why would he want to drop the engine out of the car, and turn a 4-6 hour job into a 8-12 hour job? plus have to drain coolant, unhook all the sensors, and vacuum lines, and all that BS?
use a engine cradle, to hold the motor up when you unbolt the K member, and drop that thing, once you drop it, EVERYTHING is right there, easy as can be.
basic rundown of the install is:
disconnect battery (something metal hits that starter it will scare the ****
out of you and isnt good for the car either)
remove mid pipe
remove front wheels
remove brake calipers
remover cotter pin, and castle nut on tie rod ends, and smack them with a hammer and punch
unbolt sway bar end links
unbolt steering shaft, and slide off
unbolt P/S rack, pull bolts out the back, pull rack forward, and ziptie out of the way
remove ABS sensor wires
support A arms with a jack of some sort
with A arm supported unbolt the shock from the hub
let jack down, and let A arm hang, repeat on the other side
support motor with either a engine crain or engine cradle.
support K member with jack.
unbolt the the motor mounts
unbolt the 8 K member bolts
slowly let jack down and remove K member
then go to work swapping the headers. i suggest removing the motor mounts, gives you a little extra room, and its only 3 bolts on each one, takes 5 seconds.
the passenger headers will go right on, no problems
the driver header may decide to give you a little trouble. reason for this is you have to hook the EGR up before putting the header on, and sometimes wants to give trouble. best if you use 2 people, align the tubes with a pry bar, while the other starts the bolts.
also i would recommend using stage 8 locking header bolts. also a great time to do a tubular K member, and coilovers.
Also I think if you have some knowledge of what your doing it should take like 5-10 hours.