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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to make these look new again. Is there a way to do it without spending 14,000 hrs polishing every crevice by hand? I polished up the fronts once, but they immediately started to turn white and pit within less than a week. How do you stop that from happening? Clear coat?

 

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spray the bitches with engine degreaser foam and drive it so it gets hot
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those have been degreased, lol. Didn't run it after tho. I want to polish them up while they're off the car.
 

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dam mine came out clean as **** with just degreaser, maybe semen coating
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine are older than dirt itself. Original steel valve guide editions right there.. been updated of course, but they're ****ing old. I think they were the first TW's they made... Try out the semen coating tonight.
 

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tf heads without trickflow stamped on the front ftw. We can tell people theyre procomps
 

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Lol tell me about it. I've been dying to pull some **** like that, just never got this thing running well enough to make any money with it. But now I'm gonna make it too pretty to pull any kind of sleeper ****. I suppose I could still find the occasional dumb-ass here and there.
 

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spray paint them red so everyone thinks youre some retard lmaoooaoaos
 

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Yep! Eastwood sells a kit that has tripoli, and white rouge in it, along with specific pads that you can use on a high speed drill, that works magic. I did the same thing to my heads. Standby for link and pics.
 

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Mine were pretty nasty, scratched, dulled and ****ed. Now while it isn't something you can do it minutes, you can make a drastic change in a couple of hours.

I started with 80 grit sandpaper, to get all the scratches out, and worked my way up to 2000 grit, though multiple stepups. Then I used the east wood kit to polish it up. I polish peoples stuff for side money with this stuff, and you can put a mirror on it. These looked terrible before.




This isn't the exact kit I have. The one I have was like $20-$25 and has less pieces. This was just from a quick search on their site.

Eastwood Buffing Kit - Paint Buffing Kits - Buffing and Polishing Kit
 

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Mine were pretty nasty, scratched, dulled and ****ed. Now while it isn't something you can do it minutes, you can make a drastic change in a couple of hours.

I started with 80 grit sandpaper, to get all the scratches out, and worked my way up to 2000 grit, though multiple stepups. Then I used the east wood kit to polish it up. I polish peoples stuff for side money with this stuff, and you can put a mirror on it. These looked terrible before.




This isn't the exact kit I have. The one I have was like $20-$25 and has less pieces. This was just from a quick search on their site.

Eastwood Buffing Kit - Paint Buffing Kits - Buffing and Polishing Kit
Now thats some good looking **** right there............good job
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice! Thanks man. Did you do the rest of the head or just the front flat part? I want to do the whole head (the visible parts) because I don't want all new shiny parts on the engine and then these turds on there.
 

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I did the fronts, backs, and the machined edges on the sides. I didn't venture into the rough casting areas, but it can be done with a lot of time. You really can't see much of those areas anyways.


If you don't want to get all the scratches out of the fronts, you could still shine them up with the eastwood kit. The aluminum is pretty easy to sand the scratches out of though. It probably took me 3-4 hours total to do both heads.
 

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I polished up the fronts once, but they immediately started to turn white and pit within less than a week. How do you stop that from happening? Clear coat?
Aluminum oxide. It happens quick if there is no protective layer (anodized or chemical). Most of the chemical methods of producing a protective layer are not capable of handing the heat and anodizing is expensive. You can clean them and paint, or just live with it. Loosening up the valve covers will provide a constant fresh supply of oil to them, that should keep them from corroding. The good thing is the rust layer created on aluminum is usually very thin and will shield further rust from happening, unlike iron where it just keeps going.

To polish, any aluminum polish should work, mothers, never dull, and loctite has a brush on/rinse off chemical but I've never used it.

Is you car parked on gravel or grass? That and a car cover trashed my engine compartment quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Aluminum oxide. It happens quick if there is no protective layer (anodized or chemical). Most of the chemical methods of producing a protective layer are not capable of handing the heat and anodizing is expensive. You can clean them and paint, or just live with it. Loosening up the valve covers will provide a constant fresh supply of oil to them, that should keep them from corroding. The good thing is the rust layer created on aluminum is usually very thin and will shield further rust from happening, unlike iron where it just keeps going.

To polish, any aluminum polish should work, mothers, never dull, and loctite has a brush on/rinse off chemical but I've never used it.

Is you car parked on gravel or grass? That and a car cover trashed my engine compartment quick.
Funny, but I never really put 2 and 2 together to figure out aluminum oxide is actually just rust, lol. Kinda makes sense now that you put it like that because that is the technical definition of rust.

I'm really just looking to get them back to what a set of heads looks like when they ship them to you, or relatively close. Not really after a mirror finish because I'm not a fan of chrome or the chrome look, but anything is better than what they look like now. I may just give both a shot. That jelly seems easier, but I'm wondering what it will do for all the dirt that's caked in the casting and everywhere else. Worth a shot if it's cheap enough tho. I may try some degreaser and hit them with a stiff bristle brush and see if that gets them a little cleaner and then hit them with some polish. I was honestly almost tempted enough to stick these in my sandblast cabinet, but I got worried about the guides getting eaten up, even with a junk set of valves and springs on it.

No, I've seen what moisture coming up from the bottom can do to a car and it's always parked on pavement. Heads have more time sitting in my garage and closet than they do actually on the car anyway, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I did the fronts, backs, and the machined edges on the sides. I didn't venture into the rough casting areas, but it can be done with a lot of time. You really can't see much of those areas anyways.


If you don't want to get all the scratches out of the fronts, you could still shine them up with the eastwood kit. The aluminum is pretty easy to sand the scratches out of though. It probably took me 3-4 hours total to do both heads.
That's not too bad. I'd be willing to spend about that much on them just to make them look decent. They're little baby 170's that aren't going to be on long, but I still don't want to put dirty **** on new parts. I like that that kit comes with red rouge because I need some of that to polish up my cam anyway. ****in oil galley plug popped out and the top end starved just enough to lightly score the cam up.
 
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