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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

My name is Keith, though everybody just calls me Saint. No, I'm not a 'saint', but it is part of my last name and I never really liked the name Keith. I'm currently without a Mustang, but I am in the process of purchasing one. Unfortunately, I'm also currently fighting the war on terrorism (yay) so the deal may or may not go through. We'll see. Hopefully, my step-father is willing to serve as my proxy in the matter.

I'm in the market for a 94-95 GT Convertible. I used to own a '91 GT, but was forced to sell it due to an increase in family size. Hooray children! Anyways, after 3 years of sighing whenever ANY Mustang drove by, my darling wife has broken down and gave the go ahead at getting a 'new' Mustang.

When I owned the Fox, I tinkered with the engine (mainly replacing things that broke) but never trully got into modifying it as I never really had the money. With the 'new' Mustang, I would actually like to try to build the engine up a bit and hence why I decided to join your forum. There's nothing like asking the experts for help, or to have the experts tell me when I'm just being dumb.

Here's my plan for the GT when I get it, but please keep in mind that I am, at best, a complete novice when it comes engine work and the like:

Engine:
Complete rebuild, but keep the boring stock if able.
New lifters, though I wouldn't really know what brand to get
AFR Aluminum 165mm heads
Roller Rockers
New Camshaft. (Here, I have no idea what I'm doing.)

Intake:
I want to make it a true Ram Air vehicle. I know that this will entail a new hood and a kit that will get the air into the engine, what I'm not sure is if I need a special Intake manifold to accomplish this.

Exhaust:
Long Tube Headers
X-Pipe
Flowmaster Exhaust that is ported out infront of the rear wheels
I'm looking for that nice, deep, muscle car rumble

Suspension:
Most likely, I would want to redo all the suspension, upgrading to tublar parts and coil overs. However, I have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about in this department. I can change a shock if I have to, but that's about all.

Transmission:
Again, no clue. I know less about how to play with a transmission than I do about playing with the suspension. All I know is that, depending on what's already in there, is changing the rear gears to 3.73.

What I'm looking for in this car is one that is fun to drive, but not really a race car. Will I ever take it to the track? Maybe, but it will primarily be a street car and will most likely become a daily driver. My goal would be to have anywhere from 375 - 425 horsepower. I would like for all of that to come from the engine. I'm positive that I will not be able to afford a turbo/supercharger, especially after buying those heads.

If you have any suggestion or see any flaws in my rough idea, please let me know. Alos, if I'm on the right track, please let me know.

Thanks,
Saint
 

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Welcome to the forum Saint. ;)
Your ideas sound good but you can have a good cold air intake without going ram air. Also 375-425 flywheel HP is going to be much easier to obtain if you enlarge the engine displacement by rebuilding the bottom end to a 331 or 347 stroker. If you want to keep the stock 302ci and stay naturally-aspirated, 350-375 flywheel HP is a more realistic goal.
Hopefully you'll find a decent '94-'95 GT that you can buy as a project vehicle. Then start replacing worn/broken parts with upgraded items.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking about boreing out the block and turning it into a stroker, but while I sort of, kind of, maybe understand what that means, I'm still pretty lost on it. I assume that a stroker kit will shorten the stroke of the piston, thus allowing more air/fuel into the cylinder and increasing displacement, which will then increase horsepower. I think. My step-dad tried to explain it to me once, but we were both drunk at the time so none of the information stayed in my head. Does boreing/adding a stroker kit weaken the block? Make it more unreliable? How much would a stroker kit cost? The idea has always intrigued me, but it might be a little out of my inexperienced hands to accomplish.
 

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Stroking the engine involves swapping in a longer throw crankshaft so that the stroke is increased, thereby increasing the displacement. Since the pistons would travel further up and down the cylinders, stroker kits will usually have shorter connecting rods or shorter pistons (sometimes both, sometimes slightly longer rods and even shorter pistons) to prevent the pistons coming out of the block at TDC. With the bigger displacement you'll have more HP potential, and stroking the engine also increases the compression ratio. It's the most effective way to build torque on a naturally-aspirated engine.
Overboring the cylinders won't weaken the block as long as you don't get carried away. The 331ci and 347ci strokers require a cylinder overbore of only +0.030". Stroker kits for the 5.0 are popular and therefore inexpensive. You can get one with a cast crank for little over $1000 so it's great value for money. Kits with a forged crank, rods, and pistons will cost a great deal more but you'll only make that choice if you're going for a very high HP application (500+rwhp) and large amounts of supercharger/turbo boost, in which case you'd also need a stronger aftermarket block.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Damn Bullit, now you really got me thinking about that. Thanks for adding extra $$ to my project list. ;) JK. Anyways, I may have found a nice platform for all my theories and ideas.

1994 Mustang 5.0GT/Cobra Conv. Needs work/Great Project car!!

I'm having my Step-Father take a drive up there and have them check it out for me. Hopefully, the frame will be straight and the body damage isn't too horrible. I'd post pictures, but alas, government computers are a PITA.

I did find a stroker kit from Haney Motorsports.

347 Stroker Kits , Ford 347 Rotating Kit - Haney Motorsport

Is this roughly what I should be looking for?
 

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That does look like a good project car but the asking price is too high. I'd say $2000 would be more reasonable given the amount of work that needs to be done.
Those stroker kits look pretty good.
 

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Hey there Saint, welcome to the forum! First off... that looks like a pretty good car to start with - you didn't mention how you are with body work tho??? Are you up for that??? As Bullitt said, if you could pick that car up for around $2000 that would be a good deal.

Oh, by the way, anything Bullitt says LISTEN to him - cuz he's the man! :usa

About your mods...
A stroker kit is definitely the way to go in my opinion. Its a great way to make power, and the most cost efficient way to make the best out of your other mods (I mean, your heads, intake cam, everything will give relatively "more" hp cuz the bottom end of the motor is better). When modifying, you need to remember, one thing affects everything else. So it's important to have a good combination of things - don't just throw parts at it. There was another thread recently where a guy threw a huge cam in with little, restricting heads, and that is not the way to do things. You want your car to run as well as possible while making the most amount of power - so you want to gather parts that will all work with one another. Do some research and do a lot of reading - search the internet for info on different combinations of parts to find what's best for you. Is this something that you are looking to do soon? Like do you already have a set budget for this car? Or are you going to just slowly gather parts and do it a little bit at a time? Let us know what your budget is...

Good luck man! Let us know what you find out about that car...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
95Stang, thanks for those links. I was wondering who would be a reliable person for a custom cam and now that's one less question to ask.

None of this would be done any time soon, unfortunately. Military pay is steady, but it's not really a lot, if you know what I mean. There's actually no set budget in mind, at least, my mind. My wife may have a different idea. My plan for the car is to get all the parts for the engine together first, no matter how long it takes to save the money for them, and then rebuild the engine over the course of a nice week or two of leave. So, yeah, it's going to take some time, but hey, I'll be deploying again early next year and that's just means more money for the Mustang when I get back.

As for the stroker kit, this car will be my daily driver when all is said and done to it, so would a 331 or 347 be a better choice? I'm not overly concerned about fuel consumption, but it is something I'll have to keep in mind. Is there a large difference between the two? Would I lose that much horsepower with a 331 over a 347? Is there a difference to how the engine will sound at idle?

Thanks,
Saint
 

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The only difference between the 331 and 347 is the longer stroke of the 347 (3.40" v 3.25"), which means the 347 will need to have shorter pistons and that places the piston ring lands closer to the pin. The thinner ring lands will be more prone to breakage if the engine detonates and there's potentially more chance of piston ring blowby. These will not be issues as long as the engine is carefully built and you don't beat the hell out of it. Those extra 16ci could translate into an extra 16rwhp/16rwtq depending on the build specs.
From the long-term reliability standpoint, the 331 should be more reliable and be more tolerant of forced induction without breakage.
 

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Sorry bullit normally I agree with everything you say but on this on i have to call :bs The 347 will outrun and last every bit as long as a 331, those were old rumors that are no longer issues, I forgot what motors but several factory motors use the same stroke and rod as a 347.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That was going to be my next question. I've been reading whatever articles this POS government computer will let me access, and it seems that there is a huge argument still concerning the 331 vs 347 in terms of wearability on the engine. Granted, when I get back to the states, Jim Wood would probably be the best person to answer the question, but is there still a difference in the longevity of a 331 over a 347? I do plan on this car to be a daily driver so this is something I need to take into consideration. Of course, I also don't want to pass up on an easy 15 hp when the kits are priced exactly the same.

Oh, Will, sorry I didn't answer your body work question before. I have very little body work experience. However, I do know about 5 people in my squadron that are quite adept at body work. One of them actually did his own body work on a 1991 Nissan 240sx and completely did away with the body line that runs the length of the car. Looked really nice, even if it was only painted primer gray.

Saint
 

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The 347 will outrun and last every bit as long as a 331, those were old rumors that are no longer issues
I hope you're right about that. A 347 will definitely outrun a 331 but whether it'll last as long as a 331 probably depends on the owner. Like I said earlier, you probably have to take more care to make sure the engine doesn't detonate if it's a 347.
A friend of mine has just had a supercharged 331 built for his '94 Saleen and is having a N/A 347 built for his '95 GT. The engine builder builds race engines for the Victory powerboat racing team and he was the one who advised my friend to make the supercharged engine a 331 rather than a 347.
 

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Oh, Will, sorry I didn't answer your body work question before. I have very little body work experience. However, I do know about 5 people in my squadron that are quite adept at body work. One of them actually did his own body work on a 1991 Nissan 240sx and completely did away with the body line that runs the length of the car. Looked really nice, even if it was only painted primer gray.

Saint
If you know people who do body work, or don't mind paying a shop to get the car painted etc etc... then you have nothing to worry about. Keep in mind, a paint job makes a car ;) (visually that is...)
 
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