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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I did a search for Fuel pumps and well there was no thread that came up comparing them.

I want to run 125 shot and higher this season and the stock fuel pump needs to be replaced or get a voltage boost. I plan to go from Nitrous to Boost sometime in the future so selecting now will be thinking forward.

The Google Magic Machine gave me some products but which is easier to use and what are the Good, Bad and just plain Ugly about them?

Boosters you need to have what in mind and what activates them and controls them?

Replacing the thing with a GT500 unit costs $700 but there are other options that are less expensive but require more work and are they worth it or a waste?

What did you get and why?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK, nobody is running after market performance pumps want to chime in yet so I'll place a list:

Walbro 400 LPH High Performance Fuel Pump 400 LPH 0-100 psi drop in unit?
CJ price is $244.99

Steeda is selling at $329.95

And Lethal has the price of $450.00.

Same model different price mark up or lack of confidence by or concern by these companies. When I see prices like this I wonder.

2006 FORD MUSTANG BBK High-Volume Performance OEM-Style Electric Fuel Pumps 1866 300 LPH unit. $399.99

Is 300LPH and not enough to support what I am planning on doing?

Anyone have these pumps in their tanks with their Boost/N2O?

Next is the 2006 FORD MUSTANG Ford Racing High-Flow Fuel Pumps M-9407-GT05 Looks busy for a plug in and or what not. $699.99

BBR 2005-2010 Mustang GT Fuel System same thing at $779.95 currently on sale from Regular price: $849.99

For that it would have to be invincible.

There are even more expensive units/combinations that might be required for a 1,000 hp+ machine but......I'm not going there...lol

Then we have systems to boost the voltage to increase the OEM pumps that look even more involved. Kenne Bell has one and there are also other units out there.

I could buy the best but that's not always the best investment for a machine that won't need it. But buying cheap could make you want kick your own ass for doing it.
 

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FBGM
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I would just use a bap. They aren't that hard to install idk how it gauges when it needs to come on but only comes on when there is demand for it to boost the voltage. It's not running all the time. You can find it on Kenne bells website about their Baps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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And are we doing injectors?

Getting the pump hat in and out is going to be the trickiest part of swapping in the DW300. For some reason the access hole and the pump don't line up very well. Never could figure out how you can mess that up. But I was trying to squeeze a dual pump hat in there. Prolly a little easier with a single.
 

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00blkvert
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And are we doing injectors?

Getting the pump hat in and out is going to be the trickiest part of swapping in the DW300. For some reason the access hole and the pump don't line up very well. Never could figure out how you can mess that up. But I was trying to squeeze a dual pump hat in there. Prolly a little easier with a single.
I won't be doing injectors since its a wet setup the fuel solenoid pushes fuel into the i take before it will reach the injectors.
 

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I won't be doing injectors since its a wet setup the fuel solenoid pushes fuel into the i take before it will reach the injectors.
Nice. My next build is going to have a 2 stage port injected wet set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would love 2 stages but the program I run in is single stage only. I am going to push it more this season now that I have a more stable platform for the 60'. When I took the seat out I seen the misalignment and wondered who the hell screwed that up. That was another question that I was going to ask would it be wiser to do the double with my set up or not but that one unit looks like it will support my mods and a 150 wet shot. I'll be getting this on the dyno for the tune as soon as the pump is in and the salt is gone.

With my back the longer I am in that back seat messing with this the more painful it will be. That locking ring will be my nightmare I expect. I might just attack it from the trunk side laying on my stomach if I can.
 

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00blkvert
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I would love 2 stages but the program I run in is single stage only. I am going to push it more this season now that I have a more stable platform for the 60'. When I took the seat out I seen the misalignment and wondered who the hell screwed that up. That was another question that I was going to ask would it be wiser to do the double with my set up or not but that one unit looks like it will support my mods and a 150 wet shot. I'll be getting this on the dyno for the tune as soon as the pump is in and the salt is gone.

With my back the longer I am in that back seat messing with this the more painful it will be. That locking ring will be my nightmare I expect. I might just attack it from the trunk side laying on my stomach if I can.
This might be a good option foe you then.


05-09 Upgraded fuel hat 600hp - S197 Mustang Forum - S197Forum.com
 

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I have found that if you loosen, not remove, the gas tank straps and let it drop down a few inches it makes it a whole lot easier. I mean a whole lot. I have a retaining ring tool I bought for the wife's hyundai and it fits the ford pump ring nicely. It says not to use an impact with it but I did. Pops right off and you can use it to put it back on too. It's something like this.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6599-Universal-Fuel-Sender/dp/B000F5LJ7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1456709101&sr=8-6&keywords=fuel+pump+retaining+ring+tool[/ame]
 
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