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I had the stock h pipe and slp lm 1s, well you see this set up was loud but just not what i expected. So I order the UPR o/r x pipe...and OMFG my Mustang now sounds like a ****in nascar! It is literally insane!!:eek::eek::eek: It makes everyones head turn. I have gotten plenty of thumbs up and head nods, but i have also gotten those bitches that hate life shake their head at me and hold the arms out...**** them. Well just thought I would share my amazing story of how much mid pipes change sound lol. :D:D:D
 

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Mine will probably be almost equally loud when my exhaust is setup the way I want it. I was going to stick with the stock manifolds or do shorty headers, but I guess a couple more HP from long tubes would be neat.

But anyhow now I have stock manifolds, BBK offroad X pipe, and a Flowmaster 40 series catback. I hate the Flowmasters. I bought the car with them, and they sound nice, but I absolutely hate how the sound like fades out after you get into the upper RPMs yet not at WOT, basically 25% throttle up to 3,000-4,000 RPM.

I'll eventually have long tubes of some sort, have to invest in a shorty O/R X to go along with them, and a Borla stinger catback. Now that will be loud, and echo for a while. Not fade out like the Flowmasters do after they're a couple hundred feet away.
 

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long tubes are a wast of money on stock motor fi cars, they dont add enough power to make them worth it. my last stang had shorty headers and put down lots of power. my cobra still has the stock logs in them and i make almost mid 600's threw them. na/nitrous cars benifit from long tubes
 

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long tubes are a wast of money on stock motor fi cars, they dont add enough power to make them worth it. my last stang had shorty headers and put down lots of power. my cobra still has the stock logs in them and i make almost mid 600's threw them. na/nitrous cars benifit from long tubes
I agree, but 360-370 RWHP with the Vortech will just be a stepping stone for me. I'm eventually going with a built 5.0 stroker short block from MMR. My ultimate goal consists of a minimum of 600 RWHP, so I want it to be as efficient as possible. I don't want to just cram all the boost in there I can, I want to let that boost work for me. Blower cams, ported heads, long tubes, etc. If I were staying under 400 RWHP forever, I'd leave the stock manifolds, heads, and cams right where they are.

Remember I don't have a fancy 4 valve. :lol Gotta do what I can to get some extra flow on both sides.
 

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stock manifolds flow plenty trust me, my last setup was a mmr 900 sb, with ported heads, stock cams, shorty headers and it made mid 538 rwhp at 16 degrees timing and 5500 rpm's. if it would not have run out of fuel car would have made over 600 with 6500 rpms, and 20 degrees timing. cooling mods are your friend when it comes to fi cars. i ran a 4 core ic and lots of meth and my iats were ice cold even in the summer. that is worth more hp than any exhaust setup will ever get you.

 

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What intercooler and how much boost? And yeah, I'd probably do what everyone else has had success with and go with a CX Racing intercooler. Spearcos don't seem to have the greatest quality, in the diesel world I've seen a few of them explode. A giant PWR intercooler is always an option.

I wish the head unit exchange program with Vortech would allow me to trade in a straight discharge unit for a curved V7 YSI. I'd have to have it converted to a curved discharge unit, then trade it in.
 

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you dont want a curved unit, that would make installing a intercooler a pain in the ass. i ran the cx racing 31x12x4 ic, with a vortech v3 si 3.0 pulley manking 18# of boost
 

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I have never seen anyone install an intercooler setup with a straight unit. Have any pictures of your old setup? And those are pretty good numbers for the amount of boost.
 

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You're right, I forgot that the curved discharge of the V7 is completely different from a curved V1. With the V1 it's almost impossible to run a FMIC with a straight discharge unit.

Leaves me confused as to how I'd get a V7 mounted up like this, facing down so that I could run a front mount intercooler.

 

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there are 6 allen heads around the valute that you loosen and then you just re-clock the valute. simple, on your cars you just clock it so its at a 45 degree angle towards the driver side.
 

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I knew the bit about the allen heads and being able to change the angle of the housing. I just thought that was something that had to be done in-house at Vortech. I wonder if I could have them re-angle it for an intercooled setup before it's shipped out to me later on down the road when I go to trade the V1 in for the V7 YSI. At least it's something I don't have to worry about for a year or two. I'm going to have fun with a little over 350 RWHP for a little while.

Maybe go for over 400 RWHP on stock internals with some blower cams and an intercooler setup after I pick up another daily driver. It's a shame we stole this guy's thread. :lol
 

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Your going to have to clock it your self. Vortech wont know what angle it needs to be at. As for the v7 its a nice unit but it shines best at 25# and more boost for that your going to need to run race gas or meth. Also the cast bracket will have to have supports welded into the webbing to keep it from flexing. There is alot that goes into big hp setups
 

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I'm not too worried, I've been learning as I go. I already know I can convert it to a return style fuel setup with MMR's package, and the Siemen Deka 80LBers seem like a nice option since I wouldn't need a low impedance injector driver. But this is all stuff for down the road. I'm going to give it a break for now and pick up probably a truck as a new daily driver.

I think I'm good for the next year since I've already put 4K into the T56 and Vortech. Probably gonna keep it somewhat cheap and just work on the suspension for the rest of this year. LCAs, SFCs, maybe throw a tubular K on up front while I'm at it. Sure is fun planning at 6:04 in the morning though. :lol
 
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