heads and cams better than the stage 2's?
the mod 900 long is 5299.99 That includes HO oil pump. Head gaskets , head studs, Timing assembly chains tensioners etc. Cams degreed, heads mounted the works.
So
5299.99 long block
.699.99 upgrade stage two heads
.239.99 upgrade valve springs
.639.99 upgrade cam shaft ask for the pi cams also could sell
.139.99 upgrade main studs.
--------------------------------------------------
7019.95
Ready to go.

or the way you're thinking now

2899.99 MMR mod 900
1399.99 MMR stage 2 heads
.239.99 valve springs
.599.99 Cams whty the price is different here i do not know
..99.99 ho oil pump
.169.99 Apr main studs. They charge more with short than long
.369.99 heads studs and head gaskets
.359.99 new timing chain chains tensiners and guides< guess
..29.99 new block guide pins for heads and timing chain cover etc
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
6058.98
But you have to assemble everything and time & degree the cams. Making sure the all torque specs are correct.
 
I'm currently at 385 rwhp with a very rich tune running 8.9# of boost at 6000 rpm. I've scheduled an appointment for LT headers, mid-pipe, maf.i.a, and new tune. Headers will probably drop the boost to 7#s and I suspect I will be somewhere around 425 rwhp. That is where I want to stay, but if I changed the supercharger pully, I could increase the boost back to 9#s and gain another 20-25 rwhp. I have stock heads and cams.
I expect you'll loss no more than one psi, and pick up about 20-25 hp. That's if you contunue to use a safe tune.

What are your trap speeds in the 1/4? You edited out where I asked for time slips to back the dyno numbers up.
 
you can take the heads off a stock gt motor and send them to TEA (Total Engine Airflow) and get 90 hp out of some ported and polished heads alone. at the rear wheels a stock gt is 225-235 hp. send those heads off, now you're at about 315-325, headers and a good intake (bullitt, edelbrock, trick flow) and tb plenum can get you another 20-30 hp...now you're at 335-355 rwhp. throw in some cams, a cold air kit and a tune you're right in the ball park of 400 rwhp give or take some hp.
No way in hell are you going to pick up 90 hp with heads alone on a stock na gt
 
read this book before?

this stuff that was installed, and tested on the dyno...with the charts to back it up.

i'll find the page tomorrow and upload it where it says you can get 90 hp out of PI heads.
Ported pi heads on a non pi 4.6 which increases compression might pick up 60, on the old 4.6. Which only put down around 190 at the wheel to begin with. But you need a Pi intake and cams also. I have been modding these modular engines for 8 years now. You will not pull the head off a 99-04 mustang gt have it ported and pick up 90 hp. Never ever ever ever going to happen
 
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