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MoM Fanatic
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5,056 Posts
You better go buy a lottery ticket if your block didn't crack. How much water did you put in the radiator?
exactly youre probably looking for a new block. somthing you may try is putting some extreme low temp coolant in and trying to melt it slowly. i think youre fked though.
 

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Canon Gang
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ever put a soda can in the freezer and forgot about it?

Beginning of the video has a message btw.
 

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Will Eat Spam From Your Butt
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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, I ran out, let the car run for a bit, gave her a couple of revs, she seems ok. No milk on the dipstick or cap, exhaust looks normal. I took a pic of the cap and dipper.



 

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Will Eat Spam From Your Butt
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Discussion Starter #26
Well I'm not actually driving her on a regular basis, I was just gonna take a spin to get the juices flowing. I'll take it over to the shop tomorrow and let it thaw out, fill the fluids up and see what happens. As of right now the coolant is next to empty and the oil is pretty low, so I'm hoping that will have saved my ass.
 

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MoM Fanatic
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Well I'm not actually driving her on a regular basis, I was just gonna take a spin to get the juices flowing. I'll take it over to the shop tomorrow and let it thaw out, fill the fluids up and see what happens. As of right now the coolant is next to empty and the oil is pretty low, so I'm hoping that will have saved my ass.
may have. good luck. get some damn coolant in there.
 

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Will Eat Spam From Your Butt
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Discussion Starter #28
The nice thing though is if it is blown it looks like I can get running blocks all day long for less than $400.

Theres an Explorer motor on CL for $500 I might just have to go pick up if it comes to that.
 

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meh
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5,272 Posts
Well I'm not actually driving her on a regular basis, I was just gonna take a spin to get the juices flowing. I'll take it over to the shop tomorrow and let it thaw out, fill the fluids up and see what happens. As of right now the coolant is next to empty and the oil is pretty low, so I'm hoping that will have saved my ass.
I wouldn't run it too much without the waterpump turning. Doing so will create hotspots in the heads and block, because there is no coolant flowing through everything to spread the heat evenly.
 

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Will Eat Spam From Your Butt
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Discussion Starter #30
I'm not going to. I'm gonna drive it a few blocks down to the AFB and get it into the shop so that I can thaw it out and see if its ruined, and if it is then I'll pull the motor.

I had my mom take a look at it, she thinks I need to just throw a new motor in it and call it good.
 

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Powered by LSx tears
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I wouldn't run it too much without the waterpump turning. Doing so will create hotspots in the heads and block, because there is no coolant flowing through everything to spread the heat evenly.
I'm pretty sure the heat would melt the ice that's not letting the water pump turn, before that happens.
 

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meh
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I'm pretty sure the heat would melt the ice that's not letting the water pump turn, before that happens.
I'm sure it would, but he'd be running it with the belt OFF the whole time anyway.

He could start it, let it run for a couple of minutes to melt the ice, and then shut it off and try turning the waterpump by hand to see if its free. If it is, throw the belt back on and its good to go.
 

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So I moved to RI from FL, and my man informed me a few weeks after we moved that all of our cars had distilled water in them and that we need to get coolant in them- after we already started getting in the 30s. He is deployed to Bahrain now, since October.

He told me it's not a huge deal and it's unlikely to crack the engine and he's never heard of it happening, just to make sure there is some coolant with the water, and told me to drain some water and add some coolant to two of the stangs. The other one he had me get a full coolant flush. I think I know which his favorite is....
 

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am i retarded? or is this not the point of a freeze plug? So your block or head doesn't crack? I was always under the assumption that an engine with freeze plugs in it would never crack under freezing conditions. And so far as running it to thaw it, i say why not? If the water is frozen, and the vehicle heats up to anything above 32 degrees, it will thaw it correct? so by the time anything gets even close to operating temp (160-ish) eveything will be thawed. I mean i have never went out to a car that was at temp or cooling off and touched one part of the motor and it been cooler than the rest. Its a huge chunk of metal, it transferrs heat, mostly evenly. Enough to bring water above freezing anyways. I think you guys are over thinking it to much. I say run it until the needle gets to operating temp, then shut it off, and make sure the pump is spinning, and the res. is thawed. I mean the only water that would come up to temp slower is that in the radiator, but the huge chunk of iron at 160 degrees a few inches away from it will probably thaw that out enough for it to flow as well.
 

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I wanna SPRAY!
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am i retarded? or is this not the point of a freeze plug? So your block or head doesn't crack? I was always under the assumption that an engine with freeze plugs in it would never crack under freezing conditions. And so far as running it to thaw it, i say why not? If the water is frozen, and the vehicle heats up to anything above 32 degrees, it will thaw it correct? so by the time anything gets even close to operating temp (160-ish) eveything will be thawed. I mean i have never went out to a car that was at temp or cooling off and touched one part of the motor and it been cooler than the rest. Its a huge chunk of metal, it transferrs heat, mostly evenly. Enough to bring water above freezing anyways. I think you guys are over thinking it to much. I say run it until the needle gets to operating temp, then shut it off, and make sure the pump is spinning, and the res. is thawed. I mean the only water that would come up to temp slower is that in the radiator, but the huge chunk of iron at 160 degrees a few inches away from it will probably thaw that out enough for it to flow as well.
Go drain the coolant from your car and refill it with water, then let it sit in temps below freezing. After you receive the results, report back here so we can get our daily laughs.
 

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the mach has a mix, and i am also out of the country at the moment. But does this LOGICALLY not make sense? I mean, they aint called good-for-nothing-plugs. Ive never personally had or heard of anyone having a cracked block or heads from frozen water. I run nothing but tap water in my s-10 and have never thought twice about it.
 

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Ice Cream Truck Driver
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Go drain the coolant from your car and refill it with water, then let it sit in temps below freezing. After you receive the results, report back here so we can get our daily laughs.
the mach has a mix, and i am also out of the country at the moment. But does this LOGICALLY not make sense? I mean, they aint called good-for-nothing-plugs. Ive never personally had or heard of anyone having a cracked block or heads from frozen water. I run nothing but tap water in my s-10 and have never thought twice about it.
:lmao

 

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Administrator
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the mach has a mix, and i am also out of the country at the moment. But does this LOGICALLY not make sense? I mean, they aint called good-for-nothing-plugs. Ive never personally had or heard of anyone having a cracked block or heads from frozen water. I run nothing but tap water in my s-10 and have never thought twice about it.
Wow. Sorry man, that's not the point. That you can just run water in it and let it freeze because the frost plug will save the block. Yes, that's retarded.

Well, what can I say. Yes, I'm in Canada, granted. But I have seen a few cracked blocks over the years from freezing. As Matt said, more often than not, if it freezes hard enough to push the frost plug out, it will crack the block.

Perhaps there is some confusion on what guys perceive a cracked block as. It's not going to be some split or hole on the outside of the block that you can always see, such as from a rod coming out the block. More often than not, the crack occurs inside the block, along one of the water jackets, and allows coolant into either a combustion chamber or the oil pan.

Another thing some guys forget, is that antifreeze also helps to reduce corrosion.

So all things considered. I'm surprised there is any debate about this. I mean this is automotive basics 101.

The average cooling system holds what, 2 gallons if it's bone dry? Seeing as you should run a 50-50 mix of antifreeze-water, that means you need to buy 1 gallon of antifreeze. One gallon. So people can't buy ONE gallon of antifreeze every couple/ few years when they are (should be) flushing their cooling systems? Or if you DO want to run water only in the summer or at the track, when cold weather approaches, ONE gallon of antifreeze. To protect the heart of your ride. About 12-15 bucks.

Yes. That does sound retarded to me.



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On The Pod
 

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Powered by LSx tears
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I think the freeze plug topic has been pretty well covered.....lol

Usually if the plugs pop, it's too late. The water jackets get thin around the cylinders in places, so it doesn't take much to crack it in some spots. Overthinking it? No. It happens all the time.

There was a thread on Yellowbullet a few weeks ago, where a race team was pulling their car from the warm west coast, out to somewhere east. They crossed the Rockies, and it got real cold. Their $100K race engine cracked the block because it froze as they passed through. Whoops



Oh and if you're going to run tap water, at least get some anti corrosive additive and put in it, because you're ruining the engine from the inside out.
 
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