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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. When I first got my car, I was very into detailing but I think I gave up at some point because I could never completely get rid of the swirls Lol!

Okay some background info: I am not new to the detailing world. I know the proper ways and steps when detailing....which products to use (even tho there are so many out there and it all depends on the condition of the paint)..etc.

I used to take Danny's advice from this section of the forum but I am not sure if he's still around.


I use either meguiars car soap or pretty much any generic soap they have it at autozone. I just feel like it's just soap and they are all pretty much the same.

I used to use the two bucket method but recently I got lazy so I just started hosing down the mitt before re-applying.

I usually dry the car in the shade with a blower. If it's just a wash, I'd get a quick detailer and work around the car with a Microfiber towels. I get those generic ones from autozone so what I try to do is use the softer side and make sure I don't press hard with the edges.



If I am detailing, I would usually start with the claybar unless I had done it recently. Depending on the condition and what I am trying to accomplish, I would either do Polish/Wax(or sealant) or compound/polish/wax(or sealant).


Now I have never been truly successful at compound/polishing part of the detail. These are the stuff I have used in the past:

Meguiars level 8/5/3/1 (I forget their specific names so I am just stating the levels...I think level 8 is M205 and level 1 is M105...?)

I have Zymol wax/Menzerna (polish and seal)/powerlock(?) sealant



OKAY so this is where my problem is:

I have the hardest time trying to figure out how many passes I should do. I don't press extremely hard with the orbital (Griots)....depending on what I am doing. Like if I am using compound, I will keep a firm pressure, but not too much. But if I am finish polishing then I would keep a light pressure.

I ran out of the pads I got from Detailers Domain so I started using generic ones from Autozone. The bad thing is they don't have diferent grade level...so I don't know how badly it'll effect the outcome.

So yeah..I remember a few months ago I just got pissed because I felt like I was actually making more scratches/swirls.....so I stopped detailing and once in a while I would use those Black Box or some kind of fillers (I have a black car) and call it a day.


What do you guys think? Do you think I can make it work with what I have? I am gonna need to get some pads tho. Will it work if I just get some at Autozone? Am I missing anything here? What am I doing wrong?

I will definitely post pics of my current paint condition. It looks nice under shade but I know under direct sunlight or any light I can see the imperfections.


I have a friend that is really good with these stuff. He paints things and he details it so it's mirrorlike. This is his car:



He does things very differently than how i was taught (Internet haha). He uses bonnets instead of foam pads. One of his techniques is he angles the orbital in such a way, only the tip of it is in contact with the paint....and it's like you are actually "cutting" the paint when you are using compound. It seems like it works when he does it but when I got home and did it.....:( no success.

Everytime I see those detailing vids or some of the threads on this forum, you guys make it look so easy. Please help!
 

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Your biggest problem is you're shopping at autozone, those products are sub par and you're paying more for less, in terms of quantity and performance.
Get a quality soap such as chemical guys wash and gloss
Keep polishing simple with a 5.5" backing plate cyan pads tangerine pads atleast 3 of each
Cyan is cutting = m105 tangerine is polishing = m205
Order some quality microfibers, mothers has free holiday shipping if you go to their site order 12-24 of theirs. Awesome price at 2 bucks a microfiber
Don't get lazy, the two bucket method is critical to maintaining your ride
Even if you don't achieve full correction that's okay until you get it done 100% in the mean time pick up black light, it will hide the few imperfections you may have missed, also makes the paint deeper / more wet
 

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Bonnets? I have never seen a bonnet pad that is made for correction they are all used for wax application and removal. and when you say orbital what are you talking about..the big 10" ones you get at walmart and such hell even if its a DA just putting the tip down is pretty useless and he seems like he is trying to make a DA look like he is using a rotary buffer. Going by those few things I am not sure i would 100% trust your friend. He can glaze the crap out of the car and it will look great as its hiding alot of the imperfections making it seem like he is fixing the paint.
you need to figure out what compounds and polish they are. 105 is a PITA in my opinion if you are not familier with it as it will dust like a snow storm on you and it has alot of cut that will leave behind marring that looks like your messing that paint up but it needs followed up with a polish to remove those and a polishing pad.
Megs gold class shampoo you can get anywhere is just fine of a soap if you dont feel like ordering more. Mothers is as well. if you wanted to simplyfy things you can get at Autozone and be just fine get some Megs ultimate compound and megs Ultimate polish that can be your 2 step if you want that much correction done its really cheap and can get it anywhere and good stuff.
I would say order up some Buff n Shine pads from Autoality yellow for the compound and green for the polish. I have been using Hydrotechs for a long time and they are real nice pads but I recently switched to the Buff n Shine and they seem to hold up better during buffing, clean much easier and finish down slightly better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I agree with you guys. :( sorry for the laziness.

It's just that I didn't feel like whatever I was doing wasn't working (even tho it was "closer" to the right path...just needed more experience) and I started asking for advice to the people I thought was doing it right. Idk I feel like everyone has their own way.

When I say orbital, I mean Griots Garage 6 random orbital. I got it when Detailers Domain was doing preoder special and got a good price on it.

I'm gonna have some pictures uploadd soon hopefully....the biggest problem right now is that I can't find the time to detail....I like doing the whole car at once even tho it's really tiring ...but it literally takes a whole day...:/


Yeah the friend I am talking about...his car is really shiny. I mean he paints his own bumpers and stuff and it looks really good. I know sometimes the kind of lighting can mess with how it really looks but his looked pretty good. He doesn't even use microfiber...he just uses like old t shirts (clean of course) and just cotton material. Even the bonnets he uses are cotton terry, not mf. :/
 

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Yeah the friend I am talking about...his car is really shiny. I mean he paints his own bumpers and stuff and it looks really good. I know sometimes the kind of lighting can mess with how it really looks but his looked pretty good. He doesn't even use microfiber...he just uses like old t shirts (clean of course) and just cotton material. Even the bonnets he uses are cotton terry, not mf. :/
Yea sorry to say your friend knows absolutely NOTHING. I wouldnt follow one step or bit of advice he gives you. Sorry to say he sounds like the typical body shop hack who thinks since they work in a body shop or paint anything they know how to detail and have NO IDEA wtf they are doing and do more damage then good. If you only see pics hell thats easy to make it look good and hide swirls. If it looks decent in person he is using a glaze of some sort to hide all the **** ups he is putting into the paint. a Tshirt really :facepalm:
 

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Okay so I am about to order the MF/pads.....now I am trying to order them from the same place instead of doing it separately.

If I order from Detailers Domain, are these okay?

http://www.detailersdomain.com/5-Pack-Uber-Foam-Pad-55-inch_p_297.html

http://www.detailersdomain.com/10-Pack--Uber-All-Purpose-Microfiber-Towels_p_836.html



If I order from Autoality, I would get the pads as mentioned and this:

Ultra Soft Microfiber Towel 16" x 16", 10-pk. - Microfiber Products



I couldn't really find pads on Mothers so.....hmm...



Does it really matter which soap I use? I mean most soaps are 7-10 bucks anyway so I just try different things. I will order if I have to. Not gonna get lazy this time :D

More questions:

-Does it also matter which claybar I use? I just buy the Mothers kit or something from wal mart/auto zone
-do you guys put wax/sealant by hand or buffer?
-I currently use Uber Genuine Wool Wash Mitt (V2) but I ve been using it for a while and I think it need a new one....which one should I get? Not really looking to spend whole lotta dough esp with everything I'm gonna need to get.
 

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Yea sorry to say your friend knows absolutely NOTHING. I wouldnt follow one step or bit of advice he gives you. Sorry to say he sounds like the typical body shop hack who thinks since they work in a body shop or paint anything they know how to detail and have NO IDEA wtf they are doing and do more damage then good. If you only see pics hell thats easy to make it look good and hide swirls. If it looks decent in person he is using a glaze of some sort to hide all the **** ups he is putting into the paint. a Tshirt really :facepalm:
AGREED. Some people are so stupid.

Okay so I am about to order the MF/pads.....now I am trying to order them from the same place instead of doing it separately.

If I order from Detailers Domain, are these okay?

http://www.detailersdomain.com/5-Pack-Uber-Foam-Pad-55-inch_p_297.html

http://www.detailersdomain.com/10-Pack--Uber-All-Purpose-Microfiber-Towels_p_836.html



If I order from Autoality, I would get the pads as mentioned and this:

Ultra Soft Microfiber Towel 16" x 16", 10-pk. - Microfiber Products



I couldn't really find pads on Mothers so.....hmm...



Does it really matter which soap I use? I mean most soaps are 7-10 bucks anyway so I just try different things. I will order if I have to. Not gonna get lazy this time :D

More questions:

-Does it also matter which claybar I use? I just buy the Mothers kit or something from wal mart/auto zone
-do you guys put wax/sealant by hand or buffer?
-I currently use Uber Genuine Wool Wash Mitt (V2) but I ve been using it for a while and I think it need a new one....which one should I get? Not really looking to spend whole lotta dough esp with everything I'm gonna need to get.
Order Buff n' Shine pads from Autoality, they are cheap, they work great and last a long time. They are the same pads as "uber" just without the uber name. And also remember that the grade or color of pad is just as important as the grade of polish and has a huge impact on results.

Do date, i believe most clays are the same, they come in different grades of hardness which is graded for levels of contamination, if your car has been clayed in the last 6 months to a year, then a normal OTC clay will work fine.

I apply waxes by hand and sealants using my Griots DA. Sealants are a liquid, so its easier to put down a thinner coat and use less product in a fifth of the time and its WAY easier to buff off. Waxes....we love our waxes here, its a zen experience, gotta melt it into the paint, you can use a machine...but why would you? haha

Soap does matter, mostly because online you can get a better soap that will actually be cheaper because it has a WAY better dilution ratio than OTC soaps and are made to be friendly to LSPs.

And for God sakes get back to the two bucket wash and make sure you are using grit gaurds, probably one of the most essential ways to prevent swirls. lol

As far as success compounding and polishing, its something you practice and get better at. Read and watch alot of well rated videos and then practice. If you plan on ordering polishes/compounds the best thing to start out with is M105/205 just like sonic said, id use 105 with an orange pad and 205 with a green pad. You can just do a 2 step paint correction your first time and on yellow youll be pretty pleased with the results. Later you can move on to a final polish once youve gotten over this lazy bug youve caught lol. As far as knowing how many passes to do, usually youll do at least four but it really depends on the paint, temperature, polish, pad. Usually a polish begins to dissappear as it reaches the "end" of its working process. Compounds like 105 have a pretty short work time and the finer the polish gets, usually the longer the work time.

If youd like to try another kind of polish/compound that is MUCH easier to work with and has a really good working time you can check out Chemical guys optical polishes, its really gonna depend on your paint type, if you have really bad swirls and defects, then 105 is the way to go. Here is my review on the CG polishes if you are interested.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...emical-guys-hybrid-optical-polish-review.html

Using the right products and developing the right technique are the main things to overcome. Be prepared to set aside a couple hundred bucks for this. If you are really wanting to correct soon and you already have a Griots DA, then polishes, pads, soap, buckets with Grit gaurds are the immediate things youll need. Id go ahead and get a new mitt too- But not at autozone lol.

Id personally go with Autoality.com for your order, they have great deals on MFs, the best price on BuffnShine pads, they have Megs/Menzerna polishes, and they carry Chemical Guys products, which is who i prefer for soaps and alot of other products. Plus over 75 bucks means no shipping costs.

Welcome back to the obsession sir!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am officially a member of the Detailers club :DDD

So before I order, please let me know if these are correct:

5.5" x 1" Blue Light Polishing Pad, 3-pk. by Buff and Shine

5.5" x 1" Green Polishing Pad, 3pk. by Buff and Shine

So just get Green and Blue? I remember when I first got my orbital, it came with different color pads and each of them had their specific purpose.....so I was wondering if I really had to use one specific color pad for one type of poilshing/cutting....

For example, let's say I use Green pads for Heavy cutting. If I decide I don't need that much cutting, can I use Medium cutting on another Green pad?



Here are some other products I have to get so please let me know if these are alright:

Meguiar's Microfiber Wash Mitt, 3-pk.

Chemical Guys Citrus Wash + Gloss, 16 oz.

Grit Guard Insert - Red



There were so many different kinds of soap so I just found the one recommended above post.

I couldn't find any microfiber towels other than the big ones for drying....do they not have them?
 

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I'd personally recommend hydro techs 5.5" cyan and tangerine, add crimsons if you'd like to apply wax/sealant via machine if my paint was black I'd have some blue BnS pads on hand as well
 

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I find that Buff n Shine pads seem to hold up a little better then the HT. HT are good pads but they are not very durable
 

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No, not yet at least
Just order 12 or 24 from mothers with their free shipping
I ordered the 12 pack of MF's from mothers for 25 with free shipping and I can say i'm happy with them. Nice towels. Not as soft as some CG towels I have BUT these are 2 dollars a towel not 7. . . I bought 6 gold towels from CG with silk edges that are great as well.
 

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I had one of those Mothers towels before..they come in the Clay kit. They are not bad feeling but I am not a fan of the edges. They are to rough for my taste using on paint. I like only towels that are rolled edges, silk banded for paint towels
 

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I always work my towels folded the proper way - double fold or whatever I forget what people call it, so I don't have an issue with the non silk edges, I've also never induced marring with a microfiber towel.
 

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I ordered the 12 pack of MF's from mothers for 25 with free shipping and I can say i'm happy with them. Nice towels. Not as soft as some CG towels I have BUT these are 2 dollars a towel not 7. . . I bought 6 gold towels from CG with silk edges that are great as well.
I find some of mf's to be.. too soft. rendering them useless for some jobs
the mothers towels have always been the perfect size and balance for me as well as the short+long naps, love them.
 

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I always work my towels folded the proper way - double fold or whatever I forget what people call it, so I don't have an issue with the non silk edges, I've also never induced marring with a microfiber towel.
hmm I would like to see this "PROPER" folding of yours that NO edge is showing anywhere. No matter how you fold a towel the edge will be on one side. And proper folding is folding it into 4's
 
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