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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, as some of you saw, I have to make an emergency road trip to Northern California, and leave tomorrow morning for a Saturday Funeral.

I'm changing my oil, installing new brake pads, new battery, changing the fuel filter, and painting the calipers while I'm at it.

Anyways, here's the issue:

My freaking wheel lug nuts won't come off!!! I'm using a 13/16's socket wrench like I always do, but none of my lug nuts will budge at all!!! What do I do?

Also, I've never changed battery cables before, I need to do my negative cable, how would you go about this?

So I'm going to change my oil, and hope to see some good advice because I'm stuck without those wheels coming off; brake pads are what I need the most!

Okay, GO!

Please and thank you in advance for all your help. You guys rock. :)
 

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Do you have an impact gun? And if your using a socket wrench, put a long bar on it and pull. It will give you substantial leverage to take them off. I would recommend using anti seize when you put them back on too.
 

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Although they wont budge, rock the top and bottom of the wheel. Kick it if you have to. It has worked for me in the past.

Are you changing the whole cable or just the terminals?
 

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You do know righty tighty lefty loosey, right. Just askin...Are you making sure the car is still on the ground while trying to break the lug nuts loose? Do you have a impact available? If so use it for the lug nuts. As far as replacing the negative cable it is so simple. Just unbolt the old and reattach the new.
 

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Impact or 4 way lug wrench or cheater pipe to go on your rachet that your using. If you can try n get your foot on your wrench and break them lose that way.
 

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might want to find a metric 19 i believe to a better fit, less chance of roundin one off.

If no air impact find a 6ft piece of pipe from lowes etc and use that, it will break it loose that way. Put the bar on the 4 way or ratchet and put it so you can walk into the pipe and use your whole body to push on it, more leverage and less chance of falling if you are jumping or pulling up on the bar
 

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Scares me that a guy can't figure out how to get his lug nuts loose and he's changing his brake pads.
 

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Like said, impact wrench (but if you had one, you wouldn't have this question) or cheater bar. If you still can't get it, take it to a tire place and ask them to break them lose w/ their impact wrench.
 

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might want to find a metric 19 i believe to a better fit, less chance of roundin one off.

If no air impact find a 6ft piece of pipe from lowes etc and use that, it will break it loose that way. Put the bar on the 4 way or ratchet and put it so you can walk into the pipe and use your whole body to push on it, more leverage and less chance of falling if you are jumping or pulling up on the bar
I'm pretty sure the 13/16ths would be a 21 as a 3/4 is a 19mm.

As everyone else has said, use a cheater pipe if there's no air impact available.

Battery cables should be easy if you're just doing the ends. Snip the old ones off, strip the insulation off the wires and just put the new ends on.
 

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Get a socket and wrench and stand on it and bounce slowly up and down and they should eventually break free or break the wrench.
 

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might want to find a metric 19 i believe to a better fit, less chance of roundin one off.

If no air impact find a 6ft piece of pipe from lowes etc and use that, it will break it loose that way. Put the bar on the 4 way or ratchet and put it so you can walk into the pipe and use your whole body to push on it, more leverage and less chance of falling if you are jumping or pulling up on the bar
A 19 won't fit. If you're using metric, it's a 21. But a 13/16 fits better.


But as he said, a cheater bar does wonders.
 

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My tire iron is a breaker bar, fairly easy to break them loose. But the impact gun at discount had trouble getting them off(theirs was shitty), took ~5-6 seconds just to break each loose.
 

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leverage my man! I second the 21mm socket size. If the chrome cap comes off that fits over the lug, use a 20mm. (had to do this a few times)

Do you have the special tool needed for the rear callipers? they are not just push in, you need a socket tool that you push and turn at the same time (hard to do by yourself, need a second set of hands to hold the calliper straight). You can get it at napa, but it might be hard to find. I bought one last week, but it was the "last" one they were gonna carry. The package says something about its for lincons and other cars. The "universal" socket they sell at advanced and auto zone does NOT work. However, they should rent out a brake "kit" that does include the needed socket.

/fyi
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Scares me that a guy can't figure out how to get his lug nuts loose and he's changing his brake pads.
I kind of take offense to that lol. I'm not ASE certified, but I'm not retarded. They honestly were just really freakin' tight on there.

Sorry I didn't update by the way. I finished up today and went and had some beer and pizza with a buddy, and just got home.

I ended up walking over to advanced auto and just buying a new tire iron. That didn't work at first try. So, I took just a tiiiiiiiny bit of WD40, sprayed the edges of the lug nuts and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Went back and sure enough, they came off. It took two grown ass men to get them off, but we did it.

I got started on my work pretty late today so all I got done was an oil change, fuel filter change, and then I reeeally scrubbed the inside of the wheels while I had them off (My garage is 60' from the house and has no electricity; when the sun goes down, I have to stop). It was also really overcast today, so I lost my light inside of the garage at around 7, even though it wasn't supposed to be dark for another 40-50 minutes.

I'm not going to leave till Tuesday now because I still have a **** ton of stuff to do around my house.

Tomorrow I'll change my front brake pads, bleed the system, and replace the battery/neg cable and we'll be good to go.

When replacing the negative cable tomorrow, I have this plastic braiding that goes around both the positive and negative cables from the battery to the starter underneath the car. Do I just cut that off or do I need to get another braiding cover to go around the cables?

Also, I'm having a seriously hard time getting the old terminals off...the hardware is rusted and stripped. Any ideas?

Ladies and Gentleman, the Original 540 CCA Battery, Cables, and Terminals, installed by the factory in May of 2002. 106,285 miles worth of starts and she still cranks. :). That's Motorcraft parts for ya.

See what I mean though? ^^^^
This feels like the lug nuts all over again...
 

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Grab a flat head screw driver and pry it apart where the bolt goes through it. It's just gonna take a little muscle to get them off.
 

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honestly, if you're going from colorado to the carolinas i would fly. you'd save a ton of money when comparing how many tanks of gas you'd go through on the trip. For example, when i go from gettysburg to boston i use about 2 tanks of gas (at the time was like $40 ish each) but when i fly from BWI to logan it only costs $48 (and then some fees so like $53). AND it only takes like half the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Let me tell you, a flight from DIA to SFO was almost $200 more expensive than driving, even with California gas at 4.40+ a gallon for 91 octane.

I got the terminal off by the way. I tried a flathead screwdriver, but the damn rusted out bolt kept it in place...so I used a grinder. Hahaha!

I'm taking a quick break right now, but she should be all done here in a little bit.
 
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