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Hey,
So I was wondering... I am looking to put some nice fluids in my car. Its an 89 5.0 LX with 79,000 on it so far and I want to make sure I'm getting premium stuff to keep it alive and healthy :)
This thought came to me as I was looking at oil and I was thinking some Royal Purple 5w20. Any thoughts and suggestions would be helpful to me about oil and or any other fluids you can think of that would be good for me to invest in!
Thanks for the help

Mike
 

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Oil is oil. I owned a car with over 200,000 miles on it and I never put anything in it other than cheap service grade oil. It is more important to change your oil regularly than it is to put really expensive oil in it. Synthetic oil can find leaks that regular oil doesn't because it doesn't swell rubber seals as much and it is lighter weight making it easier to get past the seals.
 

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Also I think 5x20 is to thin, you'd be better off going to Dallas and asking someone for some sugar water. That's about as thick as 5x20 LOL. Maybe 10x30 is safer. I mean I have never seen or heard of anyone using that low of oil but hey, it's your ride. Just helping that's all. I also beleive the guy above me, your better off going to your parts store and snagging a bottle of Engine "Gunk"(Cleaner), and 5 bottles of10x30 Valvoline or Quaker State and doing your oil change. That marketing **** you see of TV is what it is. If that's the case, they would have made oil for cars or 100,000 miles the dawn of day when cars came out.
 

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AMSOIL or ROYAL PURPLE for good stuff if u are gonna use a regular oil in my opinion castrol gtx it a great/non expensive oil.
oil does make a differnce if u change it every 3 thousand miles then any oil should be okay but if u have ever opened up an engine up that has used junk oil and not changed it every 3 thousand miles there will be nasty black sludge all over....

if u would like to be safe anf have peice of mind i would say get good oil not nessasserly royal purple unless u dont mind spending 50 dollars for an oil change but at least a good regular oil maybe even some castrol senthitc blend whick is in my car now for break in then i will be using AMSOIL
 

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i have heard that once you start using synthetic your not suppose to go back to conventional......is this true and why
 

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I dunno, but after using synthetic, I'll never use conventional again. It lubricates better, heats up faster, but stays cooler easier, seems to me that it makes things smoother all through the power band.

Maybe It's all in my head, but that's how it felt when I changed ;)
 

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i use royal purple in the trans and rear since they don't get changed very often, but i use mobil 1 synthetic in the motor ( i picked up an honest 1/10th and 1 mph ) by using it, i know it doesn't seem like much but when my old f/i capri was running 13.0s @ 101 for weeks and weeks and after switching to mobil 1 ( i was running conventional fluids in the motor/trans and rear and i only changed to synthetic oil in the motor ) it would consistently go 12.90s @ 102 and that's good enough for me, when asked what my car ran 12s sounds much much better then 13s
 

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I mainly use the Wal-Mart brand full synthetic, it is like $13 for 5 quarts. In my older cars I use the cheapest at the time "high mileage" synthetic blends as they are supposed to have some seal conditioners.

Choice of oil is like a religion for some people. Some based on facts, some based on nothing but a hunch or marketing material. To each his own. For every person that uses brand X and has proof it is outstanding, there is another person that has the same results with brand Y.

Bob Is The Oil Guy forums are a great place if you want to read about or discuss oil and lubrication and clear up some myths about oils like what to use for engine break-in, changing between dino and synthetic, wide vs narrow viscosity ranges, different additives, what leaks more and why etc...
 

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I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic. It has worked for me so I dont change.
 

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Oil is oil. I owned a car with over 200,000 miles on it and I never put anything in it other than cheap service grade oil. It is more important to change your oil regularly than it is to put really expensive oil in it. Synthetic oil can find leaks that regular oil doesn't because it doesn't swell rubber seals as much and it is lighter weight making it easier to get past the seals.
This is a myth--if there is any additional leaks it isn't because of the seals not swelling (high mileage oils actually cause too mucn swelling), but because of the engine running cleaner and exposing stuff that was gunked up in the first place. While it is important to change your oil, it's more important to make sure you have good filtration. There is documented proof of a Mack that went 409,000 miles without an oil change AMSOIL - 409,000-Mile Oil Drain Interval Mack Engine Teardown. He had the AMSOIL dual bypass filter system on his truck and would change the filters on a regular interval. He would also do the oil analysis so he could track trends in engine/oil wear to make sure it was still safe to run the oil.

I started running AMSOIL in a 92 Explorer we had when it was at about the 120,000 mile mark. It had its' share of oil consumption issues such as the valve covers and rear main seal. I ran the engine flush through before I changed oil, ran about 6 months, ran the flush through again, then changed to the oil that I left in there for 1 year. The oil consumption/leaking actually reduced dramatically--to the point that I only had to add about 1qt between oil changes (or at the 8-9mo mark).

It also doesn't matter if you run conventional or synthetic---oil weight is oil weight.

When I became an AMSOIL dealer I was skeptical of the performance gains that I had read about--so I did what any good gearhead would do, I put my 96 F-150 on the dyno (the Mustang was laid up by then:(). What I came back with was a gain of almost 6hp and 9ft/lb in peak to peak numbers. I noticed that the truck ran smoother right away and I got about 1.5 miles to the gallon better on the drive back to Fargo.

Even this winter I noticed a difference with my Bronco--I had to put a new valve body in the E4OD and that is when I switched the tranny over. There wasn't near as much of a drag at -20* as there was before I switched it over--and the old fluid wasn't bad either. While I was at it I switched my power steering over--again there wasn't near the effort needed to turn the wheel first thing in the morning.

While I am an AMSOIL dealer and biased as such I will say this, it does matter what you run, and you get what you pay for--especially if you're a little hard on things:D. Do your homework and make the decision that best suits you.
 

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Wow man! 5-20 is not gonna be too well for your ride. the 5-20 is for newer fords and hondas. I really like the quaker state Q full synthetic but i know people who wouldn't put anything in their car but mobil 1. honestly I love the quaker state. i use 10w-30, but the 5w-30 is a little lighter and considered a more "all weather" oil. I use 10-30 because my car has some miles on it so the thicker stuff seals just a bit better on all the seals.
 

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So does that Amsol filter system also filter out fuel and carbon from blow-by, acid formed in the oil during cold starts from moisture and antifreeze? Does it replenish the additives that should be in the oil to limit foaming, reduce acids, and help with friction (anti wear additives)? What about the gradual build up of stuff that is smaller than the filter systems can remove? Take a look at a normal person oil analysis of their normal everyday car. Those things ARE in the oil.

Comment on sludge...
Sludge build up in an engine is mainly caused by the by-products of combustion blow-by combining with the oil, not from the oil itself. Plain old oil has nothing to combat sludge but contains nitrogen additives (detergent) to "surround" the sludge and prevent it from connecting to other small pieces of sludge and forming larger pieces of sludge. This sludge stays suspended in the oil until you change it. The amount of blow-by and the amount of thermal cycles determines how long that detergent will last.

Comment on acid formation...
Same as with sludge, plain old oil has nothing to prevent or reduce acids. Acids are formed from moisture generated by burning fuel. This moisture forms acids in the oil. Oil has an additive (sodium hydroxides) to nuetralize this acid. Depending on how often you start and stop and how long you drive depends on how long the additive will last.

Regardless of what type of oil you have, these additves get depleted and they are required.

I know you also stated that changing the oil is important but the study you reference with someone that did not change the oil seems to contradict your statement. No one should ever go even 1/10 of the miles of that test so what does that test really prove? What advantage does one oil have over another on regular change intervals like 3500-10000. That truck in the study probably does not have the same running habits of a car and referencing that and trying to compare it to how cars are driven makes no sense at all. Unless we all some advanced filter systems that can pull out moisture and eliminate the blow-by products so the detergents would not be depleted, we'd be fine. Instead, we are stuck changing our oil at regular intervals to replenish the additives. If we had those filters installed, we would also get by with the cheapest oil money could buy because if it at least meets the service grade rating, it will work fine.
 

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I had an old buddy that uses Amsoil and I have to say it seems to hold up pretty darn well.
 

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Nolife, judging by the cars you own (91 bought new in 91--cool:rockon) and the good, rational argument you made, you've obviously have been aroud the block once or twice. With that being said, I don't want to get into a pissing contest with you-I just want a chance for a rebuttal.

Instead of rewriting test data I'm going to link to it--I know it's the easy way out but I really don't feel like typing that much tonight. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1971.pdf The answers to your questions are in there.

I know that our Mustangs and daily drivers don't share the same driving conditions as an over-the-road truck, I just wanted to show that it does make a difference on the quality of oil you use-not just to drop it more frequently because of using cheap oil.

--I might not have been able to get my 90GT new, but it was only 4yrs old when I got it:D
 

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I've never done any research on oil or any studies myself, I've never even sent a sample off to be analyzed. Only reading what others have done. My background is in the nuclear field which has nothing at all to do with car engines and oil. Cars are only my hobby and my only source of information is what I read or learn from others and do myself. Not having any background in that area, I am skeptical about marketing and studies (directly or indirectly sponsored by the company) or from someone that also sells the product or profits from it. Maybe that is not fair way for me to judge.

Your only rebuttal needs to be, don't listen to nolife because he doesn't know squat about the oil industry, he just doesn't trust anyone! ;)
 
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