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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok well I have not posted on here in forever. I have been busy with life and car has not had the priority. Well I have 3 sets of heads and am planning to port a set for my car. I currently have all mods listed in my signature.

I have ported a ton of lower intakes and uppers. I have read hours on porting heads but am not sure on specific tricks for a 3.8 split port head.

I am planning on porting the intakes to gasket size about a half inch to inch into the port. I was then thinking of just taking a 80 grit sanding roll and running through the inside of port lightly making sure to take any casting imperfections out. Is 80 grit coarse enough to get good fuel atomization? I was then going to run a 80 grit in the bowl and just lightly smooth out and maybe round out the valve guide in the bowl. I am not trying to get super carried away because I am just trying to gain a few extra ponies and not spend a ton of money on some awesome heads. I will end the heads with a good valve job from a local engine builder who builds dirt track engines so I figured they could give me a good "race" valve job on the heads.

Thanks.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Ok well I have not posted on here in forever. I have been busy with life and car has not had the priority. Well I have 3 sets of heads and am planning to port a set for my car. I currently have all mods listed in my signature.

I have ported a ton of lower intakes and uppers. I have read hours on porting heads but am not sure on specific tricks for a 3.8 split port head.

I am planning on porting the intakes to gasket size about a half inch to inch into the port. I was then thinking of just taking a 80 grit sanding roll and running through the inside of port lightly making sure to take any casting imperfections out. Is 80 grit coarse enough to get good fuel atomization? I was then going to run a 80 grit in the bowl and just lightly smooth out and maybe round out the valve guide in the bowl. I am not trying to get super carried away because I am just trying to gain a few extra ponies and not spend a ton of money on some awesome heads. I will end the heads with a good valve job from a local engine builder who builds dirt track engines so I figured they could give me a good "race" valve job on the heads.

Thanks.
Do not,i repeat! Do not! Knick the seat where the seals go
You will run the head


Chill out, its the internet bro!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok are you talking the valve seat or the valve guide seals because those are on outside of head. Valve seat I know you can't knick that.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Ok are you talking the valve seat or the valve guide seals because those are on outside of head. Valve seat I know you can't knick that.
Valve seat
Its really easy to knick them though

Chill out, its the internet bro!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am going to have them cut the seats which is included in the valve job they are going to clean the valves and cut the face unless I get replacement ones, they are going to cut the valve seats and lap in the new valves. I am probably going to give them the springs to just put on also so the valves stay in the head.

But as of anyone knowing nothing special trick wise in the bowl just cleaning up?

Also is a 80 grit sanding bit coarse enough for the intake side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I know what you mean basically SSMS is about one of the best places but I can't afford over $1000 for heads. Too much money. I figured with my home port job I might lose like 10 or 15 hp from teh SSMS heads but it has to be an improvement over stock just because when I look in my ported lower intake and see the major obstructions because my heads are not gasket matched that has to cause turbulence. Plus a good valve job has to improve power which I am leaving up to the professionals. haha.

On that note, do you guys think I will be able to get by on stock injectors or will I have to upgrade? I have a comp max street strip cam 218/226 duration and .500" lift, windstar upper intake, ported lower with IMRC and EGR deleted, CAI, LTs, True Duals, and now the ported heads.

I have tried using a injector calculator but it does not make sense really haha. If so anyone have a PN on the SVT focus pump? I figured I might use a SVT focus pump and was thinking of 39 lb injectors if I could find a cheap used set not sure if I ever will run a power adder and if I could spend say $50 more for the 39lbs I would be set for some decent power should I choose to add some sort of power adder down the road.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Yeah I know what you mean basically SSMS is about one of the best places but I can't afford over $1000 for heads. Too much money. I figured with my home port job I might lose like 10 or 15 hp from teh SSMS heads but it has to be an improvement over stock just because when I look in my ported lower intake and see the major obstructions because my heads are not gasket matched that has to cause turbulence. Plus a good valve job has to improve power which I am leaving up to the professionals. haha.

On that note, do you guys think I will be able to get by on stock injectors or will I have to upgrade? I have a comp max street strip cam 218/226 duration and .500" lift, windstar upper intake, ported lower with IMRC and EGR deleted, CAI, LTs, True Duals, and now the ported heads.

I have tried using a injector calculator but it does not make sense really haha. If so anyone have a PN on the SVT focus pump? I figured I might use a SVT focus pump and was thinking of 39 lb injectors if I could find a cheap used set not sure if I ever will run a power adder and if I could spend say $50 more for the 39lbs I would be set for some decent power should I choose to add some sort of power adder down the road.
I'll text you the part number when I get home

Chill out, its the internet bro!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok sweet thanks.

Ok so looks like this for the build.

Ported heads. They will have intake gasket matched and exhaust will be d port. I am going to smooth out the bowls a little and round the valve guides. Then I will be having the valves cut and a "performance" valve seat cut. I will be running comp springs and GT retainers for my cam and these get me the correct installed height for spring tensions.

I am going to need to get larger injectors, and fuel pump as well along with a tune.
 

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D port is the wrong approach on splitport heads. You will loose velocity exiting the head. Keep the port it's original shape and just smooth it out NO WOLLERING!!! As for the bowls just clean that up as well and knock off sharp edges. I would not touch the bowls personally though. On the intake side just hit the short runner where the lip is where you bolt on the lower. To port intake correctlly you need a flow bench so that each port flow consistant, other wise you will benefit the most from bigger exhaust valves and a multi angle valve job.

To be honest I'd go with the comp 918's, roller rockers, cam in the .580-.600 lift, and a 218/224 duration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok thanks. I have to think now whether or not it will be worth the risk of touching the bowls. I just don't want to get the head done and put it on and have something not work. I have 3 sets of heads so if I mess up it is not the end of the world, I would like to sell a set of heads to get some cash for the project but not sure whether to sell stock heads or port them.

And I knew I did not want to just make the exhaust ports huge to the gasket because that will reduce velocity.

How much power do you think I would gain or loose roughly by not touching the bowls?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you don't mind me asking where did you get your heads done and how much did it cost?

I have thought of getting a set from SSMS because they seem like a great head but even for their stage 2 heads it is like $1500 which is a ton of money. I need to call the machine shop and see how much it would be for the valve job. I also need to measure my guides to check for wear before I do that so I can get a good estimate. That way I can see what it will cost to do vs just buying a complete head or having some place port mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well Update for the heads.

I decided to push the limit a little. I read up some more on porting tips and techniques. I decided to try some of them. I went with the easiest tips that seem to carry to every head. Here is what I did so far on the heads.

For the intake, I gasket matched them about an inch in. I did not touch the round ports after that until the bowl. The other port I went on the side where the bolt hole sticks in and cut that a little bit with a sanding bit making sure not to cut off too much. I did that to give the air a straighter shot in the oblong ports or long runners. In the bowl I simply used a used sanding disc and smoothed out the guide making a smooth transition. I then smoothed the short side radius into the bottom of the integrated valve seat. Read that this works very well in transitioning air into the cylinder. I did not go too extreme just rounded it up until I had a little bit of metal between the bottom of the pressed in seat and the head.

For the exhaust, I did not really do a hole lot. I simply smoothed the hole port out. I smoothed out the short side radius like I did on the intakes. I am going to polish up the exhaust port. I got to clean the head a little so I can check for missed spots then I will post up some pics.

I figured these things sounded like in all the literature about head porting to be the same and work on almost every head and not be too difficult. I am hoping the heads work out well and would assume they will flow better than stock, they won't be the best out there but better at least.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Well Update for the heads.

I decided to push the limit a little. I read up some more on porting tips and techniques. I decided to try some of them. I went with the easiest tips that seem to carry to every head. Here is what I did so far on the heads.

For the intake, I gasket matched them about an inch in. I did not touch the round ports after that until the bowl. The other port I went on the side where the bolt hole sticks in and cut that a little bit with a sanding bit making sure not to cut off too much. I did that to give the air a straighter shot in the oblong ports or long runners. In the bowl I simply used a used sanding disc and smoothed out the guide making a smooth transition. I then smoothed the short side radius into the bottom of the integrated valve seat. Read that this works very well in transitioning air into the cylinder. I did not go too extreme just rounded it up until I had a little bit of metal between the bottom of the pressed in seat and the head.

For the exhaust, I did not really do a hole lot. I simply smoothed the hole port out. I smoothed out the short side radius like I did on the intakes. I am going to polish up the exhaust port. I got to clean the head a little so I can check for missed spots then I will post up some pics.

I figured these things sounded like in all the literature about head porting to be the same and work on almost every head and not be too difficult. I am hoping the heads work out well and would assume they will flow better than stock, they won't be the best out there but better at least.
I would have ported a little more but I understand its your first time
What cam are you going with?

Chill out, its the internet bro!
 

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Ok thanks. I have to think now whether or not it will be worth the risk of touching the bowls. I just don't want to get the head done and put it on and have something not work. I have 3 sets of heads so if I mess up it is not the end of the world, I would like to sell a set of heads to get some cash for the project but not sure whether to sell stock heads or port them.

And I knew I did not want to just make the exhaust ports huge to the gasket because that will reduce velocity.

How much power do you think I would gain or loose roughly by not touching the bowls?
Maybe a bit late to talk on this, but for the bowls you dont really want to take away that much material. The reason being any material you remove from it lowers your compression ratio = lost power. Now, taking away the sharp edges is good in the fact that you will be taking away edges that can cause detonation. So thats why people say to just lightly remove anything that is rough and smooth it out a little bit, but leave it at that.
 

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Maybe a bit late to talk on this, but for the bowls you dont really want to take away that much material. The reason being any material you remove from it lowers your compression ratio = lost power. Now, taking away the sharp edges is good in the fact that you will be taking away edges that can cause detonation. So thats why people say to just lightly remove anything that is rough and smooth it out a little bit, but leave it at that.
You're referring to the combustion chambers, not the bowls.
 
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