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mm's nitrous mod
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what power ratings are the fuel pumps holding with BAP's? i havent heard any #'s for the focus(255lph) or the aviator pumps(277lph). i have seen 675 from twin cobra's with a BAP. the GT is holding the 850+ mark with the BAP. i have a new aviator pump that i havent installed yet, but i dont quiet know if it is going to hold what i am about to put to it. anyone know what these pumps are holding with the BAP?
 

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im not certain on GT's, but i would say around 400-450 for a single focus, and about the same for a aviator, a single GT possibly 500.

a BAP with stock cobra pumps unless its a turbo application isnt going to hold 675RWHP, with a twin screw, or centri, those pumps with a BAP are done around 600. then at 700 lines become a issues, then at 800 fuel rails become an issue.

if you want to do a fuel system right, 03 cobra tank and pump assembly, stage 2 modified FPDM, upgraded top hat, wire upgrade, and twin GT pumps. that will support 700RWHP no problem.

with GT pumps you HAVE to do a modified FPDM, the GT pumps draw so many volts pushing that much fuel, and will burn up yoru stock one.

with a single GT, or focus pump you would be fine with a 03/04 cobra FPDM. i actually happen to have one for sale if you need it.
 

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mm's nitrous mod
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Discussion Starter #3
i have seen cobra pumps on a twin screw at 675rwhp. its obviously maxed out of course, but have seen it. i am not asking opinions on how to do things "right", i know how to build. an aviator will go past the 500 mark, i just dont know how much. havent seen much on the focus, just around the 440 mark or so on most applications. the fpdm as to my knowledge is the same on the aviator, focus, and dual cobra. i know it needs to be modified for the twin GT, but i am not going to need that much fuel. if i remember right the GT pumps are rated 310lph+ each, i am pretty sure one of them should be able to hold what i am about to do if i wanted to go that route. i am starting to lean toward the twin cobra pumps, but might just see how much the aviator will take. if it wont hold mine, i am pretty sure it will hold what doc will be throwing at it soon.
 

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i would lean towards doing the GT it is a little over 310LPH it will flow some fuel for sure.

im not a fan of a BAP at all, ive seen many peoples knobs getting knocked around and causing them the run lean. i used a BAP with the 100% factory pumps and assembly to make 657RWHP but that was with TORCO added to 93octane for about 96-98 octane.

if somebody made 675RWHP on the factory pumps with a BAP theres not doubt it was on race gas because first off no blowers goign to make that on pump.
 

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i am not asking opinions on how to do things "right",
Then you can hit crazy numbers if you use really large injectors that will compensate when the pressure starts dropping.
Also you numbers for the focus/ aviator pumps seem a little high to me. On 2 different occasions they were done before 400hp with ~10psi. I did not install them, so maybe they were not what the customer said. MY customers said "all kinds of people on the internet hit high hp with these" I said the fuel pump is maxed out around 5000rpms and has dangerous low pressure around 5500rpms. MAybe a leak? Anyway they were done and he switched to the termi pumps and tank with no bap and there were no issues. So dont get pissed off if they peg at much lower values than you are stating.

im not a fan of a BAP at all, ive seen many peoples knobs getting knocked around and causing them the run lean.
+1

This graph was posted by Black03cobra on MF. Note that these are DUAL focus pumps.

 

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mm's nitrous mod
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Discussion Starter #6
the 675 was on race fuel, not pump by any means. if i remember right the cobra was maxing the stockers out around 630rwhp. the focus pumps arent the greatest when it comes to high rpms or any pressures higher than 43psi, they are notorious for failing in those high load applications. i have seen the aviator and other brands 275lph pumps hold 500+ on pump gas. they were all centri cars, and i think 518rwhp is the most i have seen one pushed. i will be having a higher power goal than that, and i have a feeling an aviator with a BAP isnt going to cut it for my application. i am also starting to wonder if i will need to go to a larger fuel line for the car, i am going to have to start a search for a fuel line kit just incase i have to get one.
 

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I just leave mine set wide open and the controller is mounted in the trunk so the setting does not get changed.
 

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I just leave mine set wide open and the controller is mounted in the trunk so the setting does not get changed.
you really shouldnt turn it all the way to 50% it will blow fuses left and right, and you wont know it. max you want to go is about 48%, and thats only if you have the wire upgrade too.

i had mine mounted in the trunk, along with several other people, and they still get bumped down.
 

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I don't know about the 40 amp baps,but on the 20 amp version there is no adjustment. they got rid of the "knob"
I just bought a brand new 20 amp and it has the adjustment knob. and if it blows a fuse you will know it because the fuse runs your pump as well . I know several guys that leave them turned wide open with know issues.
 

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you really shouldnt turn it all the way to 50% it will blow fuses left and right, and you wont know it. max you want to go is about 48%, and thats only if you have the wire upgrade too.

i had mine mounted in the trunk, along with several other people, and they still get bumped down.
I never put anything in my trunk so nothing is going to bump it
 

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I just bought a brand new 20 amp and it has the adjustment knob. and if it blows a fuse you will know it because the fuse runs your pump as well . I know several guys that leave them turned wide open with know issues.
mine is less than a year old,and I asked KB why no adj. knob and they told me they no longer make that style:dunno
 

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I never put anything in my trunk so nothing is going to bump it
well for a week i never went in my trunk, and nothing was in there, beginning of the week its at 48%, end of the week its at 10...
 

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I just bought a brand new 20 amp and it has the adjustment knob. and if it blows a fuse you will know it because the fuse runs your pump as well . I know several guys that leave them turned wide open with know issues.
I ran mine wide open for a long while. I also run it so its on all the time and after the pdm. The fpdm can lower the voltage to the bap or raise it as it see's fit.

Last time at my tuners we did a road test and data logged the FP duty cycle and it was at 85% but I still have 42lb injectors. If I went to 60's it would drop the duty cycle some more. I have also removed the PPRV.

well for a week i never went in my trunk, and nothing was in there, beginning of the week its at 48%, end of the week its at 10...
Gremlins!
 

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I did not use the vacuum switch neither mine is working all the time. on my 01 it is wired right through the fuel pump reset switch in the trunk. so far all is good I will keep check to make sure the knob does not move.
 

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mine is less than a year old,and I asked KB why no adj. knob and they told me they no longer make that style:dunno
thats weird ????????
 

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Its best to not mess with it after its tuned. Running pre FPDM with no hobbs switch (on all the time) is ideal too because then the fuel pump volts can be dialed in in the tune better. With the bap post fpdm the computer does not know what volts the pumps are actually seeing. It does not cause issues for everyone, but it does cause the hesitation after shifts on some cars.
 

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Its best to not mess with it after its tuned. Running pre FPDM with no hobbs switch (on all the time) is ideal too because then the fuel pump volts can be dialed in in the tune better. With the bap post fpdm the computer does not know what volts the pumps are actually seeing. It does not cause issues for everyone, but it does cause the hesitation after shifts on some cars.
so the way I have it installed through the fuel pump reset switch in the trunk is fine ??? thats how it said to install. any suggestions if this is not right
 

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Its best to not mess with it after its tuned. Running pre FPDM with no hobbs switch (on all the time) is ideal too because then the fuel pump volts can be dialed in in the tune better. With the bap post fpdm the computer does not know what volts the pumps are actually seeing. It does not cause issues for everyone, but it does cause the hesitation after shifts on some cars.
Oops I meant before lol
 
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