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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Looking to replace the front lower control arms as the bushings are shot. Looking to get OPR replacements from AM.

Any tips on this? Looks as simple as removing the strut bolts, swinging the spindle assembly out of the way, removing spring, the removing bolts that hold on the control arm. Few questions

What's the best way to remove the spring? Compressor or raise the car and lower the control arm slowly with a jack til the spring comes out easily?

Does this require an alignment afterward?

Should I press out the ball joints that come with it and press in moog ones?

Thanks all
 

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King Trashmouth
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21,891 Posts
It really is pretty straightforward (provided you don't run into problems like I had, where the knuckle is seized to the ball joint.)

Just support the control arm with a jack, disconnect the strut or knuckle, and slowly, very carefully, lower it with the jack until the spring falls out. Mine hardly had any tension on it at all.

It shouldn't require an alignment, but as with most aftermarket parts, you never know.

I wouldn't bother with different ball joints.
 

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381 Posts
I just did this recently. Removing the spring depends if you have lowering springs or stock height springs. I've got lowering springs so all I did was put a jack under the control arm and let it down slowly making sure not to be in direct line of the spring then I just pulled it out. If you've got stock height springs then you might need a spring compressor. You will have to unbolt the steering rack bolts from the k-member because the front control arm bolts will hit the steering rack and there is a k-member bolt you'll have to remove in order to remove the rear control arm bolt. Then when you're putting the arm back in you'll want to tighten the bushings with the control arm supported by a jack at "normal-ish" position because if you tighten the bolts with the control arm just hanging then lift the control arm into place you will bind or damage the bushings.

Here's a great video. The YouTuber is putting on special control arms on a 98 GT but the concept and procedure is identical.

 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I just did this recently. Removing the spring depends if you have lowering springs or stock height springs. I've got lowering springs so all I did was put a jack under the control arm and let it down slowly making sure not to be in direct line of the spring then I just pulled it out. If you've got stock height springs then you might need a spring compressor. You will have to unbolt the steering rack bolts from the k-member because the front control arm bolts will hit the steering rack and there is a k-member bolt you'll have to remove in order to remove the rear control arm bolt. Then when you're putting the arm back in you'll want to tighten the bushings with the control arm supported by a jack at "normal-ish" position because if you tighten the bolts with the control arm just hanging then lift the control arm into place you will bind or damage the bushings.

Here's a great video. The YouTuber is putting on special control arms on a 98 GT but the concept and procedure is identical.

How to Install an Angle Kit (Shopping Cart Angle) - YouTube
I watched this and it helped a ton! Thanks!!!!!

-I ordered new wheel hub assemblies (I'm already in there so why not - 18 year old car). $93 from AM (free to me because I have store credit)
-Ordered MOOG lower control arm assemblies. Left from Amazon and right from Rockauto (it was cheaper this way)
-TIMKEN red wheel bearing grease
-Hub locking nuts from Amazon
-36MM socket from Amazon

While in there I need to repaint the calipers as the paint is flaking off (it was specifically designed for calipers but I guess I can't complain being 8 years old). New brake pads (Wagner Thermoquiets) with all new hardware (brake shoes and pins). Also will install new brake calipers I have laying around. Excited for this as they are new offerings from R1 Concepts

https://www.r1concepts.com/geomet

Carbon Geomet Rotors. Current ones are brake motives that are rusted to hell. According to R1- same metals and coatings used on BMW and Mercedes so it's supposed to be superior and stay rust free. Cost: Free - Christmas present

All in all this project cost me around $200 out of pocket. Nice weekend project to get done. I've budgeted an alignment if needed and a brake fluid flush (which hasn't been done since I've had the car. I know - stupid me)
 
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