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Discussion Starter #1
Had a great time on track at Sonoma Raceway yesterday with NASA Norcal. Meet a bunch of cool folks, saw a lot of awesome cars, watched a couple of races and learnt a lot from my instructor.

Unfortunately, on the last session the intake manifold broke at the nipple where the heater core hose attaches to and spewed coolant all over. Luckily I was in a good spot on track with an access road for the tow and rescue to come get me off track without much distubance to the rest of the group.

What's upsetting is that the intake manifold is the revised FRPP one with the aluminum crossover. It was on the car for roughly 10k miles only. The car is a 1999 GT that came with the all plastic intake manifold that is known to crack and leak near the thermostat housing.

Question is, should I replace the intake manifold with another FRPP one? Should I go Dorman instead? Should I pay $$$$$ for an aftermarket all aluminum one?

Also, I do not have a tow hook/strap and the tow driver rescued me by strapping to the front sway bar. Any recommendations for this issue as well?


Thanks!

 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Dorman is Def a tick down from the FRPP. That nipple you speak of is the same plastic nipple on both.

Your intake will either need to be replaced or I've seen guys replace it by tapping and inserting a brass barb. That nipple and the heater intake house connecting to that nipple seems to be a weak point. There's a thing inside the inlet hose that connects to that nipple that regulates water pressure so it doesn't blow out the heater core.

Maybe make a valve to bypass the heater core during racing then have it working when DD? Not sure how to advise.

I just know when I had a Dorman (mine came with a cracked plastic intake as well) I promptly returned it and went FRPP. There was a noticeable drop in power and the spark plug holes didn't line up right. Read and search. Everyone had the same issue.
 

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I happen to have one for sale that I took off my 2002. Clean, excellent condition with no cracks and has all the brass inserts in good shape . PM me if you're interested. I can send pics. Looking for $120 shipped
 

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This is what I did this weekend for my tow strap. I used the Racequip strap with soft loop. $20 and a bolt from my bin. I've got it as long as it goes and can pull it at anything less than 90 degrees and not damage anything. Probably not the absolute best way to mount it but I didn't have to cut my bumper cover. The hole was already in the metal bumper bar. I did have to dremel the plastic headlight panel.





 

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If and when mine breaks I'm going to an Eddy. My OEM manifold came off an 02 and has last d a looong time. I hope it staYs that way.
 

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Tuning Junkie
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has anyone ever tested or viewed test results from a dyno - Dorman vs. FRPP intake power difference ?? I have been using a Dorman for a year and a half. Although I don't have any problems with the Dorman I would change it if its costing me power. Would love to find out how much more RWHP the FRPP is over the Dorman ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I happen to have one for sale that I took off my 2002. Clean, excellent condition with no cracks and has all the brass inserts in good shape . PM me if you're interested. I can send pics. Looking for $120 shipped
Thanks for the offer, but I’m good. Decided to go with a brand new one from LMR. It has a build date of January 2017. This one that broke on me was a low mileage, clean one out of a 2002 that I bought from a member of this forums back in 2014. I’m sure yours is fine, but I’m playing it safe since I’ll be running the car hard.

This is what I did this weekend for my tow strap. I used the Racequip strap with soft loop. $20 and a bolt from my bin. I've got it as long as it goes and can pull it at anything less than 90 degrees and not damage anything. Probably not the absolute best way to mount it but I didn't have to cut my bumper cover. The hole was already in the metal bumper bar. I did have to dremel the plastic headlight panel.
I’ll probably go with that same strap from Racequip. I like the price and that it has an adjustable length. The only thing I’m worried about is using just one bolt to hold it in place. Have you tried towing it yet? I’m thinking about fabricating a bracket that mounts to the bumper that spreads out the load, so as not to rip that one bolt out of it’s mount.

If and when mine breaks I'm going to an Eddy. My OEM manifold came off an 02 and has last d a looong time. I hope it staYs that way.
I was looking at an Eddy too, but you’ll also need a new fuel rail and a custom bracket to use a stock-style mount throttle body/plenum. In other words, $$$$$ ($475 for the Eddy manifold + fuel rail and $80 for the custom plenum bracket).

has anyone ever tested or viewed test results from a dyno - Dorman vs. FRPP intake power difference ?? I have been using a Dorman for a year and a half. Although I don't have any problems with the Dorman I would change it if its costing me power. Would love to find out how much more RWHP the FRPP is over the Dorman ?
I found a thread on another Mustang forum (searched on Google) and they found a difference of around 10HP and 15 ft lbs of torque between the two. Most of the comments were about dyno results not being an accurate measurement. The reasoning was that dyno results would vary depending on the weather, ambient temperatures, etc. even when using the same intake manifold.


Anyway, I'm just here sitting and looking at my brand new, shiny FRPP intake manifold and waiting for the rain to go away so I can get my car up and running again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IT'S ALIVE!



Notice how shiny that aluminum runner is. :cool:

I also cleaned up the injectors, COPs, throttle body and all the related parts. Then lubed up what was needed, along with applying dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors, etc. The car is running better than ever.

Next up, more track days!


 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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IT'S ALIVE!



Notice how shiny that aluminum runner is.


I also cleaned up the injectors, COPs, throttle body and all the related parts. Then lubed up what was needed, along with applying dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors, etc. The car is running better than ever.

Next up, more track days!


Nice how long did your install take you

Rc5- I can only judge by my ass dyno but it was enough for me to install the Dorman, return it, buy a frpp and do the install again. It was bugging the crap outta me the power loss I had
 

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I’ll probably go with that same strap from Racequip. I like the price and that it has an adjustable length. The only thing I’m worried about is using just one bolt to hold it in place. Have you tried towing it yet? I’m thinking about fabricating a bracket that mounts to the bumper that spreads out the load, so as not to rip that one bolt out of it’s mount.
I have pulled on it to make sure won't damage anything but that's it. I pulled hard enough to roll the car on concrete. I feel confident that I could get pulled by an emergency vehicle at the track if the car was still on all 4 rolling wheels to get to the nearest access road off the track.I'm not 100% confident that If I had a rollover or bad wreck that I could get pulled up at an angle onto the flatbed tow truck. At that point I probably wouldn't care though. Two bolts are obviously going to be better than one. I was more concerned about any bending forces on the metal bracket and secondly not damaging the car if it needed to be used. I used a metric 10.9 bolt, which is basically a grade 8. I don't think it's going to shear from pulling a 3300lb car but I'm no mechanical engineer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have pulled on it to make sure won't damage anything but that's it. I pulled hard enough to roll the car on concrete. I feel confident that I could get pulled by an emergency vehicle at the track if the car was still on all 4 rolling wheels to get to the nearest access road off the track.I'm not 100% confident that If I had a rollover or bad wreck that I could get pulled up at an angle onto the flatbed tow truck. At that point I probably wouldn't care though. Two bolts are obviously going to be better than one. I was more concerned about any bending forces on the metal bracket and secondly not damaging the car if it needed to be used. I used a metric 10.9 bolt, which is basically a grade 8. I don't think it's going to shear from pulling a 3300lb car but I'm no mechanical engineer.
Thanks for the reply. One more question if you have a moment?

I found these pictures of an S2000 with the same tow strap:





Do you think this "loop around the bumper" method will work on our cars?

I've never had the bumper cover off and I don't know what it looks like back there. Thanks again.
 

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Still slow.
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When mine blows off I'll be tapping with a brass insert or getting an eddy.

On a side note, do you have an oil cooler for the road course? What are you oil temps like? And what brakes and rad are you using?

I'm making the switch from drag racing to road racing this year.
 

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Thanks for the reply. One more question if you have a moment?

I found these pictures of an S2000 with the same tow strap:

Do you think this "loop around the bumper" method will work on our cars?

I've never had the bumper cover off and I don't know what it looks like back there. Thanks again.
I don't feel that it would work well. Our metal bumper is just a straight beam, similar to the s2000 you pictured. the strap would wrap around it fine. The problem is that there is about 6-8 inches of distance between the metal bumper and the plastic bumper cover, dense foam between to absorb impacts. As long as you pulled straight ahead on the strap you'd be fine. As soon as you pull at an angle, its going to hit the hole you'll have to cut in the bumper cover and then stress the bumper cover, possibly breaking the mounting points. So you'll have to cut a hole in the bumper, which is really fine for a track car. But you'll might also damage the bumper if the tow vehicle needs to make a turn.

When mine blows off I'll be tapping with a brass insert or getting an eddy.

On a side note, do you have an oil cooler for the road course? What are you oil temps like? And what brakes and rad are you using?

I'm making the switch from drag racing to road racing this year.
You probably wasn't asking me but I'll chime in. I don't have an oil cooler. I don't even have a proper oil temp gauge. I've got a Mishimoto radiator that keeps everything very well cooled down so I don't worry about much else. I would like to add a remote oil filter kit, and then maybe see if I need a cooler after getting a gauge. For brakes I have the Cobra front 13" and 12" rear vented brakes. I have front and rear air ducts to the center of the rotors. In the past I've used Hawk HT10 pads but this year I'm using DTC-70 pads. Next track day is 4/22 and should find out if they work well for me or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice how long did your install take you

Rc5- I can only judge by my ass dyno but it was enough for me to install the Dorman, return it, buy a frpp and do the install again. It was bugging the crap outta me the power loss I had
The install should only take 2-3 hours tops, IF you replace it proactively. ie. Before the intake manifold cracks and sprays coolant ALL OVER the engine bay. I took my time and cleaned every single thing (bolts, injectors, fuel rail, COPs, COP boots, spark plug holes, the valley of the engine below the manifold, bottom of the hood, etc.) so it took me a day and a half. I also applied dielectric grease on all electrical connectors and oiled all the rusty bolts, zip tied and taped up wires, etc. Engine bay looks brand new and the car is running better than ever.

When mine blows off I'll be tapping with a brass insert or getting an eddy.

On a side note, do you have an oil cooler for the road course? What are you oil temps like? And what brakes and rad are you using?

I'm making the switch from drag racing to road racing this year.
No oil cooler nor oil temperature gauge but fresh Mobil1 Synthetic 5W-30 and Motorcraft filter before every event. I’m still on HPDE1, so we’re not pushing the car 10/10ths yet. I’ve done two events at Sonoma Raceway and two events at Laguna Seca. Never had any overheating problems nor brake fade. The intake manifold cracking was the only problem I’ve had (touch wood). I’m using Raybestos Reman Cobra/Mach 1 style calipers (plain/blank/no logo), Maximum Motorsports SS hoses, Hawk HP+ pads, ATE DOT4 fluid (fresh flush before every event), and 13” Centric blank rotors in the front. Stock brakes in the rear. Stock rad, but planning to upgrade to the Mishimoto rad in the future.

I don't feel that it would work well. Our metal bumper is just a straight beam, similar to the s2000 you pictured. the strap would wrap around it fine. The problem is that there is about 6-8 inches of distance between the metal bumper and the plastic bumper cover, dense foam between to absorb impacts. As long as you pulled straight ahead on the strap you'd be fine. As soon as you pull at an angle, its going to hit the hole you'll have to cut in the bumper cover and then stress the bumper cover, possibly breaking the mounting points. So you'll have to cut a hole in the bumper, which is really fine for a track car. But you'll might also damage the bumper if the tow vehicle needs to make a turn.

You probably wasn't asking me but I'll chime in. I don't have an oil cooler. I don't even have a proper oil temp gauge. I've got a Mishimoto radiator that keeps everything very well cooled down so I don't worry about much else. I would like to add a remote oil filter kit, and then maybe see if I need a cooler after getting a gauge. For brakes I have the Cobra front 13" and 12" rear vented brakes. I have front and rear air ducts to the center of the rotors. In the past I've used Hawk HT10 pads but this year I'm using DTC-70 pads. Next track day is 4/22 and should find out if they work well for me or not.
Understood. Thanks again for the reply. Good to hear that the Mishimoto is working well for you as I’m looking at that as my next upgrade for my car. I’m following your build/progress since most of the guys who track Mustangs have moved away from our platform onto S197s and S550s. I still :heart: my New Edge and am not looking to “upgrade” to car payments. LOL!
 
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