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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

Ever since going with wider R-Compounds in the front of my car, I've noticed a lot of deficiencies with the current suspension setup I have. In particular, I'm running into issues with bumpsteer as well as decreased turn-in response, so I'm looking to overhaul this last part of my suspension in the GT for better/safer handling.

To provide some background, my car already has the following suspension mods:

- Eibach Pro System Plus Spings/Shocks/Struts (Lowered 1" Front, 1.5" Rear)
- Eibach Front Adjustable Sway Bar
- Eibach Fixed Rear Sway Bar
- Steeda LCA's + Relocation Brackets (Welded-In)
- BMR Adjustable Upper Rear Control ARM + Bracket
- Adjustable Panhard Bar
- Steeda Rear X-Brace
- Steeda Frame Rail & Torque Box Braces (Similar to Sub-Frame Connectors, Welded-In)
- J&M Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates

I'm looking at adding the following, can anyone chime in if there's anything I'm missing here or anything that might not work with my current setup?

- Steeda Mustang Bumpsteer Kit (05-14) Part Number: 555-8106

- Steeda Mustang Front Endlinks - Street/Comp (05-14) Part Number: 555-1053

- Steeda Billet Mustang Front Sway Bar Mounts (05-14) Part Number: 555-8113

- Steeda Mustang G-Trac Brace (05-14) Part Number: 555-5530

- BMR Front A-Arms

For the A-Arms, I'm not really sure what the difference in these sizes is and whether I'd really need the adjustable ones or not. The other thing I'm not totally sure about is if the sway bar mounts will fit the Eibach Sway-bars that I have.

I'll also mention I'm not really interested in a new K-Member at this time due to the increased NVH and complexity of the install. I did see that the suspension sticky mentions a front control arm relocation kit, but that doesn't seem to be available for 11-14's and I'm not sure if it's actually necessary.
 

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Hey Guys,

Ever since going with wider R-Compounds in the front of my car, I've noticed a lot of deficiencies with the current suspension setup I have. In particular, I'm running into issues with bumpsteer as well as decreased turn-in response, so I'm looking to overhaul this last part of my suspension in the GT for better/safer handling.

To provide some background, my car already has the following suspension mods:

- Eibach Pro System Plus Spings/Shocks/Struts (Lowered 1" Front, 1.5" Rear)
- Eibach Front Adjustable Sway Bar
- Eibach Fixed Rear Sway Bar
- Steeda LCA's + Relocation Brackets (Welded-In)
- BMR Adjustable Upper Rear Control ARM + Bracket
- Adjustable Panhard Bar
- Steeda Rear X-Brace
- Steeda Frame Rail & Torque Box Braces (Similar to Sub-Frame Connectors, Welded-In)
- J&M Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates

I'm looking at adding the following, can anyone chime in if there's anything I'm missing here or anything that might not work with my current setup?

- Steeda Mustang Bumpsteer Kit (05-14) Part Number: 555-8106

- Steeda Mustang Front Endlinks - Street/Comp (05-14) Part Number: 555-1053

- Steeda Billet Mustang Front Sway Bar Mounts (05-14) Part Number: 555-8113

- Steeda Mustang G-Trac Brace (05-14) Part Number: 555-5530

- BMR Front A-Arms

For the A-Arms, I'm not really sure what the difference in these sizes is and whether I'd really need the adjustable ones or not. The other thing I'm not totally sure about is if the sway bar mounts will fit the Eibach Sway-bars that I have.

I'll also mention I'm not really interested in a new K-Member at this time due to the increased NVH and complexity of the install. I did see that the suspension sticky mentions a front control arm relocation kit, but that doesn't seem to be available for 11-14's and I'm not sure if it's actually necessary.

Seems like a great setup to start with. I dont have experience with most of your suspension, but curious to see what wheel/tire setup your running on the front. I've got a 275 up front with no issues. I had Koni's oranges and yellows as well with no issues. What camber are you running?
 

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all i can say is Eibach Shocks and Struts are lacking. Any other strut seems to perform better with my experience. Adjustable ones will help the most
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm running 18x10 SVE Drifts and 295/30/18 Toyo R888's in the front and rear. I think part of the problem is the lack of sidewall just doesn't play well with bumpy/country roads. I was plenty happy with my Suspension previously on the stock Pirellis's, but R-Compound are a different beast.

I realize Eibach's aren't the most responsive springs out there, but they are much better than stock and necessary in Ohio's pothole-filled roads... anything stiffer and I'm sure I would have cracked a rim by now.
 

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I would think with that wide of a front on regular streets you would see the tire wanting to follow the grooves of the road and perhaps over react on input, but I'm not sure. Thats a very wide front tire size tho, and yes I realize your a squared setup. Hope someone else chimes in like whiskey.
 

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I would upgrade your dampers first and foremost.
Eibach does not make a very responsive damper. Typically they are actually going to be stiffer than say a koni yellow on half stiffness. On full soft, they are going to be quite a bit smoother riding, on full stiffness, they will take care of your track needs.
Your springs are probably fine, but personally, with the other suspension modifications you have in place.. you are really shooting yourself in the foot keeping a shock/strut setup.
I'd upgrade to a coilover setup.
It doesn't have to be an expensive one either, and it also doesn't have to be stiff.
A quality damper, with appropriate spring rates and valving, will provide a smooth, but RESPONSIVE ride everytime.
Take a look at a set of Ground Control, or ST coilovers.
I ran GC's on my '13 that I tracked and absolutely LOVED them. They were an amazing setup that produced amazing results, and Brandon444 is now in possession of my exact setup.
This is my .02, because with Eibach springs/dampers you are just limiting yourself to their capabilities, which truly aren't much.
Sure, their better than stock.. but so are the Roush dampers, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fair point lol. I think I'll look into getting Coilovers down the road definitely, I just hate to upgrade parts I already upgraded. This hobby gets expensive very quickly...
 

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Fair point lol. I think I'll look into getting Coilovers down the road definitely, I just hate to upgrade parts I already upgraded. This hobby gets expensive very quickly...
That is does, luckily, you have upgraded parts you can SELL after getting the coilovers, or just a better shock/strut combo, to help lessen the load on the wallet.
Good news is.. both options I mentioned, can be had for under $2000. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is does, luckily, you have upgraded parts you can SELL after getting the coilovers, or just a better shock/strut combo, to help lessen the load on the wallet.
Good news is.. both options I mentioned, can be had for under $2000. :)
Just wanted to a throw an update in here. I did get X11 Balljoints installed, as well as the Bumpsteer kit and the car definitely feels a lot safer overall. I still think I'm going to look around for a set of Coilovers though, what you said makes sense that all these chassis-stiffening mods I have are being limited by the Eibach setup.

How difficult is it to actually adjust the ride height and stiffness on a set of GC or ST Coilovers? Is it something I can just do with a floor jack taking each wheel off one by one or will I actually need to put it on a lift everytime I need to adjust?
 

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BC COs are nice and easy one the wallet also. lots of people run them on a budget

But like i said before your biggetst downfall is shocks/struts. i have about 25k on mine and they are shot. im going to roll with them until tax return season when i can afford BCs or Airlift.. but if i absolutly cant wait then ill buy Koni oranges or yellows.. right now would be the best time since they are on sale..
 

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Just wanted to a throw an update in here. I did get X11 Balljoints installed, as well as the Bumpsteer kit and the car definitely feels a lot safer overall. I still think I'm going to look around for a set of Coilovers though, what you said makes sense that all these chassis-stiffening mods I have are being limited by the Eibach setup.

How difficult is it to actually adjust the ride height and stiffness on a set of GC or ST Coilovers? Is it something I can just do with a floor jack taking each wheel off one by one or will I actually need to put it on a lift everytime I need to adjust?
You can definetely adjust coil overs with a jack and basic hand tools. Most specialized tool is the correct spanner wrench if you can't unload the spring enough to adjust the perch.
 

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I had BC Racing coilovers on my 2011 and would only recommend them if you drive on a glass smooth surface. They were bad, especially on the rear, which aren't true coil overs. Virtually no high speed compression damping at any setting, beat the jounce bumpers to death. I have Cortex Street S/A(rebound adjust only) now and am very happy. I had previously installed their torque arm and watts link and BMR LCA's with spherical/bushing set up and BMR relocation brackets. The rear axle articulates well and is not upset by midcorner bumps. On the front I have Boss comp control arms from Steeda with the raised ball joints ,Steeda bumpsteer kit and Ford Racing Boss 302R steering rack. For the chassis, I installed Competition Engineering frame connectors and a Steeda X brace in the trunk. Still have stock sway bars front and rear, haven't had to touch them. I really like the Cortex Racing parts, they are very well engineered. If I could do it again, I would just buy the full system at once and be done, unfortunately I piece mealed it and ended up in the same place! LOL!
 

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I had BC Racing coilovers on my 2011 and would only recommend them if you drive on a glass smooth surface. They were bad, especially on the rear, which aren't true coil overs. Virtually no high speed compression damping at any setting, beat the jounce bumpers to death. I have Cortex Street S/A(rebound adjust only) now and am very happy. I had previously installed their torque arm and watts link and BMR LCA's with spherical/bushing set up and BMR relocation brackets. The rear axle articulates well and is not upset by midcorner bumps. On the front I have Boss comp control arms from Steeda with the raised ball joints ,Steeda bumpsteer kit and Ford Racing Boss 302R steering rack. For the chassis, I installed Competition Engineering frame connectors and a Steeda X brace in the trunk. Still have stock sway bars front and rear, haven't had to touch them. I really like the Cortex Racing parts, they are very well engineered. If I could do it again, I would just buy the full system at once and be done, unfortunately I piece mealed it and ended up in the same place! LOL!
Thats a serious setup. Cortex ftw. I would have loved to have their parts. Just didnt have the extra scratch at the time.
 

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It's my daily(only) car, had around 57k miles in early 2014 when I started modding. It now has 85k and I can't stop driving it!
 
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It's my daily(only) car, had around 57k miles in early 2014 when I started modding. It now has 85k and I can't stop driving it!
Next time I'm in WP Beach I'll give you a shout on here. I'd love to feel the different in your setup.
 
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