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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Ok I will probably be replacing my clutch soon (as far as i know its factory and i have almost 89k miles), and I want to upgrade. I don't really know anything about clutches. My car is a daily driver, but it does see the track. Can you guys help me find the best one for me?
 

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I would have to say my top three are Exedy Stage 2, Centerforce Dual, and the King Cobra clutches.

I am not a drag guy tho so I don't to lead you the wrong way.
 

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I am looking for a suitable replacement as well. I have heard amazing stuff about center force dual friction set ups. As well as fidanza. All I can say for sure is make sure you use a ford TOB.
 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Discussion Starter #6
Hm ok, centreforce seems to be the clutch of choice on this forum. What all should i replace while I have the tranny out? I've never done work this major on a car before so any tips are appreciated.
 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Discussion Starter #7
Also, I'm looking it up on summit racing. Do I need the 10 spline or 26 splie input? And the 1.125" or 1.062" shaft?
 

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Should be a 10 spline. 10.5" set up.
 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Ok, I think I've got the right one. I'm looking it up on other sites as well and one says 450+hp next to it. Are they only recommended for cars with 450+hp? Because mine is at like 225 lol... will i be fine with it?
 

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Hm ok, centreforce seems to be the clutch of choice on this forum. What all should i replace while I have the tranny out? I've never done work this major on a car before so any tips are appreciated.
While you're in there, make sure you replace the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing for sure. I'd also highly recommend you replace the shift fork and the ball stud to which it attaches since those two parts are inexpensive, and it's cheap insurance to do them while you have it apart. Also give your clutch cable a good inspection. After that many miles, it may be getting gummed up and sticky. You might want to consider getting a new OEM cable plus a quadrant and firewall adjuster.
 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Discussion Starter #11
While you're in there, make sure you replace the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing for sure. I'd also highly recommend you replace the shift fork and the ball stud to which it attaches since those two parts are inexpensive, and it's cheap insurance to do them while you have it apart. Also give your clutch cable a good inspection. After that many miles, it may be getting gummed up and sticky. You might want to consider getting a new OEM cable plus a quadrant and firewall adjuster.
I'm planning on the fire wall adjuster and quadrant. I'm looking at the center force on summit and it doesnt come with a throw-out bearing or pilot bearing. Do you havfe any recommendations for those? Also do you have recommendations for the shift fork and ball stud? Links would be appreciated :D
 

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Im very biased towards the Centerforce DF clutch. I have no complaints. Pedal effort is alittle tougher the stock. I can compare because my dad has a stock in his Mach, and I remember the Mach clutch was alittle harder then the stock GT, then the CF is barley harder then the Mach.

Im using it with a FRPP TOB, and Pilot bearing with aftermarket firewall adjuster, double hook quadrant, and OEM clutch cable.
 
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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Discussion Starter #13
Im very biased towards the Centerforce DF clutch. I have no complaints. Pedal effort is alittle tougher the stock. I can compare because my dad has a stock in his Mach, and I remember the Mach clutch was alittle harder then the stock GT, then the CF is barley harder then the Mach.

Im using it with a FRPP TOB, and Pilot bearing with aftermarket firewall adjuster, double hook quadrant, and OEM clutch cable.
What about the clutch fork and ball stud?
 

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What about it? Its all stock.....I wouldnt go changing that ****. Unless something is noticably wrong with it. I didnt read the whole thread, but that would be pointless to change if nothing was wrong with it.
 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Someone suggested that i replace them while i'm in there. I honestly have no idea what either of them are, do, or look like. Sorry for the stupid questions :sorry
 

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While you're in there, make sure you replace the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing for sure. I'd also highly recommend you replace the shift fork and the ball stud to which it attaches since those two parts are inexpensive, and it's cheap insurance to do them while you have it apart. Also give your clutch cable a good inspection. After that many miles, it may be getting gummed up and sticky. You might want to consider getting a new OEM cable plus a quadrant and firewall adjuster.
I see.

**** that man. I just dont see the point. I wouldnt bother. Thats one of those things where people will tell you how to spend your money, because if you dont do it then its wrong. Basically.
 

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I Have A FLATULENT Butthole.
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Discussion Starter #17
I see.

**** that man. I just dont see the point. I wouldnt bother. Thats one of those things where people will tell you how to spend your money, because if you dont do it then its wrong. Basically.
Ok, so unless something is visibly wrong with the clutch fork, then dont mess with it? Is it something that wears out overtime? Or i would have to replace sometime down the road?

Also, should i replace my flywheel? Or just get it resurfaced?
 

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Get the clutch, pilot bearing, TOB, and fork. Because if one of those goes I believe you have to remove the tranny again. As for the other stuff...... It would be easier to replace
 

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Someone suggested that i replace them while i'm in there. I honestly have no idea what either of them are, do, or look like. Sorry for the stupid questions :sorry
Its not dumb man, dont worry. Once you pull the tranny down itll make a lot more sence to you.

The clutch fork has the TOB on there. Which rides on the input shaft of the tranny. The TOB pushes on the fingers of the pressure plate which engages and disengages the clutch.

Also the clutch cable goes into the clutch fork, youll see. Its very basic.



Thats the inside of the bell housing, the piece up front is the inputshaft with the splines on it. The circular piece around it is the TOB, then the metal peice at a 10 oclock angle is the clutch fork. Heres another pic



Then you can see the ball stud at the top of the clutch fork in that picture. I remember the bolt backed out on that, and I wasnt dropping the tranny for 1 bolt, so I had to cut a 7/8 wrench, and reach up at the top of the bellhousing, and tighten it about 1/4 turn every time. Definatley the hardest bolt/nut Ive ever had to get too. Just had to guess where it was, took like 3 hours.
 
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