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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm thinking tomorrow I'll try and tackle this job. I did some searching and it seems that the DS will be real easy, like just 4 bolts or something like that...But as for the U-joint, is that difficult or about the same deal? I've got an impact wrench, sockets, a jack, 2 jack stands, and a pair of ramps if really needed, but I'm worried I'll scrape my front end backing up onto them. Anyway, what else would I need and how should I go about doing everything? are there torque specs or anything I should be careful about? thanks! Also have a Lakewood safety loop going in, but I think I would just install that somehwere near the middle, but more towards the front of the DS and just screw it or whatever to the underbody, right?
 

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its easy as pie to do, 12 mm box end wrench for the drive shaft bolts. as for the u joints pull the E clips out with a needle nose plyer. some people use a vice but i do it the easy way with a hammer and a socket. hang the shaft off a table and slam one side of the ujoint threw using a hammer and a socket. once the cap pushes out you can remove the rest of the ujoint and slam the other cap threw. install is just reverse. i can get ujoints done in about 10 min this way. just be carefull when installing your new ones cause the needle bearings are just held in with grease.
 

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As for the DS loop, it has to be nounted about 6 inches from the front U-Joint.

Be careful with the aluminum DS, make sure you don't hit the aluminum as it is soft and you can damage it. Use a long socket when hitting the cup to push it through. ALso make sure your new cups are going in straight and not at an angle. The aluminum being soft can be damaged if you are trying to push the cup in at an angle.

If you don' t have a long work bench you need someone to hold the end of the DS for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm looking at everything now...was I supposed to buy 2 U-joints? Or is it only one side that matters? It looks like theres 2 U-joints on the new DS
 

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there should be a u joint for the yoke(i believe that's what it's called, part that goes into the output shaft on the tranny) and the pinion flange
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HELP! these bolts will not come loose. My buddy accidentally left the wrench on the bolt and I started the car, and when the DS spun, it literally snapped the wrench in half lol. I would think that at least would make it budge! how do I get this off?!
 

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Spray some pb blaster on the bolts and let it soak for 15 minutes or so and try again, use a longer wrench or a cheater pipe or if you have a 3/8 impact, wiggle joint and 12pt 12mm socket it shouldn't be a problem at all, that's what I use for driveshafts at work and it works like a charm everytime
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah maybe I'll try and get my hands on a wiggle joint and it'll work with the impact. It does seem like it would be a real easy install though once I finally get it going. If i'm not mistaken, the front by the tranny just slips off and on, right?
 

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Just be sure to get it socket/wiggle/impact as straight as possible so not as much torque is lost and so the socket isn't as likely to fly off and hit you in the face...that **** hurts, ask me how I know. And yes, the yoke just slides out of the tranny, just be sure to put a catch pan under the output shaft of the tranny so you don't make a mess because some fluid will most likely come out when you slide the driveshaft out of the tranny
 

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As for the DS loop, it has to be nounted about 6 inches from the front U-Joint.
That's correct, it has to be mounted within 6" of the front U-Joint in order to be NHRA compliant.
 

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I am planning on doing my aluminum ds install this weekend and was thinking it should be fairly simple after reading this i'm thinking i may need to readjust my schedule:mad:
 
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