Modded Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i got to looking at my suspension and decided i want to replace my rear suspension, which as i come to realize is only lower. everything else that i can tell is stock, which is not what i was told when i bought the car, but oh well. what is a good rear suspension setup for a car the see's the strip, but not all that often?? my front suspension consist of coil over's with qa1 springs, mm caster/camber plates, qa1 tubular a arms/and k member. i was thinking of doin rear coil over but how with that effect weight transfer? and whats a good upper/lower control arm setup for the rear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
ok so i got to looking at my suspension and decided i want to replace my rear suspension, which as i come to realize is only lower. everything else that i can tell is stock, which is not what i was told when i bought the car, but oh well. what is a good rear suspension setup for a car the see's the strip, but not all that often?? my front suspension consist of coil over's with qa1 springs, mm caster/camber plates, qa1 tubular a arms/and k member. i was thinking of doin rear coil over but how with that effect weight transfer? and whats a good upper/lower control arm setup for the rear?
urp is good seems like thats what everone here uses
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,968 Posts
Look at the sticky up top on suspenisoin.

i'f you have money. take a look at the steeda 5 link. it looks good. haven't heard too many reviews about it though. other than its awesome on corners
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
I love the Steeda LCA's and UCA's.....they have the poly bushings and are completely quiet......I cut consistant 1.56-1.63 60's at any track.....I also use rear coil overs...It relocates the spring and transfers weight perfectly.......I run at all the tracks in NC and always hook at all of them....even when the trap prep sucks.......

"ED"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
ok so i got to looking at my suspension and decided i want to replace my rear suspension, which as i come to realize is only lower. everything else that i can tell is stock, which is not what i was told when i bought the car, but oh well. what is a good rear suspension setup for a car the see's the strip, but not all that often?? my front suspension consist of coil over's with qa1 springs, mm caster/camber plates, qa1 tubular a arms/and k member. i was thinking of doin rear coil over but how with that effect weight transfer? and whats a good upper/lower control arm setup for the rear?
read the sticky its a great read and gives you a better idea of whats going on in the rear and what you want to do
 

·
Billy Weston
Joined
·
5,076 Posts
Um what are you trying to get out of the car? Rear coilovers will work just fine in the rear as long as they are setup properly. I am currently running a mixture of Baseline, MM and CHE in the rear of my car.
 

·
US Air Force (retired)
Joined
·
13,541 Posts
a panhard bar and torque arm gets rid of all of the disadvantages of the 4 link system.
 

·
US Air Force (retired)
Joined
·
13,541 Posts
Yes it does.... but it has its limits.
Yes. One of which is cost. I'm not a welder but I was surprised at how much is costs to have a Maximum Motorsport panhard bar and torque arm installed.
 

·
Priest of the Car Gods
Joined
·
17,313 Posts
my front suspension consist of coil over's with qa1 springs, mm caster/camber plates, qa1 tubular a arms/and k member.
Wow.. that's a LOT of coin spent up front to not even touch the rear.

You have 2 basic choices, just depending on how much money you want to spend. One is to improve the 4-link, the other is to replace it with something better.

When you say it'll see the strip, but not that often, I'm assuming that means you don't want a 100% 1/4-mile oriented setup. Do you want a more street oriented or more handling oriented setup?

Before I begin, my default suggestion is for Maximum Motorsports' parts.

My basic suggestion is first to get SFCs if you don't already. Then, get a good set of lower control arms. Get a set with at least one spherical joint (doesn't matter which end, I prefer it at the axle side, others prefer it at the chassis side); if you're not worried about NVH, get one with sphericals on both ends. Once you have good LCAs, you can pull the quad shocks off, which will do wonders for your ride quality.

If you're gonna go coilover, you can get a set of LCAs without the spring perches to save a little unsprung weight. Coil-overs aren't going to hurt your weight transfer at all, will reduce unsprung weight, and will improve ride quality; the trade-off is price.

If you're going to retain the 4-link, get a set of adjustable UCAs with a spherical joint. DO NOT GET POLY BUSHINGS IN YOUR UCAS! I think BMR sells the right ones for around $180 (they also sell the wrong ones for $30-$50 cheaper, be strong against such temptation!).

If you decide to replace the 4-link, the most popular swap is to a torque arm and panhard bar. Griggs Racing and Maximum both sell setups, the Griggs unit is stronger, more expensive, and requires you to change your exhaust to either side exit or dumps. You're probably talking at least another $1k to go this route over a modified 4-link, but you get rid of *all* the problems that are inherent to the stock setup.

Steeda sells a 5-link setup. There's a few guys here that swear by it, and it does have certain geometric advantages over a torque arm for cornering guys (mostly in terms of braking stability, from what I understand). I've never heard of anyone using it for drag racing, though, and I don't see any advantage to it over a modified 4-link in terms of straight-line performance.
 

·
Priest of the Car Gods
Joined
·
17,313 Posts
I too want to hear more reivews on the 5 link..
Here's the best review you'll ever read for the 5-link: Steeda 5-link? - Corner-Carvers Forums

*I* wouldn't spend my money on that setup, but I wouldn't stop someone else from buying it, either.

Like I implied above, I think the 5-link would be a giant waste of money if your interest is 1/4 mile. The main advantage to it that I'm aware of over a torque arm is more stability under decel/braking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,968 Posts
Now that i have read throught it. it looks like instead of getting the steeda 5 link which steeda didn't design.. just build up the rear. and you can build up the read doing one part at a time instead of blowing it all at once.
Thanks Dex
 

·
US Air Force (retired)
Joined
·
13,541 Posts
That is what tech support at Maximum Motorsport suggested to me. The order they suggested was lower control arms, panhard bar, then torque arm. You can only run the MM panhard bar with stock upper control arms.

Adding the torque arm is somewhat complicated in that you have change the rear springs to match your front ones. The normal spring set up doesn't work with torque arm. Actually what they suggested was changing all the springs at that time to make sure you have the correct front/rear loads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,598 Posts
Yeah, the torque arm set up creates a LOT less bind on the suspension. So you ahve to get stiffer rear springs than you would have stock.

The 5 link is a good drag set up. It is better than stock, its just not going to be much better than an upgraded 4 link.

I like the torque arm PHB set up alot. The install can cost a bit, but is really not that bad. I installed my PHB my self, The only issue I had was aligning my axle cause I got lazy and didn't want to wait anymore. So I just eyeballed it. Otherwise its not that hard, just got to be willing to drill a couple holes in your frame and shim it correctly. Take your time with it. The welding is all pretty simple stuff, so any shop could do it for you. Its the other parts that take the time, and you can do them your self.
 

·
Abyssinian of AX
Joined
·
7,994 Posts
That is what tech support at Maximum Motorsport suggested to me. The order they suggested was lower control arms, panhard bar, then torque arm. You can only run the MM panhard bar with stock upper control arms..."
To make sure I am understanding here..... MM said you can ONLY run their PHB with both UCA's or if you DON'T want to run the MM torque-arm, you need to run both UCA's? I am guessing you mis-spoke here :D

Jazzer... confused :confused:
 

·
Priest of the Car Gods
Joined
·
17,313 Posts
To make sure I am understanding here..... MM said you can ONLY run their PHB with both UCA's or if you DON'T want to run the MM torque-arm, you need to run both UCA's? I am guessing you mis-spoke here :D

Jazzer... confused :confused:
I don't think the emphasis was on the quantity, I think it was on the fact that if you're running a PHB, you need to have stock UCA(s) due to the slight bit of lateral movement the axle undergoes during suspension travel. If you had UCAs with spherical joints, the PHB would just cause everything to bind like a m******f*******.
 

·
Boost gets you laid
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
i have the MM HD torque arm, panhard bar, and LCA's... its the highest quality stuff i've seen and the car handles completely differently now. it will not oversteer going around corners, even if you gun it. you can get sideways if you want but its much more challenging.. and the control when the back end kicks out is amazing, you can pedal it and adjust the pitch of the rear end and its super easy to drift if you want to. the install is difficult, SUPER difficult if you can't get the car up in the air (the car must be on its springs when installing and measuring). it took me a few days. and you also have to have subframe connectors and welding skills if you want to do it yourself. my next step for suspension is to do coilovers and tubular front suspension in the front with street/strip springs and shocks.
 

·
Boost gets you laid
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
oh and if you do this setup you can throw your upper control arms and quad shocks in the garbage, where they belong.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top