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Discussion Starter #1
What type of gauge is better, Mechanical or Electric. Which is best for each gauge. Sorry about all the questions just trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks.

Boost/Vacuum

Fuel Pressure

WideBand A/F
 

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FYI

I plan on getting 2 PLX gauges and a Killer Chiller water temp. gauge for the middle where I was drinking and thought it would be a good idea to drill a hole between the AC vents.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info. Your always helping us
 

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No problem brother, the least I can do. I rarely ask for help unless I broke it 2 or 3 times and still can't get it but I read alot at work so I pick up a little bit of information from everywhere
 

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The wideband hands down. It will read an actual AF Ratio from 10.0 to 18.0. The other gauge is useless since it reads a narrow 14.46 to 14.94 and usually reads off the stock o2 sensors and the wideband uses a new 5 wire Bosch dedicated o2 sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Cool thanks.

I'm giving you some rep
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is the Fuel Pressure Gauge necessary since you'll have the WideBand tell you if something is wrong
 

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Unless you just like the look of guages, you do not need them with a whipple. I'm running the whipple on my 2006 with a 12 pound pulley, and a custom tune putting out over 600 hp with 500 rwhp, on 91 pump gas, and still a stock motor and have never had a problem.
 

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Unless you just like the look of guages, you do not need them with a whipple. I'm running the whipple on my 2006 with a 12 pound pulley, and a custom tune putting out over 600 hp with 500 rwhp, on 91 pump gas, and still a stock motor and have never had a problem.
I disagree. Having a wideband is like cheap motor insurance. I have cheap prices on all the plx modules. The DM-100 and DM-200s are great because you can monitor up to 4 parameters with one gauge to keep the dash clean. I run some serious overkill, but i'm a data junkie. My setup includes 2 DM-100s, a DM-200 OBDII in my RV mirror, with dual widebands, dual EGT, boost, IC fluid temp, IAT (upstream, downstream is the stock sensor and viewed on my obd data), and oil pressure will be added real soon when i have some time. I also have a mechanical FP gauge with an isolator. The cool thing about the DM-100s is you can set 4 warnings based on any of your parameters. I use a couple different ones including "if boost >2psi, AF must be below 12:1" See here for PLX products.
 

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I run a mechanical vaccuum/boost gauge and an electric fuel pressure gauge on my whipple supercharger.

boost/vaccuum to tell you that the supercharger is working and there is no belt slip

fuel pressure to tell you that the fuel pump is working properly and giving you the good flow of fuel.

those are the 2 gauges you really need! A/F, its not needed since the whipple tune is right on the money with A/F when they calibrate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so do you need the wideband if your getting a dyno tune
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So its just best to get all 3 for cheap insurance then huh
 

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its good to know what your motors doing either way. yea i know of a group purchase price on the PLX wideband...
 

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pretty much. thinks can happen .. like I dunno.. a vacuum leak
and the wide band will catch it
True story...that's how I found a fuel rail sucking air...tune was lean at about 3/4 throttle, mid load...it shoulda been swinging rich by then, so i started digging and fixed it. Wideband can tell you a lot of stuff about your car, not just the tune, no matter how good the tune is. It's worth the bucks to get one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks guys for all the help. Another question if you guys aren't tired of them. Will I need a new MAF like the SCT BA-2600 or will stock work
 

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the HO kit comes w/ a 95mm maf sensor.
and about the WB a/f, my experience is dont get innovate bc mine has crapped out on me twice already and i'm getting a autometer soon.
you're gonna love the whipple!
 
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