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Abyssinian of AX
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Discussion Starter #1
Has a bit of a rough-grinding sound that does not change if under load or coasting with cluch depressed. I see them for sale all over the place, does anyone know of one NOT to use?

Obviously Ford sells one, but is this something that is OK to go aftermarket?

Jazzer :)
 

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just stick with a good brand, no white box specials, timken, national etc etc. Youll be fine, Ive used both on numerious applications and have had zero problems out of them. National is what you will find in most places, or if its not national, look on the box, will say made by national packaged for xxxxx brand.
 

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oh also does it change/lessen when you go left to right or right to left lane change?
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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Discussion Starter #4
Grazzi :D

I tend to use Napa for most of my stuff, as they are local and always been good stuff. I will try them first, but will just go to Ford if they don't have one.

Jazzer :)

Answer to above while I was typing: It does change when I turn, but mostly goes away, rather than getting louder as some have experienced.
 

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napa will have it, and napa uses/carries national bearings so you are golden
 
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Abyssinian of AX
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Discussion Starter #6
The sound is EXACTLY like this.....


Jazzer :)
 

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yeah, you have your bases covered. Id get the whole unit and not just the bearing.
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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Discussion Starter #8
I am old school and remember doing all the messy packing of bearings that are tapered. This is about as fool proof a swap as one can do.

I wonder if this swap is to prove me a fool?

Jazzer :)
 

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well you can get just the bearing, which leaves you having to press the spindle out and back into the bearing or you canjust get the whole unit and bolt it into the car
 

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For the cost vs. pain in the ass factor, the entire hub assembly is the way to go. Takes less than 30 minutes from start to finish to swap one.
 

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I just buy them for $30 each from RockAuto. The last ones I got were Timkens in some other box.
 

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just a heads up, on ford producs i would by ford timken or national,the cheaper aftermarket wheel bearings for fords are known to have problems,i work in the auto parts business on the commercial end only dealing wholesale with garages and its pretty well known in the business...just sayin.and yes to clarify im talking about the hub assemblies.
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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Discussion Starter #14
Replaced both hub/bearing assembly's..... no change in sounds :(
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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Discussion Starter #17
The sound NEVER changes in any way, other than a bit louder at times.

With/without load, with/without brakes, in gear/coasting in neutral or clutch in... no change in sound. Not a deep grind, but rather just like the little vid I linked above, just louder. Nothing touching the driveshaft, wheels, tires and even pulled the rear calipers and got into the e-brake drum system... nothing. Not dragging, cables are not pulling shoes outward. Sounds like it did when the e-brake cable was rubbing on the inside lip of the wheel and was touching the spiral wrap around the cable. I can run my hand all the way around all four wheels and nothing is dragging. Motor RPM is not a factor and can begin to hear it at the moment the car moves from a stop at .1 MPH. It is much quieter at this point, but only gets louder and unmistakable grinding sound. It must not be too loud outside, as people along the sidewalks during test drives don't give me funny looks or anything.

I know this is gonna turn out to be something simple, but I have spend all weekend trying to figure it out.
 

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I just recently replaced my wheel bearing hub. I was experiencing grinding and a squeaking. Eventually we found out that it was the wheel bearing hub and the brake pads on the rear were previously installed backwards. We flipped them and the sound went away.....Best of luck figuring it all out Jazzer!
 

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when did it start? was there one event that started this sound or has it just been gradual? have you checked all your front suspension pieces to make sure nothing is loose or worn?
 
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