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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally buying my springs, but I'd like to know the difference and yalls opinions on the race and sport springs, I already know which shocks and c/c plates I'm getting so this should come all together in about a week
 

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Race are higher rate, sport are more for looks. Unless you're pushing in the twisties, I'd go for the sports.
 

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with the h and r sport springs do you need caster camber plates? doesn't it only drop it an 1.5 inch
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oh dear christ ya you would need cc plates lol, id be all screwed up without em, im debating between the j&m and MM plates tho, i dunno if i wanna spend over 400 on just plates and springs on americanmuscle... anyone have any experience with j&m?
 

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<----has h&r supersports and MM c/c plates. shop said it was easy to get into spec with the 4 bolt...

need to get a new pic, that was 4x4 and old rims
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
lol, ya i think the h&r super sports look pretty dang good, fricken new shocks are gonna kill me tho. how much did you pay for your alignment, ive never had to get one
 

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I paid 150. But it's a 3 year plan where i can go as much as i want within that three year period. I still need to get shocks/struts soon so i know ill be going again sometime. The plan can be transferred to up to two cars if end up selling mine and getting something else, or it can be transferred to a new owner of the vehicle.
 

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with the h and r sport springs do you need caster camber plates? doesn't it only drop it an 1.5 inch
If you take any corner aggressively ever, you need CC plates at stock ride height, much less with any amount of drop. I don't understand why people freak out and try to make every argument they can to get out of buying 'em - Maximum Motorsports makes the best, and they're only $200. If $200 makes or breaks you, you probably need to find a different hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
01VB, are you still running stock struts and shocks? i was thinkin about doin that for a while cuz mine still feel great
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
oof, ok so its done, 427 dollars later, my H&R SS springs and MM c/c plates are on their way, these should be a joy to install, NOT lol
 

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oof, ok so its done, 427 dollars later, my H&R SS springs and MM c/c plates are on their way, these should be a joy to install, NOT lol
Oh - talk to MM, they have a spring installation tool for like $15 that makes the fronts WAY easier.

And the CC plates are ludicrously easy to install. The only issue is that you'll need to drill one hole in your shock tower.
 

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01VB, are you still running stock struts and shocks? i was thinkin about doin that for a while cuz mine still feel great
Yes, i still have my stock struts/ shocks. As of right now they have 52k on them, and about 3k of those are with the lowering springs.

I am going to upgrade them soon though.

BTW, like reverend said. Install yourself, if you can find a buddy with some good tools and knowledge it will be much easier. My buddy's dad is a car guru, so a 12 of some yuengling was all he needed and we went to town.

Good fun learning experience as well.
 

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ok well i did not know about the 1.5 inch drop. ik that whoever aligns your car is going to have fun. i am in school to become an auto tech and lowered cars or jacked up trucks are a pain, because the specs that you have are for the stock ride height and do not work, so you need to do it by trial and error using some knowledge. this is the only reason i have been skeptical on buying lowering spirings, and because i have to drive my car in the winter.
 

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If you get the CC plates, find a shop that will do custom alignment settings.

In the drive between installation and the alignment shop, just jam the strut tops as back as they'll go (maximum caster), and just try to get the camber the same on both sides. For the way I drive, I have mine all the way in (maximum negative camber).

For caster - get as much positive as you can that's the same on both sides. You should be able to get around 4 degrees.

For camber - depends on how aggressively you corner. The more aggressive you are, the more negative you'll want. Start with stock, and if you see outside tire wear, dial in more negative.

For toe - I suggest straight up if you drag race, slight toe-in for a DD, and slight toe-out for best turn-in response. I personally run straight up, as mine is both a DD and an autocrosser.
 

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ya well you don't want to run too much negative camber, because then you will get inside tire wear.
 

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ya well you don't want to run too much negative camber, because then you will get inside tire wear.
I only disagree with this because you just can't get that much negative camber if you're running a stock k-member. I'm maxed out on the foxbody, and I'd be surprised if I had anything over 1 degree negative.

Like I said, your best camber setting is going to depend on how you drive. Watch your tire wear, and adjust accordingly. If you don't want to wait until the tire starts wearing, get an instant read thermometer, and watch your tire temps. Hotter areas are seeing more wear, so adjust either your camber or pressure accordingly.
 

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that makes sense. i suppose. well that is good to know then that you really cant screw your camber way up! i mean one degree difference between sides would cause a pull but if you get them even then you shouldnt mess anything up.
 

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hey check out somewhere like firestone for your alignment, because i paid 130 for mine last year and its for a lifetime alignment and i can switch it over to new cars too
 
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