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-- Logan --
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
***** MUSTANG MODS FOR BEGINNERS *****

Hello, to many and all mustang owners of all knowledge bases. This is going to be an opinionated list of “First Mods, or Mod order” as there is no BEST first mod to any car because all goals and budgets are different. It will mainly pertain to the 4.6 2v Mustangs (99-04), however it still has some basis on other similar platforms. Here I will explain what each modification will do and affect real world gains. At the end is a fairly general list of what MOST experinced 'modders' will recommend that provides the best value to stock or near stock cars. I'll try to NOT mention any brand in particular so if you'd like a recommendation for that please PM me for my opinion. I'll be monitoring this thread, so if anybody has questions please feel free to post them.

There are many stickies in which I will be sharing and referring too. I take no credit for coming up with that knowledge only taking the time to research it for your ease. I also ask that you please read these threads as well to further your knowledge on the topics at hand. They can be found here:


I myself was guilty of this several times starting out with my mods on many different cars. Over the years I have watched and learned from those who post in those threads, giving advise to new people. If you own any type of car; muscle, import, dsm, exotic, truck, etc... and you are joining and even posting in car forums that means you are there to share and gain knowledge. Here in the Mustang world, we are one of, if not the biggest contributor to this.

To be honest, once you have purchased your ride the first and most important thing you can ever do is to simply imagine what you want to accomplish by modding your new love. Whether its going to be built for; Drag, Auto-X, car shows, dyno queen, or just a simple daily driver with a little bit more “go” than what it came with. I might have missed one or more, but you get the idea. This is the NUMBER ONE thing to do, as it will determine any and every part you swap, put on, take off, or custom modify.


EXAMPLE: I want my car to be a nasty street car and run low 11s after all said and done in the 1/4. AKA pretty fast but not a money pit drag car
  • STEP 1: lower control arms, full length subframe connectors, 4.10 gears, hand held tuner, and Failsafe wideband for data logging, maybe bolt ons.
  • STEP 2: coil overs in the front, shocks + springs in the rear, 31 spline axles, 31 spline diff, aluminum drive shaft, 15x10 rims w/ 26 or 28" tall slicks
  • STEP 3: Trick Flow 38cc heads, Stage II cams, dyno tune and maybe weight reduction
  • STEP 4: add Nitrous (100-150 shot) using a fog system, upgrade fuel with larger injectors, duel GT pumps, cobra hat

The general consensus for every modification is: “how much is this part going to COST, and is it WORTH IT?" This is ultimately your decision, as it's your money, and your opinion. However there are others who may have done the same work you are about to and feel as if it WAS OR WAS NOT worth it and can explain why.

A good saying when modding a car is- YOU MAY ONLY PICK TWO: Cheap, Fast, or Reliable.

The absolute BEST way to make sure your money is spent wisely is to not to do the same thing twice, DO IT RIGHT NOT TWICE because you changed your mind down the road, here are some things people REGRETTED doing Here are some mods people REGRETTED BUYING: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/239957-mods-you-regret.html. Do your research before you buy. That is what this tread is supposed to do, to help give some a reference point and insight. As I said though, you don't have to listen to anything I say if you don't want to, or don't think I know what I'm talking about, you are entitled to you opinion.


The main three purposes chosen from above, from what I personally have seen, are DRAG, AUTO-X, DAILY DRIVER.



Below is BASIC information on... (yes I even tried to color code things for people)
  • STRENGTH (mods are expensive enough, go to far and you'll be breaking things).
  • ACCELERATION (time to get up and go!)
  • HANDLING (suspension, traction, and over all handling)
  • BOLT ON'S (great for basic do it yourself, but results may be disappointing)
  • LOOKS (it's your car make it look how you want)
  • RECOMMENDATIONS WITH "X" DOLLARS


...​

GENERALLY WE SEE N/A 99-04 GT'S will max out with 300-350 HP... That's with all bolt ons and with ported heads and cams. Which is about as far as you can go without diving into stroking/ boring or upping your compression ratio. With the right suspension and tires you can usually see as low was LOW 12 SECOND 1/4 miles.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/202121-whos-gt-running-12s-n-what-did-you-do.html

GENERALLY WE SEE Boosted 99-04 GT will max out at 350-400 before you strengthen your components, after that THE SKY IS THE LIMIT. With the right tires and a some suspension work you can expect 11 SECOND 1/4 miles on a stock bottom end
.

 

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-- Logan --
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
STRENGTH
To start talking about performance modifications people need to understand that their car has limits and restrictions to progress, well obviously- thats why you are wanting to modify in the first place. Understand what you have in the first place. Here are some specifications on each year:http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/53730-mustang-specifications.html

Cars with 100,000 miles on them are perfectly fine to drive as long as they were taken care of! After buying any used car, the best thing you can do to make sure you have a healthy car is to DO ANY AND ALL FLUID CHANGES RIGHT AWAY. But you also need to know when to stop pushing and adding, or something bad could happen. GENERALLY this is with the ENGINE. So before we proceed lets take a look at basic maintenance, it can be found in this thread (quite well done so please give props to the OP)



Next, you will need to understand that the 2v iron short-block engine in the 99-04 Mustangs will really only handle 400-450 RWHP due to its weakest point. Safely that is, which is around 500 HP at the crank, and while this is DOUBLE the stock numbers from Ford, some want more. A FORGED rotating assembly will help the engine last past the stock capabilities. Now if the story goes that you have already blown your engine, or multiple. Its not worth it to put a stock rotating assembly back into it, trust me- THAT'S WHAT I DID-it cost me ~$2500 as I did the labor myself. When I could have gotten something better for the near the same price and I regret it everyday, not the knowledge I learned but the cost. You're better off buying a used engine or better yet a NEW FORGED Rotating assembly or short block. It'll be worth it in the future! As for the stock 'PI" rotating assembly strength (there are minor specific differences that i will not get into):

  • Size: Iron 4.6L 2v (281 ci)
  • Crank: 8-bolt (1999-Early 2001)// 6-bolt (Late 2001-2004) -- both are good to around 600+ "ish" HP... While it is swappable keep in mind that you'll need to switch the flywheel to match.
  • Rods: Cast Iron H-beam - weak point, good to 400-450 HP -- 4.6 3v's are usually good until 450-500 HP
  • Pistons: Cast Iron - good to 500-550 HP


FUEL , especially if you are deciding to add boost is . Not supplying enough fuel will not only starve your engine of HP but could also harm and burn it up. Getting a higher volume fuel pump and lines with larger injectors is always another good idea to remember doing when going for all out performance.

TRANSMISSION, if you plan on launching hard and banging gears keep this in mind. whether you have an automatic or manual, building your transmission is never a bad idea when wanting to obtain large amounts of HP (500-600+). For a 5 speed I would figure ~ $2000 (I could be off, anybody with accurate numbers please PM me) for you to get your transmission "Built" up to handle a good amount of HP...
Now for you automatic guys, I would recommend a shift kit and tune to make your transmission keep up with a manual AS WELL AS getting it built to handle your power goals (if its under 600 hp it should hold).

REAR END (diff and axles), If you plan on going to the drag strip and want to invest in slicks or drag radials and lower gears don't forget about it or you'll end up having to tow your car home. Switching to a hard material such as chromoly or increasing spline count (and diameter) will help insure that you wont snap your rear end and have to be towed home. New rear end ~ $1000 or cheaper. Many choose to upgrade their stock 8.8 rear end (in 4.6 GTs) with 28 spline axles and differential with a 31 spline versions; Ford chose to use 31 spline in the 03 and 04 Cobras and they hold up great.
 

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-- Logan --
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
ACCELERATION/ E.T. : Greatly improve acceleration and/or top speed​

This is the Most Common of all. People who want to drag race or compete in Auto-X, either in leagues, weekend worrier, or those who just want to look cool doing highway pulls. There are a few areas where most experienced drivers/ modders will agree is the best bang for the buck. These are some of those areas: Boost, final Gear Ratio, Tune

TUNE: To be completely honest, THIS, this should be your FIRST MODIFICATION EVER on pretty much any vehicle. Not only does a tune help access hidden power left behind by manufacturers it also makes the car run better and even improve fuel economy. Also in theory one should do a new tune after each and every modification, many will wait unless they get something that requires it, this makes having a hand held tuner worth having. If planning to tune your car is it also a GREAT idea to invest in a Wideband data logger; some even have fail safes to prevent your engine from detonating, Some hand held tuners have a data logger option if not or wanting a visual of Air to Fuel (A/F) to stay safe is always good. Speaking of that lets talk about how to tune. There are TWO MAIN WAYS to tune (strictly speaking of OBDII cars, much different for EFI or carbureted applications) which are:
  1. Hand Held: These do not require any expensive hard wear and often make it so you don't even need to leave your driveway. Hand held turners, which you can buy for around $400 will usually come with preloaded tunes or can be plugged into any modern computer and download a tune purchased from a tuning company based on what mod's have been done and what your goals are, sent via email. They can also read any codes popping up from warning lights such as "service soon" to "check engine." Sense these are not a "one and done" mod they are nice to keep around for your car as you continue to modify it. KEEP IN MIND that some upgrades such as Superchargers, turbo chargers, and stage 2+ cams, will require a dyno tune and out of range of an email tune. However having a handheld tuner will help if you go to a DYNO because you will almost always be able to save that tune on your turner to have at your disposal.
    .
  2. Dyno Tune: This is the BEST way of tuning a car because you can see what exactly is going on at all times. This in turn allows for the best tune (assuming you take it to a reputable and knowledgeable/ skilled tuner or shop). Some mods require a dyno tune because a hand held tuner can't tell you whats going on for you do a base tune off of. DYNO tunes are a "one and done" tune, as you will generally pay for 3 runs on the dyno for the tuner to perfect the tune. If you don't have a hand held tuner and continue modifying or want to to back to your stock tune you will need to pay for even more DYNO runs and tune. ~ $300-500 is what I've seen.

...​


GEARS :(rear ratio) Probably my favorite of upgrades. While it doesn't actually improve HP, it does greatly affect performance. The stock final gear ratio for a 99-04 Mustang GT is 3.27 used in the 8.8" rear end. The lower the numeric number the "taller" the gear, the higher the numeric number the "lower" the gear. Taller gears generally equate out to better highway mileage and the ability to "run" the gear out "longer" allowing for a potential higher top end speed... Lower gears generally are better for acceleration as well as better city mileage (stop/go). The context of the final drive ratio (rear end), it's the number of turns the drive shaft makes per turn of the axle. How it works: on a 3.27:1 rear gear, the drive shaft will turn 3.27 times for every one revolution of the axle/wheels. The most popular gear change is from 3.27 to 3.73 or 4.10 for N/A cars. There are other gear ratio to choose from for the ford 8.8 rear end (3.55, 3.90, 4.30, 4.56).

Moving on to a lower rear gear will change the way your car overall acceleration, top speed, and mpg. A 4.10 gear will have 41 teeth on the ring and 10 on the pinion giving 41/10 or 4.10:1. A 3.73 will have 41 teeth on the ring and 11 on the pinion respectively, giving 41/11 or 3.73:1. ALSO keep in mind that the total tire hight and transmission model in your car will also affect the overall ratio.

Keep in mind that when adding more HP to a car, "less" gear (taller, aka smaller numerically) is needed to help with acceleration, and can even hinder "top end" performance, because you may run into traction issues from wheel spin, so upgraded suspension may need to come soon. A taller tire (larger diameter) will raise your overall gear (to a smaller numerical gear) as well as vica versa with a shorter tire (smaller diameter) This may help you determine which ratio is best for you based on the RPM/ transmission/ tire size/ speeds you drive at most:



PURCHASE: Generally you can find a set of Gears for ~$150-200.

INSTALL: You can choose to install them yourself with this guide http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/113892-gear-install-write-up.html or have a mechanic do it for anywhere from $150-600 (I personally was quoted $400-600 by reputible shops in my area, some say thats high but $400 IMO is a good price for my area)


Now for some fun...
**Credit to DSGpony**
As for Gears: the sophisticated chart will show you what gears you might want based on reaction.

3.27= :facepalm:

3.55= :(

3.73= :)

4.10= :cool:

4.30= :eek:

4.56= :shitbrick


...​


Boost: Considered by MANY to be the number 1 best application of money towards HP/Torque/ Performance. Please understand that a stock engine block and rotating assembly can only handle so much.


  1. Supercharger- This is the most popular of boost applications amongst the Mustang crowd. It unlike N2O is a constant application and generally more predictable. There are different types of Superchargers, found here http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/105402-forced-induction-faqs-2-contd.html, all will greatly improve low end power and acceleration with no lag to get into boost like you do with turbo/s, here is more info http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/166475-people-who-want-go-supercharger-read.html. There is a sticky on how to part a kit together for a very reasonable price here, http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...75-how-build-affordable-supercharger-kit.html , otherwise most kits are ~$3500-5000. These can be done without supporting mods in low boost applications. It will also typically will top out stock rotating assemblies with supporting parts such as an inter/after cooler, ported heads, cams, and exhaust. ***** This will require a DYNO TUNE.
    .
  2. Turbo chargers- Turbo or Turbo's (twin) IMO are ultimately the best form of boost if you are looking for the biggest HP gains. They don't have to be refiled and are street legal unlike Nitrous. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...rbocharger-works-making-efficient-system.html . While there is "LAG" until the turbo/s spool up, they don't take HP away from the engine like a supercharger does, AND they can provide more boost ending up in more power. Their downfall lies in cost and maintenance. COST, not only do you have to buy the turbo, but you will also have to buy components to make it work unlike a supercharger that you can just slap on. These include a blow off valve, and turbo manifolds, it also has many more moving parts than a supercharger and if something breaks it will cost more for repair. They also cost more to maintain and more work is required as you will need to change the oil going to the turbo more often. With that being said a proper turbo set up (that I have seen) would run ~ $4000-7000. It also will typically will top out stock rotating assemblies with supporting parts such as an inter/after cooler, ported heads, cams, and exhaust ***** This will require a DYNO TUNE.
    .
  3. Nitrous- While it is the cheapest option of obtaining boost, it is the most dangerous and w/o the correct QUALITY PARTS or TUNE, will almost always result in a blown motor. The parts recommended and explanations can be found her http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/143926-new-edge-nitrous-question-look-no-further.html With the proper application and set up it can deliver a great performance gain. Many users have gained anywhere from .5 to 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 mile on a daily driven car with a basic kit. Most will consider a 100-150 shot to be the max on a stock motor (refering to the amount of HP gained, whether its flywheel or rwhp is dependent on company). A complete system will run $700-1200 in general, of course the bigger you go the more money is involved. Here is a thread that goes into more detail about which parts to buy http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/190536-nitrous-install-pics-qs-info.html . Please keep in mind that nitrous is NOT allowed on the street, and will need to be refilled when used up. ***** This will require a DYNO TUNE.




What next From here, I personally would say start looking at SUSPENSION AND/OR STRENGTH upgrades (strengthening your engine and trans if you opted the boost). Then I would move on to possibly a better set or ported HEADS ~$1500-2300 and also re-ground or aftermarket CAMS ~$1000.
.
 

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-- Logan --
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)

This is the "hidden" mod that everybody generally will over look and forget about even though it is one of the most important. There is no reason to upgrade your HP/TQ numbers if there is no way of applying that power to the ground. Even a Mustang GT with no hp gains can in fact take off up to around 2 seconds less in the 1/4 mile just by adding some lower gears, tune, and suspension!!For the 99-04 GT many people will recommend the following suspension upgrades for anything from daily driver to a track car:

TIRES: A good set of tires can make a world of difference. From daily driving, drag, and auto-x. They all have different materials used. Drag Radials and slicks are made of a soft compound and soft sidewalls to provide the best grip possible, however this means that have a low life span. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/122591-tire-size-recommendations-help-make-sticky.html . Auto X tires are made of a soft compound (generally not as soft as a drag radial) but have a firm sidewall to help with cornering, they also have low life span. Due to these tires not lasting very long its a good idea to get a second set of rim and tires if you are serious about your times at the track. Tires can shave 1/2 second or more on the 1/4 mile or auto-x track as it lets you put the power you have to use.

SPRINGS: there are many spring rates and heights designed for different applications. In most cases softer rear springs are for drag and stiffer are for cornering improvements. There are also lowering springs that still improve handling which is what most people on these forums will do... you also have the option of adding coilover kit to for better control. Some even decide to cut the existing stock springs to save money, http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/267834-installing-coil-springs-how.html . Cost ~ $200-350 (all 4)

SHOCKS/ STRUTS: It is best if these are done together to as to not offset the front and rear. Driver and Passenger sides should ALWAYS match. Some shocks/ struts are adjustable allowing you to further more customize how your car handles and rides. Shocks/ Struts should also match up with spring rates. Just like springs, there are kits to convert many shock and struts into coil-overs. How to swap your own set up http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/79867-strut-replacement-dummies.html . Cost $50-150 each quadrent

COIL-OVER: This is "generally" the best option as far as upgrading your springs and shocks, but there are are a few cases where people decide to use coilovers only in the front or rear. "Coil-over" is short for "coil spring over strut;" it consists of a shock absorber with a coil spring encircling it. Some coil-overs allow adjustment of ride height and stiffness, using a simple threaded spring perch similar to a nut, allowing for you to have more control of how your car feels to you. How to install your new coil-overs http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/162691-coil-over-install-pics.html . Cost ~ $1000-1700 for all of the equipment needed for all sides and corners.

CAST/CAMBER PLATES AND BUMP STEER AND BALL JOINTS: These really are NOT a NECESSITY but are really CONVENIENT to have. Cast and Camber Plates will allow for easier proper alignment, as the stock set up is not meant to accommodate a suspension drop of more than 1-1.5" ~ $150-250. Bump steer will improve steering when going over pot holes and complement x2/ x5 Ball Joints . ~$150-200. x2 Ball Joints will re-align your suspension geometry by raising the spindle ~ $100-150.

LOWER/ UPPER CONTROL ARMS: LOWER- Reduces excessive wheel hop and improve the traction and handling. Lowers are usually preferred first over uppers unless you are doing road racing. However see what rules your league has, some only allow to have one or the other. ~ $150-250 or adjustable (complement coil overs) for $350
UPPER - Improves cornering, and makes steering more predicable, but also helps with traction. ~ $150-250

SUB FRAME CONNECTORS: By eliminating chassis flex, none of your Mustang's power will be wasted when your chassis flexes under load. That means all of your Mustang's power will also go straight to the pavement. Pretty easy mod if you know anybody with a welder and greatly improves handling and traction. ~ $200

WEIGHT REDUCTION: Weight reduction isnt a "suspension part" specifically but does help with launches, acceleration, and handling. Some of it is even free or very cheap to do. Removing unneeded parts or trading them out for a lighter version will help with the above.


MORE YOU CAN DO: If you plan on doing a more competitive scenario with your car you might look into things such as a
Tubular K member
Tubular A arms
Torque Bar
Panhard Bar
Sway bars (front/ rear)
Strut tower brace (front/ rear)

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/155074-how-install-torque-box-reinforcements.html
 

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-- Logan --
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
BOLT ON'S aka SUPPORTING MODS

First and for most, I myself have a few bolt ons. However IMHO while i did get them at 1/3 retail by finding sales or lightly used parts, I still feel as though they were a GIANT WASTE OF MONEY if they are your first mods.​


In all reality the gains per money spent on bolt ons is horrific, they just don't justify cost in the long run. You can spend$3000 on bolt ons and have 260-270 or buy a supercharger and have 330 hp. Why do people buy them you ask? Because of the false information and rumors floating around on how much they really improve your car's performance. But, before we dive on into that, lets discuss what makes a bolt-on a "bolt-on," Here is another Thread for a deep look and understanding


There is no true definition of a "bolt-on" but many will classify it as a car part that:
  • is relatively cheap (in comparison to the Car or Engine cost)
  • only takes a few hours to install
  • doesn't require a mechanical degree, I.E. easy to install and/ or comes w/ directions
  • doesn't require draining any fluids**
  • doesn't require a tune to make the car run without blowing up
  • doesn't require a specialty tool
Now again, keep in mind this is debatable as there is no true definition, but its pretty much describes them all, and rules out things people do no consider bolt ons. I put ** next to fluids because adding something like an aluminum radiator or higher thermostat IMO is a bolt on.
More common bolt ons are: Cold Air Intake, larger diameter Throttle Body, larger bore Intake Plenum, even a lower Intake Manifold, etc... Most of the advertised HP gains are after a TUNE, so you might as well just get it tuned and not buy the part for a while as there will be a very small difference.
  • These in all honesty may get your 220 RWHP (260 @ the crank) Mustang to 250-260 RWHP ...
  • With a Tune and Exhaust up to around 260-270 RWHP.
  • By then you're into you're bolt ons for anywhere between ~ $2000-2500+ for a very little gain when you could almost have a super charger and be over 300RWHP.


Exhaust
Most people will admit however Exhaust, while being a bolt on, will in fact be worth its time and money. As in Long Tube Headers, High Flow Catted or O/R Mid Pipe, and a true Catback Exhaust. This will consist of Manifolds or Headers, Mid-pipe (Y-X-H), and a Cat-back (mufflers and piping).

HEADERS: Generally headers are going to be your best option here. However the stock manifolds on the 99-04 GT are. pretty decent.
  • Manifolds: Heavier, generally are less efficient in flow, but are cheap
  • Short Tube: lightest, flow a little better than manifolds, can use original mid-pipe (most will agree that if you're going to go through the trouble of installing short tubes, you might as well step up to long tubes) ~ $300-500 HP gains of ~ 5 HP
  • Long Tube: BEST flow, best sound, does require a shorty mid pipe, most work to install ~ $600-1000 HP gains of ~ 10 HP


MID-PIPE: This believe it or not, will play a large roll in how loud your car is and the sound tone it makes. These also help will flow and will add power. High Flow Catted mid-pipes are the best option as they are street legal and can pass emmissions and still flow great. Off Road mid-pipes will flow a little better and be louder but are supposed to only be used at the track. MID-PIPE WILL NEED TO BE MATCHED UP WITH WHAT LENGTH OF HEADERS/ MANIFOLDS ARE ON THE CAR. ~ $150-300 HP gains of ~ 5 HP
  • X-pipe- louder, more power, "pop" and raspy sounding, SOUNDS BEST WITH STRAIGHT THROUGH MUFFLERS
    .
  • H-pipe- loud (usually not as loud as a x-pipe), more power than stock, deep tone (similar to an old muscle car) SOUNDS BEST WITH CHAMBERED MUFFLERS


CATBACK/ MUFFLERS: Catback exhaust or just simple Mufflers are generally where most people start with modifications. Which in fact isn't a bad place to start, but it is quite expensive compared to the gains you will see.
  • Straight Through- (EXAMPLE: LM1&2 or M80 or Stingers) generally cylinder in shape, the loudest type of muffler as there is less baffling, more of a raspy sound signature, matches better with X-pipe
    .
  • Chambered- (EXAMPLE: Flowmaster) generally a rouned rectangular shape, deep tone, muffler isnt as loud but focuses on sound quality, matches better with H-pipe




However, Bolt-on's have their place, they are great "supporting mods" which is what i prefer to call them.
However if you do have the need to buy them they can provide great knowledge insight for people new to cars that choose to install them by themselves.
 

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-- Logan --
Joined
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
LOOKS​

Looks are simply a matter of opinions and tastes. For instance I wanted my car to be a little difference than others, so its Dark Satin Green, w/ ALL black wheels (no chrome lip), I tinted the windows and tail lights (look at your state laws before you do this), put a black shorty antenna on, and took off my spoiler. Soon I'll get tinted Headlights w/ HID bulbs. so far I'm out only the cost of my rims (which i would have gotten anyway) and the cost of window tint and VHT nightshade for my tail lights and I think my car looks pretty good.

Looks can improve or cost Performance points depending on what you do. For instance, my staggered 17x9 and 17x10.5 rims allowed me to get wider tires and my lowering springs handle better than stock around corners. However my friend who put a full sound system in his car including 2 subs, and put chrome parts all over his engine has actually weighed down his car. This is nothing to worry about unless you are going for all out performance... because in that aspect just strip the car.

Many will tell you, including me, don't put a body kit on a mustang (unless its a true 2000 cobra r), don't put badges that don't belong on the car (if you do an engine swap or put all cobra parts on it or both sure maybe cobra badges) because your just going to look silly to people who really know what you have. All that most will do is the "Mach 1" grill delete and spoiler, which should have came with the car anyway, same style grill as the previous body but thats just an opinion. "acceptable other changes" to the majority of mustang owners (AGAIN if you don't care what they think its your car so do what you want) are cobra or cowl hoods, cobra bumpers haven't really seen people do much else the sn95 style that people like as a majority.

Again this is complete up to you, but please don't go extreme with the make over, there is a reason ford made it look this way, and there is a reason so many where sold even though the Chevy F-body camaro performed better.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/188196-how-smoke-tint-tail-lights.html
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/270653-15-chin-spoiler-03-04-cobra-bumper-cover.html
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/154788-change-interior-lights-leds-pics.html
 

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-- Logan --
Joined
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
RECOMMENDATIONS

From what I have learned over the years, I probably would have changed a few things I modified on my car, or at least the order I did them. If I could do it all again I'd start like this:

Start by looking for any repairs and changing all of the fluids to make sure your car is running properly FIRST AND FOREMOST.

Mods:
1) Hand held tuner
2) Rear Gears - fit to your ultimate goal
3) Full length subframe connectors (weld in)
4) Lower control arms
6) Short throw shifter
7) Performance tires, and possibly new rims to accommodate wider tiers
8) Exhaust (you can start with just a cat-back but the mid-pipe and headers make a large difference as well)

Those are modifications recommended to just about EVERYBODY for any application, that are farely easy to install, and WITHOUT wasting money in the future... beyond that you will want to customize your car to your specifications and ultimate goal.




Thank you for reading, if there's any questions or concerns please feel free to PM me.

- Logan
 

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US Air Force (retired)
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You've got a lot of work to do, and unfortunately, first mods are driven a lot by past experience and opinion. Be careful of the links you post. The link to Ford Mustang maintenance is missing some information. It doesn't show that the 4.6L Windsor ('99 to mid-01) owner's manual says to use 5 quarts of oil not 6. It also doesn't include the two T-3650 transmissions. Model year '01 had a .68:1 fifth (about the same as a T-45). MY 2002-2004 had a .62:1 fifth. I only mention this because it can influence the selection of a rearend gear for daily drivers which most agree should be a first mod.
 

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-- Logan --
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2,202 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
You've got a lot of work to do, and unfortunately, first mods are driven a lot by past experience and opinion. Be careful of the links you post. The link to Ford Mustang maintenance is missing some information. It doesn't show that the 4.6L Windsor ('99 to mid-01) owner's manual says to use 5 quarts of only not 6. It also doesn't include the two T-3650 transmissions. Model year '01 had a .68:1 fifth (about the same as a T-45). MY 2002-2004 had a .62:1 fifth. I only mention this because it can influence the selection of a rearend gear for daily drivers which most agree should be a first mod.
eagle you are correct... however this is mostly a guide to show where money is best spent- it is NOT a guide on what exact parts to buy so that was ok IMO to share
 

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Banned from AFM member!
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Hopefully this will cut down on the day after day of the same threads.
Not a chance. Good effort though, DSG. I'll check it out when you're complete.
 

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I'm Ham Sandwich, and I approve this thread
 

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i hope it cuts down on that crap. i stuck it btw. if the end result is awe striking there is a good chance ill put this in all the modular forums.
 

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thanks rabbit
Stickied already! How about that. Unlike another forum I can think of where members post well thought out, informative threads and they are then ignored by the "moderators" and lost forever.
 

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-- Logan --
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Discussion Starter #17
i hope it cuts down on that crap. i stuck it btw. if the end result is awe striking there is a good chance ill put this in all the modular forums.
Thank you! I'll try and be as detailed as I can w/o telling people which brands to buy

Stickied already! How about that. Unlike another forum I can think of where members post well thought out, informative threads and they are then ignored by the "moderators" and lost forever.
haha yeah!!!! first sticky for me :)
i told you this is a much better forum
 

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your welcome! now get to work!! :spank :lol
 

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No rush man, enjoy your Saturday. This is the internet it comes second.

Sent from my Vortex using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
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