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Down for the count
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2,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I'm curious as to what you all with your PPRVs deleted do when starting your vehicle. I have deleted my PPRV, the check valve in the bottom of the basket, and the check valve in the nipple of my aftermarket pump, all for the sake of better flow. I accomplished my goal with an 80% duty cycle at WOT, but it seems to have come at a price.

My tuner and I cannot get rid of this hot start issue so far, and I am beginning to wonder if this is just the nature of the beast.

When starting, I always prime the key twice and make sure the fuel pump engages both times. When cold, or immediately after shut down, this is enough to get the car to start right up. However, when the car sits from between 10-45 minutes, it is rough to start. Even after priming the key, it will not catch and fire.

For the last week, I have been feathering the gas peddle while cranking on hot starts after priming, and it has fired up great every time.

With all of that said, is this the norm for these cars? What is your starting procedure with your PPRV delete? Thanks for the input! :)
 

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King Trashmouth
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21,886 Posts
My tuner and I cannot get rid of this hot start issue so far, and I am beginning to wonder if this is just the nature of the beast.
I too noticed an issue with cranking after the car was hot.

I'm running dual GT pumps with a PPRV delete.

I really don't even need a prime to start, but if I do, it's only one quick prime.

Hot starts were another issue. Those required modulation of the pedal to get it to fire correctly. This is directly due to the lambda desired at start vs ECT. I asked for my tuner to change it with the next revision, and it did the trick.

See this thread-
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/300299-difficulty-starting-after-hot-shutdown.html


Also, your office kind of sucks. I think you need better chairs. :shiftyeyes
 

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C6Z's & ZL1's are afraid
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3,444 Posts

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The Little 2v That Could
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1,623 Posts
This is the hose you want when doing a PPRV delete. Highest certification fully submersible, unlike the lower rated Gates Line. There was one guy I talked to and said he had to keep swapping out the Gates cause of pinholes developing.
Dayco Fuel Hose 80160: Upgrade with the best Fuel Hose at Advance Auto Parts
And this is how I did mine lol, no worries about curling it up, no bullshit, just a straight shot into the line.
 

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Down for the count
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2,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thank you for all of the input, guys. Reps for all.

I definitely think something is amiss after hearing all of your procedures.

WickedSnake00; said:
I too noticed an issue with cranking after the car was hot.

I'm running dual GT pumps with a PPRV delete.

I really don't even need a prime to start, but if I do, it's only one quick prime.

Hot starts were another issue. Those required modulation of the pedal to get it to fire correctly. This is directly due to the lambda desired at start vs ECT. I asked for my tuner to change it with the next revision, and it did the trick.

See this thread-
Difficulty Starting After Hot Shutdown


Also, your office kind of sucks. I think you need better chairs. :shiftyeyes
Wicked, I suspected something along the lines of what you posted. I told Joe I believed it was the startup AFR initially, and I think that may have thrown him on the wrong track unless he interpreted what I said. According the cliffyk's post, it is the cranking AFR that needs to be adjusted. I emailed Joe with the correction and gave him a link to your thread. Hopefully it'll help point things in the right direction!

Also, I assure you, the chairs are fine. Why don't you have a seat?


---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

This is the hose you want when doing a PPRV delete. Highest certification fully submersible, unlike the lower rated Gates Line. There was one guy I talked to and said he had to keep swapping out the Gates cause of pinholes developing.
Dayco Fuel Hose 80160: Upgrade with the best Fuel Hose at Advance Auto Parts
And this is how I did mine lol, no worries about curling it up, no bullshit, just a straight shot into the line.
I did mine the same way, and also used the Dayco hose. I left my hose much longer; like 10". I did a very long sweeping loop to keep it from kinking. I would have loved to do as short of a piece as you, but I don't see how you kept it from kinking. :headscratcher:
 

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The Little 2v That Could
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1,623 Posts
I did mine the same way, and also used the Dayco hose. I left my hose much longer; like 10". I did a very long sweeping loop to keep it from kinking. I would have loved to do as short of a piece as you, but I don't see how you kept it from kinking. :headscratcher:
I think that picture is actually before I was finished trimming it down to length. It was impossible for it to kink because the fuel hat inlet/barb was literally hitting the fuel pump outlet (within the hose). Since I did it so short, I wouldn't have enough room/play from the hat-basket to unclip the basket from the fuel tank once installed, so I broke the fuel basket mounting clips lol.
 

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Premium Member
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1,906 Posts
I also have trouble on occasion with hot starts. Maybe fuel vapor buildup in the rails. It is not consistant. If it acts up i wait about 30 seconds then give it a go. Price we pay, and a small one, for custom builds.
 

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Down for the count
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2,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I think that picture is actually before I was finished trimming it down to length. It was impossible for it to kink because the fuel hat inlet/barb was literally hitting the fuel pump outlet (within the hose). Since I did it so short, I wouldn't have enough room/play from the hat-basket to unclip the basket from the fuel tank once installed, so I broke the fuel basket mounting clips lol.
I see! It definitely won't kink like that lol. Did the basket seem to want to remain pretty stationary without the clips? You are running the stock GT tank, correct?

I have no intentions of changing mine as long as my FPDC stays around 80% and the pressure is good. But God forbid if it should break, I will not be going into that tank a 3rd time lol.

I also have trouble on occasion with hot starts. Maybe fuel vapor buildup in the rails. It is not consistant. If it acts up i wait about 30 seconds then give it a go. Price we pay, and a small one, for custom builds.
Ah, I see. Both your and Srt10ram's fueling systems should be almost identical to mine, since I relied on your build threads when swapping my pump. Did you try to trouble shoot this with Joe any?

Honestly, at this point, it really doesn't bother me a whole lot. If I'm not doing any damage to the car, and I can get it to consistently start without throwing any codes, I will be alright. If there is a simple fix, like the one Wicked referenced cliffyk talking about in the tune, I want to try that avenue. If it doesn't work, then oh well. But if it does, that knowledge needs to be put out there more for people struggling with this in the future.
 

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Registered
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593 Posts
I've chased this same problem around for a while. I've run PPRV, no PPRV, and now have dual PPRV's; one on each pump. The PPRV helps slightly, but I think is it is a tuning issue. I took my car back to my tuner and he just said it is a FI 2v with cams therefore it will idle weird some times. Tuners are not infallible.
 
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